The car has been sitting for about a month cause I replaced the radiator and fuel pump. I put the new pump in (walbro 255), I put gas in the tank, I turn the key, hear the pump pime, car wont start, and threw a cel code 15 (ignition output signal).

Little background on the car. It used to be auto but was swapped to manual before I bought it. I never had any issues with any of that, but while the car was sitting this past month I decided to put the key in one day to make sure the battery wasn't dead. Well when I did that...I couldn't get the key back out of the ignition. The only way I could get it out was to disconnect the battery. I read a few threads about that and they all were saying the starter ground must be loose or of come off. Well I checked that and the starter ground is fine. Checked it with a volt meter and it has connectivity to body ground. I happened to notice though that my gauge cluster is no longer saying the car is in park. (when swapped from auto to manual the car has to think it's in park in order to start). I took the dash apart and checked the black/white wire that was spliced by the previous owner to trick the car into thinking it's in park. That wire was still connected and good. I can not for the life of me figure out why my car no longer thinks it's in park.

That's just one of the problems. The other is the code #15 i just got after trying to start the car for the first time since ^that problem came up.

I checked the distributor and the ignition coil tests that my oem honda shop manual says to do all checked out except for one. The ohm test between the primary and secondary was out of spec, but not by much. (spec is not over 14k, mine was 16k). Everything else with the distributor and it's subsequent wiring checked out ok.

I don't know if these two problems are connected, but I didn't touch ANY wiring while the car had been sitting the past month. I don't see why this is happening and can not for the life of me figure out how to fix it. Anybody please help me figure this out. I want nothing more than to be able to drive my car again. I will continue to run more tests on things as I try to figure this out. If I found out anything new along the way I will inform you guys about what that might be. Thanks

 

the ecu has to receive a signal that the distributor is turning or the fuel pump wont run, check your fuses

 

Pull the console so you can access the Automatic Gear position switch plug, it would have been "jumped" for both the starter circuit and the park signal to ign. switch, sounds like the park signal has come loose.

Better yet, disable the ign. key lock completely at the ign. switch. 94

 

Well the fuel pump is working, I can hear it priming. I don't know why I didn't check any fuses last night. I was just so frustrated I didn't feel like messing with it anymore. I'll check all the fuses in both boxes here in a bit. Thanks

Console is out.The big blk/wht wire is jumped, but that's it. You say to disable the ign key lock completely at the ignition...how do I go about doing that?

 

the pump will prime when you first turn on the key, but if the computer thinks the car isnt running after that,it shuts off the fuel pump, this is a safety feature, this is so the fuel pump doesn't continue to run when the engine is off, I'm no sure on this one but most hondas with a distributor the tach signal to let the ecu know the engine is turning

 

The black/white is the starter lead, on a standard there would be a starter relay there controlled buy the Clutch Interlock Switch, which you obviously do not have, try grounding the pink lead in the A/T Gear Position Switch plug, you will hear a solenoid "click" up by the ign. switch, remove that solenoid.

Another system that is used is a cable system, simply the A/T shifter pushes a encased cable at the shifet end, it pushes a "rod" in the ign. switch housing, remove it. 94

 

Ah ok. Thanks
Alright, I'll try and do that tomorrow. Thanks

I took my distributor apart today and took the igniter down to autozone to be tested. Out of the 6 or 7 tests the machine ran on it, it only passed 1. So looks like my igniter is the reason it wont start. Now idk if that would cause the key/park issue, but I'll find out. My buddy has a spare igniter i'm picking up tomorrow

 

Ok so update. I messed with the wiring a bit more and found out that the Ylw/red wire needs to be hooked up to the Grn/wht wire in the 10 pin connecter in order for it to think it's in park and let me take my key out. This IS how it was before I had all these problems, idk how that connection got messed up, but I fixed the connection between the two and it's working again.
See, thinks it's in park =]


I still have yet to start the car. I'm trying to get a hold of a new Ignition control module (Igniter). I will post an update once I get one and it ether starts or doesn't. Thanks for the help so far uys

 

=]!!!!!!!!!!!...! She lives! I went to the junkyard today and got an igniter out of an obd1 early 90's accord, took it to autozone and it tested good, put it in and she fired right up. I'm happy now. Thanks for the help guys