so, 3 weeks back i brought a jdm b20b motor and been having a few issues...

1. below 4 grand the car is sluggish and still dont feel like full power after 4k

2. the idle is always off, sometimes low as 400-700rpm (almost bogging out)

3. the idle is extremely high 1200-2000 but then bogs below normal idle

4. it will idle fine for about 20-30sec then drop way to low

5. while im decelerating in gear i get little pops out the exhaust or while im at idle

6. at random times but not often it sounds like a STI a little (mis-firing) i think but goes away

a little info, its a 2000 integra with a p8r head b20b & a ls ecu Besides the LS intake and exhaust its stock. I changed the spark plugs with NGK IRIDIUM plugs and bosch wires also did oil change with filter and after market cone intake. I was gonna start looking for a manual crv (b20) ECU but didnt wanna start replacing stuff i dont need to as i heard the LS ecu is just fine from forums and research online.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED
CANT KEEP DRIVING IT LIKE THIS
THANKS

 

have you checked for codes? regardless of an illuminated mil.
and yes, the p75 ecu will be fine. may need to bump up fuel pressure a bit.
but check the codes. if you have misfire codes, check your valve lash. matter of fact, check the lash regardless. b20's are notorious for burning exhaust valves due to lack of clearance

 

yea i have no CEL on dash and when i use a scanner it cant communicate with the ecu. what is a valve lash ?
i was thinking of getting the ecu chipped for the b20 because I'm lost at this moment.

 

Check Ecu,Check Timing,Iacv,Tps....

Goodluck bro

 

check all fuses and replace as necessary. then, run the scanner again.
valve lash is the clearance between the cam lobe and the cam follower whenever the corresponding valve is closed fully. if not enough clearance is left, a valve will hang open and quickly burn. the need for adjustment is due to (on the exhaust side) the valve face pounding into the valve seat in the head constantly. eventually the face wears deeper and deeper into the seat. that wear is what lowers the clearance between the cam lobe and cam follower. on the intake side, the opposite usually occurs. carbon build up on the valve face positions the face further away from the seat, increasing clearance between the cam follower and cam lobe.

for reasons that i haven't found a solid answer to, b20's, or at least crv's, require valve lash to be checked/adjusted about twice as frequently as an integra. however, your engine wasn't out of a crv.
still definitely suspect though

 

thank you both, so since im not that mechanical when i take it to a shop what should i say i need done ? what will i most likely be spending ? should i try to find a place that specifically deals with honda/acura ? if yes are there any in nyc ? or any shop will due ?

 

it shouldn't matter if they are honda specific. as long as they employ competent technicians. just provide them with all the information you have. if they know what they're doing, they should be able to figure out the problem within the allotted 1 hour diag time. if there are multiple issues, it could take a bit longer

 

OMG thanks so much im gonna do it tomor, i really thought it was i needed a b20 edu...any more info is greatly appreciated ! ! !

 

rethinking this, you're probably (almost definitely) running lean. since you are running the p8r head. that, and/or your timing may be off, or, as i'd mentioned previously, valve lash.

i would certainly start by retrieving the codes. so you need to figure out why the scanner will not communicate. the data link connector power sometimes runs on the same circuit as the cig lighter. check all fuses and replace as necessary. then, try scanning again.
if you end up having misfire codes, first, check ignition timing. if that is spot on, i would either suspect that you're running too lean, or the valve lash is incorrectly set. check the valve lash first, since that should be done regardless.
i would then go with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. bump pressure up to 50psi and see if that helps. with the p8r, you will need more fuel. if increasing the pressure doesn't suffice, in all likelihood, with that p8r head, you will need a tuned ecm.
you should be able to run your own ecm. it would just need to be chipped for the engine you have in there.

in this case, you would benefit from taking the car to a shop that deals with modified cars and tuning. best if they are fairly adept to hondas as well.
sorry. i know what i said earlier, but i wasn't taking into account the fact that you were running the p8r. that changes things significantly

 

ok now just to find a decent priced tuning shop in nyc lol but thanks a lot bro

 

Bump, having same problem, not idle, but poping at idle and deceleration and sluggish I'm low rpm... Have b20z