First i'll say that the ign timing is not set, it's in the middle(the dizzy) like when i got the car. Have yet to put the t-belt cover on and set it what happens is: The car sputters/hesitates pretty much after 6K rpms (could it be pinging or knocking ?). you can feel it, it pops(backfire) and feels a little low on power any advice would be great !

will be staying out of vtec for the time being till i sort this out car is great other wise

 

Any check engine lights?
Checked cam timing?

 

no CEL's cam timing is dead on this just started today. this is seriously annoying it will do it down low once n awhile too.

 

Check your distributor. Your rotor might be coming loose. Those damn set screws are stupid as hell and I don't know WHY honda designed them to be held with a set screw instead of just having a flat face on the rotor shaft for it to pop onto like pretty much every other car on the face of the earth.

 

do you mean the 3 12mm bolts that you mess with to adv/rtd it ? i had the cap off once that's about it(the black thing that the wires start at) im pretty cluelees with car electrics

 

I mean under the distributor cap.

The rotor is under the distributor cap. There are 3 small philips screws that hold the black cap on. Underneath that, is your rotor. Check to see if it wobbles. My car had this EXACT same issue a while back. It would have horrible hesitation and backfire at higher rpm, and would do it at lower rpm at times too. Took off the cap and the rotor's set screw was damn near about to fall off.

 

That black thing my fingers are on wobbles. and in the 2nd pic those 2 screws were tight and so is the 3rd on the other side. got that running risch prob 100% fixed but now this happens ?

 

So the round thing in the middle is what he's talking about. The thing that spins. The 2 screws your pointing at in the second pic are for the coil. Don't start breaking into that stuff if you don't have to. You may have a cam timing issue, and its also possible that your ignition timing is off. When you go into vtec the computer adjusts your timing and if its already close to the threshold the adjustment it makes can push it over the edge causing it to seem you have an issue due to vtec or related to it at least. I suggest putting the dizzy back and adjusting the ignition timing and see if that helps. Then go from there.

 

I have to put the lower cover on first(was dumb and left it off) the mechanical timing is on forsure(but will dbl check) the ign timing im going to have to learn it I have a timing light. but what i don't get is that: 1 this never happend when the car ran rich. 2,does it down low sometimes will dissconet the vtec solinoid and see if it still does it up top. what screws was M4XWELL talking about I can't find them if those are the coil ones I found.

 

Screw for the rotor is on the shaft that the rotor (that center piece) is attached to.

Also, your rotor looks pretty worn out. That metal plate on it should be smooth on its edge. Yours look like half of it has been ground down or something.

How do the metal posts inside your distributor cap look like? is there any metal flakes inside the cap?

Does that rotor (the middle piece that spins) wobble?

To access the screw, rotate the distributor till you can see the screw from the side. (near where your index finger is on the first picture

 

Screw was tight rotor doesn't wobble. But my posts look like they were chopped in half lol(unless they are supposed to be half a cylinder ?) and yes there's metal flakes/tiny shavings nothing big but you wouln't want to blow in it(the cap)

 

They should look like a half cylinder. Flat side should be nice and flat, with sharp edges. Metal flakes is bad though. I would replace your cap and rotor. Those metal flakes could be causing your misfiring problem. Your rotor looks kinda gnarly too.

 

To replace the rotor just undo that screw correct ? and what are my options can i use an obd2 gsr cap+rotor



can i use the rotor from my 99dx ?

 

Scratch that new dizzy idea. have pics of posts

 

I don't think that second one would work it says in the description it's for the LS engine, and honestly, I would never trust a distributor that cheap.

The caps are the same, but i don't know if the rotors are. They have different OEM part numbers.

Why not just go to the local parts store and buy one? They're pretty cheap


Just saw your new pics. You need a new cap and rotor. Go to the parts store and buy a cap and rotor for your year integra.

 

Ya i missed where it said ls. what do you think about the posts ? they look ok now that you said how they should.

 

Your rotor and cap are trashed as far as I care. The posts have notches worn in them , and your rotor's brass plate is worn out too. You also have brass dust from the rotor sprayed all over the inside of the distributor cap.

I'll bet once you replace the cap and rotor the engine will run fine again.

 

ok so the cap can be from any obd1 integra. but the rotor may/is different for the vtec ones will replace both regradless.

 

i agree with m4xwellmurd3r. i had a old cap on my dizzy with a micoscopic crack that caused my ls to miss spudder and back fire. just replace your cap and rotor.

 

Are those MSD blaster things worth it or just stay oem honda ? sounds like we've found the problem, thanks guys ! now just need to decide which to buy

 

Cap can be either OBD1 or OBD2 GSR (not LS)
Rotor must be OBD1 GSR (not LS)

Not sure if the OBD2 GSR rotor is the same as the OBD1, so to be safe

Go to your parts store

And tell them you need a cap and rotor for a 1994 Acura Integra GSR

Stay honda OEM. No point in upgrading the ignition system on a stock car. Even on a modified car, the honda ignition system is up to the task.

 

Ordered an OEM cap+rotor. i don't trust the parts store brands around here. and my acura dealer is over an hour away.

 

sounds good. post up an update once the parts are installed.


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Ok so it was cold today(0c) went to start the car revved it a bit(under 2.5K) thing was doing that sputtering/poping like crazy. also st first when i weant to back out of the garage it stalled/dies just like that did it a few times after to. idles fine more or less.

 

Thats because your rotor and cap are fried and it's arcing the spark internally. I wouldn't start it up till you get a new cap and rotor installed