So here's the run down of most of it...

I swapped a K20a2 into my 1997 civic. The car hasn't started yet, my buddy and I have tried almost everything and we are starting to run out of ideas. The car cranks but doesn't fire up, the fuel pump primes and there is pressure in the line. No telling if the injectors are firing or not(we are guessing not) . We are getting no spark, even though everything is hooked up. We have checked the fuses and the main relay, but are stuck as far as not getting any spark or fuel injection. Is there something missing? The following is a list of parts we used that might be affecting start up. The car has been sitting for 6 months because we had to wait on parts from the mainland (I live in Hawaii). We are going crazy trying to find out what is wrong with the car. *note* the car wasn't starting with the stock D16 before we started the swap. *note*

rywire tuck harness
stock ecu w/ hybrid racing immobilizer delete kit
rywire ecu harness
custom starter wire and alternator wire (wire that goes from the fuse box under the hood to the battery is the original wire from the old harness)
optima battery rated at 450 cca

Could a bad ignition switch be the culprit? (any way of checking if its bad or not?)

Thanks in advance for any replies!!!

 

This is a really limited amount of information. You need to determine if the injectors are firing. If you have a test light, pull off one of the injector clips and probe the positive side of the clip, and while one of you is cranking see if the light pulses. This would indicate if you're getting power to the injectors or not. My guess is that you're not.

Can you post exactly what wiring setup you purchased, both the tuck harness and conversion harness?

Edit: Just saw that it wasn't starting with the single cam in it. Have you tested the main relay? That's almost always the cause of non starts.

 

we have tested the main relay and everything is fine, it opens and closes circuits as it should. I purchased both the conversion harness and the tuck harness for the car.

 

there are so many things that could be causing this.

It could be the ECU and immobilizer, it could be the tuck harness.

It could be a bad crank sensor or intake cam sensor .. There are 3 or 4 sensors that will stop the ignition during startup is something is off.

The fact that it didn't start before makes is even more complicated because it could be something withink the stock fuse box and main relay.

If you can borrow a kpro from someone, I would try this first to eliminate the bad ECU theory.

next I would start unplugging sensors one by one and trying to see if the car will start.

I would ask rywire if its possible for the harness to be mailed back and checked

but what I need to ask here is the following.

When you had the single cam engine in the car, did it still crank and no starting? or no starting at all?

 

We replaced the Crank Position Sensor, so we don't think its that.

What are the 3-4 sensors that can stop the ignition?

Borrowing K-pro from a friend isn't an option for the fact that I don't know anyone running it in their car. Is there a way to test an ecu? (besides trying to find a running RSX and swapping ECUs)

Where does the main relay connect to the fuse box? (which wires)

When the car had the single cam in it (and the battery had juice) the car would crank but not start.

-Thanks for all the input BTW guys...

 

My guess is that this right here is going to be the bottom of the issue. But first we have to figure out a few more things.

Do you know that the k20a2 was running prior to this?

Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to ACC position?

Use this pinout >http://www.csn.ky/showthread.php?235...RB-ECU-pin-out, and with a test light, make sure that the ECU is getting power into the ECU on pins 2, 3, as well as check continuity on your grounds on pins 4, 5 on PLUG A.

Speaking of grounds, do you have engine grounds hooked up?

 

yes, I agree. The fact that it didnt run before but also cranked leads me to believe it could be anything.. to broad to trouble shoot online because it could be so many things.

Afterall, the harnesses use existing stock connections for the fuse and relay boxes to communicate.

My advice at this point is to call this guy

SparkksRacing
Conversion-Harness
Wiring and Electrical
808-896-6585


he sells his own harness that you didn;t buy but call him anyway and ask him to come over and help you get it running, he lives in one of the islands. He is good guy so I am sure he should be able to help you.

it could be not related to your kswap or maybe it is but what are the chances before and after the car is not starting but it is indeed cranking?

 

The k20a2 was ordered from hmotorsonline.com so it came on a pallet from the mainland, a compression test was ran on it before it was shipped out here and everything was fine.

The fuel pump DOES prime when the key is turned to ACC.

I have multiple grounds; valve cover, front and back of the transmission, intake manifold.

I was testing some of the pins from the ECU, some things I found was

E7 is supposed to get 12v but it only gets .7v

A2 and A3 are getting 12v.

I'm gonna be working on the car tomorrow to see what else i can find out and run some tests.

I forgot to add that I pulled out the alarm i had installed from best buy a couple years back.

It was an old viper alarm, but everything is hooked back up the way it used to be. (but that could be the problem)

I will definitely be giving sparkracing a call, I will keep you guys updated.

Thanks again guys.

 

No problem! You'll get it figured out!

Hmotors is pretty reliable so I doubt the problem is there.

When is E7 getting that voltage (.7)? IGN on, or IGN off?

Did the stock motor not start after you removed the alarm, or was it pulled out when you did the swap? At what point/what happened that resulted in the stock motor not starting?

Can you show me how you wired the immobilizer as well?

 

if you try to start a car with stock ECU, (assuming your immobizer is not working right ) , I believe you still get to crank the engine but coils do not work so we might be onto something here.

Alarm people are known to mess OEM wiring up so this could be it.

 

Good luck w/ the k-swap
Hope u get it running soon

 

E7 is getting .7v when the ignition is off, when it is supposed to be getting 12v with the ignition off.

I pulled the alarm off when we put in the new engine. The point when the stock motor stopped starting was about 1 month before we started the swap (about 6 months ago. I know its been a while, being in the military has some set backs, but I chose this life.)

I wired the immobilizer exactly how Hybrid-racing showed, put the pins in the correct way (unlocking and locking the pins in the E connector) and tapping into the power and ground.

To be honest, I'm thinking about buying k-pro just to see if its the ECU/immobilizer (but its hella expensive haha)

I will keep you guys updated as always, and once again, thanks for all the input.

 

running kpro will unlock an easy 20whp over the stock ECU so its worth it. Also Kpro used to be $1000 retail but hondata dropped the price to $690 retail, something to think about

 

of course, its probably not the ECU that is at fault here, start with replacing ECU and if that doesn't work replace the whole car

 

hahaha, yeah. Maybe I'm just finding an excuse to buy K-pro.

From what i understand there are two connections running from the main relay to the ecu, correct?

Does anyone know what pins they go to?

 

is pin E7 from the ecu is supposed to connect to the main relay (pin 7 on the main relay)?

if its supposed to, then i need to go hunting for a disconnected wire somewhere.

 

UPDATE!

swapped in a Kpro and now im getting the fuel injectors to fire. still no spark. what is the voltage from the ignition coil plug? I understand that black/white is power, black is ground and the blue wire is the firing wire. what is the voltage on the connectors? should i be getting 12v when the ignition is on and i have a volt meter attached to black/white and the black wire?

-Thanks

edit: the car is throwing no CEL codes btw.

 

hey hate to start back up a old thread but did u get it to fire up?