My check engine light came on today. Went to Advance Auto to see what the code was and the salesman told me it was a crank sensor (P1337). My 99 LS starts with no problems and runs great. Is this just something that I'm going to have to replace or can I just leave it alone?

 

how about you search online and see what it affects and what to do to fix it instead of asking us?

 

I did. People are talking about bypassing it. Honda put it there for a reason. People are also saying check the VSS connection, injector o rings and other stuff. I just am asking to see what the "experts" think. Isn't this where people are suppose to go for help?

 

yes it is. not sure what that guys problem is

 

some of us are more helpful than others. Myself however, I don't have anything to contribute.

FREE HUGS!...lol

 

Another guy had the same prob and swapped dizzys but I'm not sure it will work for you.if your not having any issues try clearing it and see if it comes back sometimes they lock in erroneous codes.

 

Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does then:
http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=19628

 

Got it to clear. Thanks guys

 

just so you guys know, clearing a code does nothing to benefit a diagnostic. reason i say this is that the MIL will clear on it's own. usually within 2 fault free trips. the code will usually remain in history for a period of 40-80 warm-up cycles, and be cleared completely from memory if no fault is found within that period. if you have an MIL, it's there for a reason. and if corrective action is not made, it will persist. that is, depending on the code setting criteria, and how frequently the fault occurs.

basically, what i'm saying is, you should never need to clear a code. if there is no fault, the code will clear itself. if it doesn't, then you have a problem

another thing you should know is that when you clear codes, you dump all the memory in the KAM (keep alive memory). this is where adaptive learning strategies are held. your ecm then needs to relearn all fuel strategies, idle strategy, readiness monitors,etc..some of that memory can take days or even weeks to relearn.
all i'm saying is that there's more of an effect than you may realize. and you're not doing yourself any favors by doing so. and as i'd said previously, it's completely unnecessary in the first place

 

^ i agree
If it comes back just fix it.
it's only a couple of bolts and a clip.
you could do it yourself in like 15 mins if your comfortable with tools.
Why risk damaging yoru engine for a small thing like a crank sensor?

 

working in a dealership for 2 years, ive seen cars log codes erroneously because of other outside influences. clearing a code and looking for a return is an easy way to rule it out. especially if the cause is questionable. its preferred to just throwing parts at it because a code showed up. i agree it takes time for systems to relearn normal enviroment parameters, but its free and takes no effort. the guy isnt trying to clear the code and sell it. he would drive it regardless. the time it takes to relearn is going to be there. why jump the gun if theres an option.

 

i'm sorry. but i don't believe in phantom codes. every code has a criteria in order to be set. once that criteria is met (usually more than once, i might add), the code is set. understanding the steps to repair it means understanding the criteria it took to set it.
for every code, there's an explanation.
that's not to say that a problem couldn't be very intermittent and may even never come back. but there is always an explanation.

 

Thanks for the information. That's very interesting. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

I'd have to disagree. It's the first step in pretty much every honda service manual for for almost if not every code. I have had had what honda calls intermittent failures that never cleared in their own but when manually cleared never came back., especially in the case of misfires.

 

lol. honda service manuals? yeah. because the honda service manual is never wrong. i wonder how many ecm's have been replaced mistakenly by following a honda service flow chart. you yourself must admit that honda service diagnostics can many times be flawed.

how many warm-up cycles did you allow before you'd determined that the code would "never" clear?
because i can guarantee on a misfire code, or anything emissions related for that matter, it's going to be at least 80 fault free warm-up cycles.

this stuff isn't black magic voodoo. it's black or white. no grey. if you clear a code and it doesn't return, ever, there is no problem. if the code doesn't clear itself after the designated frame, the problem still exists

 

I'm just saying in my experience not all codes mean that a sensor is bad or that a part needs to be replaced. Case in point a P1337 code can be caused by many things, one being that the vehicle may not have a splash shield. The owner drives through a puddle during a rain storm and the sensor shorts 3+ times casing the light to illuminate. This doesn't mean the sensor is bad but had an intermittent failure due to water intrusion. Clear the code and the code won't come back, of course unless it rains again and you drive through a puddle. At that point you diagnose that it isn't the sensor but is water intrusion from the splash shield missing. Yes you could wait for 80 cycles to clear but why? Same issue with misfire codes and bad gas, like you said I don't believe in phantom codes either but unless its reproduceable its going to be a hard find unless the sensor or associated wiring truly is bad. And bad ecus are always the last source of failure in the troubleshooting guide and rarely are the case unless there is an external factor such as flooding, owner or tech swapping plugs, etc.

 

 

of course. whether or not a part had failed wasn't what i was implying. only that there was/is a problem. i see where you're coming from. and absolutely, it isn't always cut and dry. if a fault isn't occurring at the time, sometimes all you can do is a thorough visual inspection and maybe run on a little bit of instinct, using your understanding of how the system in question operates. can't spend all day on it, i agree. 1 hour. that's what you get. and you use that hour as efficiently as possible.

 

yea. sometimes sensors or parts will malfunction, but will be because of external influences. it this case, replacing the part throwing the code solves nothing. its like treating a symptom not the problem. sometimes this can be as simple as a gas station who has a damaged gas holding tank which let water into it causing cars to misfire. when i worked at a parts store, the gas station across the street actually had it happen. they didnt know it and after i got tons of complaints from customers and shops about cars misfiring and many of them mentioning getting gas there just prior, i put 2 and 2 together and went to talk to the ppl that worked there and sure enough they told me how they had found out that their tank was damaged and was letting rain water in. maybe coincidence maybe not, but after that i suggested to customers that came in with misfire codes to just reset them and see what happened and about 75-80% of them had permanent positive results. This was my first real experience with erronious codes. I will never argue that codes can come from absolutely thin air, they require more than one recorded incident to prevent that specifically. But there are external influences that can cause an otherwise healthy car to throw codes.