H22A Cold Start Issues
Hello all,
Its been pretty cold lately, and I've noticed that when my car is cold it barely wants to start. It always does, but it seems to almost 'roll over' instead of cleanly start..
I've replaced the dizzy, wires, plugs and battery. These are all brand new, I'm wondering what else could be needing attention? Starter is brand new also.
Its been pretty cold lately, and I've noticed that when my car is cold it barely wants to start. It always does, but it seems to almost 'roll over' instead of cleanly start..
I've replaced the dizzy, wires, plugs and battery. These are all brand new, I'm wondering what else could be needing attention? Starter is brand new also.
How are the cables to and from the battery? Cable to the starter? Grounds?
Make sure every connection is clean and tight. Verify the battery voltage.
What weight of oil are you using? A thicker oil will not flow as easily and can cause slow starting.
Make sure every connection is clean and tight. Verify the battery voltage.
What weight of oil are you using? A thicker oil will not flow as easily and can cause slow starting.
Are you saying it cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks then finally turns over ? Could be the coolant temperature sensor starting to go. I would replace it, if it's never been replaced. This is in addition to what mike said.
I have recently replaced the coolant temperature sensor (the one on the head closest to the front of the motor, upper rad hose).
Yes it cranks, cranks, then starts. All my connections are good. Grounds have been sanded and re-applied (I did this about a week ago, trying to troubleshoot this).
I will verify the battery voltage next, I just gotta find a voltage meter.
Yes it cranks, cranks, then starts. All my connections are good. Grounds have been sanded and re-applied (I did this about a week ago, trying to troubleshoot this).
I will verify the battery voltage next, I just gotta find a voltage meter.
You want to replace the one shown in this picture with the yellow connector coated in oil (far back):
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No, that sensor won't fix your heat. It's there to tell your ECU what temp it is at so the other sensors/components will know what to do.
Check your heater valve by the firewall. Follow the heater hose from the head located underneath the distributor and back towards the firewall. That plastic heater valve is known to get stuck closed causing no heat to get to the heater core and give off heat. And make sure there's coolant inside the system.
Check your heater valve by the firewall. Follow the heater hose from the head located underneath the distributor and back towards the firewall. That plastic heater valve is known to get stuck closed causing no heat to get to the heater core and give off heat. And make sure there's coolant inside the system.
That is most likely the shift solenoid wires(starter on top of trans indicates automatic).
Oil is not normal. That is either from a Valve cover, distributor O-ring, or distributor oil seal leak.
FWIW, Left sensor is for ECU, middle is for temp gauge, and wateroutlet is a thermo switch for the cooling fans.
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