Okay so I bought a si. That has a D16a6 engine block and a unknown head. It had a full d16a6 swap but they did a head job and added an unknown head. (Nonvtec)
The head stamp is "PM4-9".
Now the engine runs fine turns on and drives. Just it slight overheats. Runs work radiator works.
It is leaking oil . I'm not sure if its because the gasket blew or possibly the wrong one.
The spark plugs don't fit in fully .
And it smokes out black exhaust when accelerated.


So my questions are.

What head is it? I heard it's a D15b2
Why do you think its leaking most likely?
And if it is wrong head gasket which one should I use a head gasket d16a6 or the unknown head correct gasket?
As for the spark plug wires. Is it simply just changing the wires?
Would it be smoking black/dark exhaust due to oil leaking or wrong/ blown head gasket. Or is it something much worst..?
Is it healthy for my block to have a d15b2 head if it is that head.? Or should I try to buy an other d16a6 head..

Thanks for your answers and support!

 

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Honestly, read this and it seems like you should just get an a6 Vtec head and solve all those problems. The head leaks cause the gasket was probably reused. It probably is using the old ECU tuned for vtec too. On top of that the spark plugs are different for those 2 heads I believe. Right? If I had an SI I would at least have a VTEC in there. Whoever replaced that head made an awkward mistake.

 

d15 head. needs new head gasket change wrong spark plug wires. ecu is fine should be a pm6. that head is fine for that block a6 and b2 are the same heads.

 

the a6 for one isn't vtec anyways, either like g.r.crx said they used old hg, or didn't torque it right an its warped, as for spark plugs make sure they are correct ones and ur not goin over 16ft-lbs when installing or u fudged ur head up lol but ya only diff between a6 head an b2 is cam that's it

 

if it's a bhg check your oil.. is it milky?
black smoke is probably because it's running pig rich.
as for which head gasket to go with? i'd just get one that matches your block.. A6?
but really there's a search bar the top of your browser. just put in " honda PM4-9 head" next time
http://www.d-series.org/forums/archi...n-s-print.html

 

lol drain the oil if it looks like u just added creamer to ur coffee change gasket, also get good straight edge check block for ANY tiny diff, look in a helms for clearance think its .001.

 

im trying to check my block for warpage with a straight edge but i dont know the specs/tolerances. would you know where i'd be able to get a Helms?

 

.002 to max of .004, but even at .004 still can cause blown hg. an when u replace gasket don't use that fiber ****, use the mls gasket. and make sure both head and block are completely clean of all old gasket, use acetone.

 

actually a6 and b2 cams are the same. sohc zc is the different one.

 

mls gasket? where can i get one of those..do they have them at like autozone, oreillys..

 

You can't be serious. Don't even THINK about throwing an mls gasket on there. If it has been milled by a belt and not a machine then you will blow that mls gasket as soon as you rev the engine. And since you were asking about the surface don't even have it as an option unless you personally KNOW that the surfaces are either original with no resurfacing and no warping, or resurfaced with a machine and not a belt. And I mean the mating surface for the head AND block. Using an mls gasket requires perfectly machined surfaces. It's layered metal and WILL not last without proper preparation. I wouldn't even use an mls gasket on that motor, that's just crazy talk. It's not even producing enough power to blow a "fiber ****" gasket, which is good enough for Honda to use during the manufacturing of the motor......

 

so in other words the unknown head is in fact a d15b2?
and I should be fine running on a d16a6 block with a d15b2 head long I fix the gasket and change the spark plugs. and for the head gasket I should use the d16a6 head gasket not a d15b2.
and its running rich because its leaking oil and burning it correct???..




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aswell as torque it right and do an oil change. and clean it up while I'm doing the head gasket job.

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Alright, I will give you the steps on what I feel is the best way to handle this. Using a feeler gauge, set it to a size between .001 and .004, and lay the straight edge across the block, small sections at a time, and try to slide the feeler gauge between the straight edge and the surface. it should NOT slide through. I would set it to .002 or .003, it gives you a good range to test. Make sure the surfaces are 100 percent clear of gasket, gunk, oil, everything. If it passes that then install the new gasket, and if you wanna spend the few bucks spray the gasket down with Copper Spray from a parts store. Make sure everything lines up, and torque the head bolts using the proper sequence. Now would be the time to have a repair manual handy, or search for it. torque them to half of the required torque first, then follow up with the full torque. Remember to follow the proper sequence. Replace head bolts if you can. Then replace the plugs with the plugs for a D15b2, remember to apply a small amount of anit-seize to the threads. Replace wires if you are compelled to do so. Don't put an expensive motor oil in the motor for this process, because the old oil still needs cleaned out. use whatever oil is affordable, because you should empty it out after about 1k miles and put in whatever "good stuff" you intend to use. You oil filter will likely be pretty nasty after the initial oil cycles through also, so replace it when you replace oil. Now back to the oil leak. Check for leaks after you drive the car around a bit. If there is a leak then it is likely from either the oil pan gasket, cam seal, timing seal, or crankshaft seals. You should be fine after all of this, assuming the head gasket is the cause of the problems. Heck, you can send me a private message for any questions. And use a standard head gasket, there is no place for mls in a stock D series.

 

okay thanks man I will do! thanks for your advice and support. appricate it your time and everything.
same for everyone else!


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oh and one small thing I forgot.every once and while the car doesn't want to start. I put it in ignition and right at the moment everything is suppose to shut off to give the car the volts. it doesn't happen and there is a click near the driver side AC vent. I hear the fuel pump cut on. then it clicks and doesn't start. I think its the main relaay but is that where its located?


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the main relay is right above the hood release lever, one bolt holds it to the frame. it takes a little bit with an open end wrench to get it out. easier if u remove the hood lever. pop off the black case and look for broken soldering spots. you can resolder if one looks bad, or buy another. sometimes a ground wire being shorted or not making good contact will cause that issue also.


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thanks for the help!. I'm learning of cars as is. and experiencing new things with efs. I had a eg hatch then started to hate the body figure and rear end. and as every other person likes it so I wanted a ef. aside from the dash that's awesome. the rear pop out windows. the one piece hatch and rear end looks better. thanks


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