I thought it would be a good idea to try and gather some info out here on what other welders recommend as far as setups go.
Post a list something like this:

material: ex. 304l 1.5" schedule 10 pipe
filler: size and type
tunsgten: size and type
cup: size
Argon CFH:
Amps:
a/c or d/c:
Welder: brand/model
additional info: pulse/post flow/slope down, etc.

I thought a compilation of this info could be used to help people just starting out.
maybe we can get it sticky'd

 

this information is more commonly found somewhere on the welding unit in a table format...sometimes adjusted slightly, but gives you a good starting point

 

I'm not looking for a generic answer. I thought it would be nice to have setup preferences from actual people in regards to common performance automotive fabrication

 

Well, I'm only a hobby welder (I build custom kitchen cabinets for a living), but I'll partially bite.

Regardless of what I'm welding, I prefer to use as small of a filler rod as possible because I feel like I have better control with it( I tend to get carried away with the filler if I'm using a bigger rod than I really need to); it's just my slightly odd preference. On 90% of the projects I've done, I've used 1/16ths filler rod. I dropped down to .045" for a 16ga catch can I made for a friend because I had an extremely good fit up. I've seen people weld the bottom of soda cans together with 3/32ths rod before though so I don't think it matters all that much. I think on open root passes, the size of filler rod you use has a lot to do with the actual width of the root. Like if you had a 3/32" gap, you'd use a 3/32" rod.

Oddly, I'm the opposite with tungsten size. I use 3/32" 2% lanthanum for everything 30 amps and up to 200 amps (aluminum included) because that is the limit of my machine. I found I prefer it because it is a little more forgiving if you accidentally dip it in the puddle as opposed to 1/16".

I've used #7 and #8 cups for everything I've done so far.

I also like to use the rule of the 3's pulse setup on really thin metal.

 

I'm pretty much the same way. LOL. That's why I was asking. I figured there must be defferent setups depending on individual style. I'm curious as to how and why other people do what they do, but I'm not getting much feedback. haha.
Not familiar with the rule of 3's. I have yet to try my pulse feature.

 

I think it just boils down to what you (the welder) feel comfortable with. I think beyond general rules of thumb it's best to just experiment and find what works best for you because two people could do the same project two completely different ways, yet come out with the exact same end result.

I will say this, I've yet to meet another person that tig welds that doesn't like to use as small of a torch as possible for the job at hand.

Rule of 3's would be 33 pulses per second, 33% on time, and 33% background. It just controls the heat input a bit better on really thin metal. Works good because it's fast enough that it doesn't produce a strobe light effect, but slow enough that it actually does something in terms of heat input.

 

sync 200
tungsten-sky blue hybrid tungsten,1/16th in. for stainless, 3/32 for aluminum
filler-.045" for sch 10, .035 for 16ga.
filler-1/16th and 3/32 for aluminum
cup-#12 cup with lense
gas at 18
postflow depending on how hot you get your piece, you can always tap to purge longer.

I use the smallest filler I can, to keep the puddle consistent.

 

^thanks. Let's get some more people.

 

material: 304 1.5mm thick
filler: 1mm and 1.5mm
tunsgten: 2.4mm red colour
cup: 12 w/ lens
Argon CFH: around 12-15
Amps: 32-38amp.
a/c or d/c: DC of course
Welder: brand/model : Italian-china Tig.
additional info: pulse/post flow/slope down, etc. didnt know exactly a number, just set it when i see it's good , anyway i will try to post a picture today.

for AC

material: Alu 2mm thick
filler: 2mm thick.
tunsgten: 2.4mm red
cup: 12 w/ lens
Argon CFH: same as above
Amps: 60-65 amp.
a/c or d/c: AC
Welder: brand/model : same tig as above
additional info: pulse/post flow/slope down, etc. : samething as above, i like to run with a lot of freq. just need to practice more for AC Balance, also i didnt use to much 4T switch.

 

for steel or stainless I use a 1/16" Tungsten with a #10 large diameter gas lens.
For aluminum I used a 3/32" tungsten with a #8 cup.

My welder is a 2013 Everlast 200DX-dual voltage that I just upgraded to from a Lincoln precision 185.

Preference of tungsten I havent had time to find yet with the new welder. FWIW my LWS isnt carrying and more 2% theorated (red) so I will be moving over to hybrids to see if I like them.

I have been using the 2% theorated for stainless and pure tungsten on aluminum with the new welder because thats what I had left over from my last setup.

Matt

 

material: 304L sch 10
filler: 1/16" 308L
tungsten: 1/16" thoriated
cup: #12 large gas lense
cfh: 25-40
amps: don't know really, i set my amps at 65 and just use the pedal to get the heat i need.
current: DCEN
welder: syncrowave 250dx

material: aluminum
filler: 1/16 or 3/32 depending on what i'm welding
tungsten: 3/32 pure
cup: #5
cfh: 25-30
amps: same as above, except i set the max to 90 and use the foot pedal for my heat
current: A/C HF
Welder: syncrowave 250dx

FWIW, i use an unusually large stickout on my tungsten, the big gas lense helps that and for some reason i do better work like that.

 

where are you guys buying your #12 gas lenses from? the only place i've found is cni.

Until i can find a bigger cup i Use

material: 304 sch 10 / 16ga 304
filler: 1/16" 308L .045" 308L
tungsten: 1/16" thoriated
cup: #8 gas lense
cfh: around 20cfh
amps: not really sure, using an old machine with no real precise amperage adjustment
current: DCEN
welder: Miller 330 bp, for now...

 

^Try your local welding shop. Most shop can order you anything in that you like.


Just to update my preferences... there are much better alternatives than I posted before.

Though a little more expensive, I am trying and loving the purple tipped E3 hybrid tungsten. It seems to be a replace all type tungsten from my limited (~10h) welding time. Been getting pretty good results with it (skill limited) on both Aluminum and Stainless.

Insert noob comment: I did dip once in the stainless but this tungsten didnt hesitate, make the standard dipping noise or blackness that you would get with the 2% red tungsten. I stopped to clean it up but was surprised that if i was quickly ripping a weld out on something you may not notice.

 

material: 16g 304ss, 14g alum
filler: 308 .045, 5356 3/32
tunsgten: 3/32 grey for ss, white for alum
cup: 12
Argon CFH: 15
Amps: 100-125 for most welds
a/c or d/c: dc for ss, ac for alum
Welder: everlast 210ext
additional info: no pulse. post flow 10-15 seconds. other settings are specific to tack welding or continuous welding and material type.

aaron

 

100amp for welding 16g? wow i hope it has to do with 115v you use there. here we use 220v and welding 16g at 200 amp will melt "in a blink"..

 

I'm the same way. I like to have the amperage about twice what is needed and then I use about 50% pedal. I like the flexibility.

 

material: 14g 304ss, 12g alum
filler: 308 .045, 5356 3/32
tunsgten: 3/32 red for ss, green for alum
cup: 8
Argon CFH: 15-20
Amps: 100-125
a/c or d/c: dc for ss, ac for alum
Welder: Lincoln Precision Tig 225
additional info: no pulse. post flow 3-5 seconds.

 

good info, thanks for sharing. As a noob to TIG, Gives me some ideas

 

following up on this:

I have been using e3 hybrid tungsten and I love them.

I was in a pinch and ran out of the hybrid and had to go back to the red 2%. Lets just say I will be tossing my stock of 2% into the trash and never buying any more.

 

When asking my supply house, do I just ask for "e3", or is there a color chart to go from?


I have seen many going for the Grey/Orange, is there any with experience with it?

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...ngsten&_sop=15

 

The e3 tungsten I have been using are purple.