Hello, long time reader first time poster.

So, I've a problem: whistle cruising down the highway the engine quite. Just died, no backfire or intermittent responses.

The car reluctantly started the next day after a new ignition coil, rotor & excessive cranking. The previous rotor melted at the attach bolt. Car ran for 15 min then quit again, melted rotor same place.

http://db.tt/ERlNsy2y


I'm using a Haynes manual for guidance.

 

So it wasn't spuddering and trying to stay running when it died on you both times? It simply STOPPED??

When you are cranking it, does it occasion "fire" like it is combusting and trying to crank?

My advice is kinda vague, but expect the unexpected. It could be intermittent fuel problem or spark component going out (even new ones). Basically, seeing spark doesn't mean a completely properworking spark system, and seeing strong fuel doesn't mean CONSISTENT strong fuel.

My wife's dodge neon stopped cranking once, but it had strong fuel shooting from the fuel line. It just wasn't consistent under pressure. New pump fixed it.

My prelude completely stopped making power and would not "fire" (attempt to combust and start the engine)....it just turned over and over. It was a corroded connection from external coil to the distributor cap. Cleaned it and cranked right up.

My civic would stop making power immediately at 1500rpms (like a rev limiter) and would bog completely when leaving a stopsign (only was to regain power is to kill/recrank engine). I had to replace the almost-new distributor. The first replacement (junkyard) had a bad sensor in it, and finally the second replacement has it running strong. My almost brand new distributor was providing "inconsistant spark."

So anyway, please describe more about when it ran perfectly, exactly when and HOW it starting showing problems, and exactly how it is acting now while cranking?

Also, stop disconnecting the battery. Keep an eye open for the trouble code while you turn it over and over. The code may disappear each time you turn the key off.

Ummm...did you check the main fuses (in car and especially under hood)?

 

Thanks for the reply!

Fuses are all good. The car simply stopped producing power while going down the highway- as if it stopped receiving spark or fuel completely & very decidedly. The car had electrical power it's the engine that stopped producing power to the drivetrain. When it was running before its initial stall it did run perfectly. It was a spring day when the fail happened so I thought it maybe the main relay. But the fuel pump has always been working and the main relay test fine. Nevertheless I'll replace ASAP.

There is some combustion going on. There is light sounding backfire now. It's quite slight.

I'm thinking about getting a ECU from the junkyard and switching. I've found in various postings that an 88 CRX ECU is slightly different internally but the 88 car will handle a 89-91 CRX ECU.

 

EACV is failing a test which suggests a faulty ECU, it's got 15 volts from the harness with the ignition on. I've got a couple destitute CRX parts cars I can get the ECU from for a good price, I'll swap the main relay first. The parts cars do not have any distributor parts.

Although the distributor & the crank angle sensor could still be the main problem as I don't have continuity to a ground from all the terminals the book tells me to check for, one of the terminals it doesn't say to check did have continuity to ground.

I just don't have enough knowledge as to confirms what this is all telling me. Whats altimately connected to what etc.

 

If you don't hear the fuel pump prime before the engine cranks, the Main relay is the probable cause.

 

main relay or ground issue.

 

No no, not main relay. I've got spark too, looks like a healthy amount. What would the cause the ignition rotor to start to melt like this:

http://db.tt/ERlNsy2y

What I've done to resolve the unresolved problem,in chronological order:

- replace ignition coil & melted rotor.
- car reluctantly & started ran for 15 min. **Rotor melted again as in picture**
- replaced main relay (new)
- confirmed no ECU codes given
- replaced fuel filter (new)
- tested for high pressure fuel on fuel filter outbound - no pressure tester but, it really squirted.
- replaced fuel pressure regulator (used)
- replaced ECU (used)
- replaced spark plugs (new)
- replaced EACV (used)
- replaced distributor (used) used slightly melted rotor - just realized it had indeed melted again. ...
- tested new distributer harness (crank sensor test), passes resistance between terminals but fails continuity to ground as did my other distributor.

I'm thinking its the ignitor or crank sensor in the distributor. I'm going to order a whole new distributor I suppose. Perhaps it's out of time from the melted rotor. Wee little huffs when it's trying to turn over, no definitive backfire.

**I'm seeing fuel and spark with the plugs pulled.

 

http://db.tt/mCdcSS26

That's a pic of it on the tow truck after its first break down on busy queen Elizabeth highway between Calgary & Edmonton.
I adore my CRX, it has held my attention closely for the last four days of its unserviceable. I've owned it for 4 years. 245,000km now.

 

its time for a swap

 

Have another complete distributor unit coming from a wrecker.

The pins from the 7 pin harness - distributor side - should have continuity to ground when the distributor is bolted on right? Manual says its suppose to. I check for the resistance with: positive terminal on pin(s) & negative on battery negative terminal, ignition is off, but no continuity in any of the pins the book states there is suppose to be.

 

I resolved the no start issue with a new OEM distributor.

It was a tricky one for me as I replaced the coil and rotor initially, which got it running momentarily, then I replaced the distributor entirely with a used part which was apparently faulty. Lesson reinforced, always use good parts when trouble shooting.
The problem was either the ignitor or crank angle sensor, I suppose.

Also, this was my first topic and I feel like a bit of a jack *** because I didn't utilize the FAQ sticky at the top before posting my topic.

Anyway, I'm a happy man now. Spent at least 20 hours on this problem and its now resolved. Incidentally the new distributor cost $455 CAD.

 

nice work on not turning your back on your 'rex and thank you for reporting your solution.