my master cylinder is still in it's appropriate level, but the rusty clamping sound is bugging me. i'm getting down and dirty this weekend, which i haven't done in a while. and another question while i post this... is it true, that the best time to flush and fill coolant is before winter time? thanx techies.

 

Engrish prease.

 

1) i've been hearing a rusty clamping sound on my driver side brake disc. it goes off almost every braking. sometimes it get's loud, sometimes it clunks. i've checked my fluid level and it's on an average level. just need some huidance as far as what i should be looking for in a bad brake caliper. (ie. worn piston, brake line... etc.)

2) to the side, is it true or is it a myth, when flushing and filling coolant, it's more appropriate to be done before winter season. doesn't really sound right to me.

 

My calipers went out on my car and when I looked at the line I could tell some major wear at the end of line. Of course I didn't have to observe it beforehand because mine just failed and was just locked on the brake. Kind of just let me know there was a problem. That should be a place to look but I dion't know about the optimal time to flush and fill, etc.

 

Are you sure this just isn't the pad moving around? How many miles do you have on the pads? When was the last time they were changed? How much pad material is left? Are there centering shims around the pad? Are you using aftermarket or OEM pads? What makes you think the problem is with the caliper itself?

You want to change coolant before the winter season starts because of freezing weather. Coolant is hydroscopic and if it is weak - it can freeze and you can damage the cooling system etc. Get the coolant flushed and refilled before winter and you're good to go.

 

yeak...sounds like worn pads dude...or worn or warped rotors....I would think that you would have bigger issues with bad calipers.

 

i replaced my pads, and got my discs resurfaced the beginning of this year, around February. now, when i installed them, a friend of mine was helping me out, knowing he was more inclined than i am, and experienced, he assisted me, but forgot to bleed the lines. we asked a mechanic, if it was actually necessary to bleed, since he opened the reservoir/ master cylinder, overflowing after installation, he replied no, and continued to ask. so we left it there. tightened and put the cap back on, and that was it. i forgot what brand pads they were, but they fit just perfectly. the shim that came with it seemed different in shape. i installed that and anti-squeal compound.

bump.

 

hmmm...that anti-squeal compound is a bit suspicious....I also kind of wonder why the mechanic said it wasn't necessary to blead the brake lines...air bubbles in the brake system leads to performance loss. Hmm...I'd recheck the rotor and pads though...just in case....what kind of pads are they? I've known cases of pads wearing out in like a week of moderate use.

 

Since you had the rotor re-surfaced and the pads have had time to bed-in - you might just have a lot of free play between the pad and the rotor (skinny rotor + worn pad = rattling pad). If it's just a squeeking noise - ignore it - otherwise get new rotors and pads.

OEM Brembo rotors are cheap. You have to bleed the system properly when doing an install - if you don't know how to do it - get it done by a professional.

 

air in the lines shouldnt be caused by a brake job anyway, no reason to bleed.

 

then it isn't necessary to bleed the lines?

need info.