Redline increased with S2:Tuner 2's ? *NOOB MOMENT*
Ready to drop my tuner 2's in I have a good basemap for the cams(for now). Noob moment:with these cams i'd assume the power band is broadened right ? in the sense than i can make peak HP above the stock 7600. here's what i've got I,H,E,IM,TB,head milled,and of course springs+retainers.
rseason i'm asking is beacuse on the s2 website it states rpm range:1.5K to 9K. http://store.skunk2.com/engine-tunin...hafts-656.html
does this mean i can rev to 9k(even if my power cut off is at lets say 8.5 ?.
tuning date is mid april. so im not going to be beating on it by any means. i just want know if it's safe to bring it to 9k or past the stock redline+ ? fuel cut is dissabled
rseason i'm asking is beacuse on the s2 website it states rpm range:1.5K to 9K. http://store.skunk2.com/engine-tunin...hafts-656.html
does this mean i can rev to 9k(even if my power cut off is at lets say 8.5 ?.
tuning date is mid april. so im not going to be beating on it by any means. i just want know if it's safe to bring it to 9k or past the stock redline+ ? fuel cut is dissabled
talk to your tuner or other racers. Where you shift is going to depend on a few factors like what RPM you land at going into the next gear and how that relates to your torque curve. If you make power to say 7800, it is unnecessary to rev to 9000 even under racing conditions.
RPM will kill an engine fast. If its not setup to rev that high, keep it toned down and at a safe limit. If you make power to 7800, I typically give a 500rpm or so window before you would hit the limiter but that doesnt mean you have to rev it that high.
At the track, you will run a faster time if you run the final gear out longer instead of shifting into the next gear near the finish line. There are some conditional factors that play into this but if you arent going to be racing, keep in mind that the engine was clearanced and balanced for a certain rpm operating window. Overcome all that and you run into big issues.
RPM will kill an engine fast. If its not setup to rev that high, keep it toned down and at a safe limit. If you make power to 7800, I typically give a 500rpm or so window before you would hit the limiter but that doesnt mean you have to rev it that high.
At the track, you will run a faster time if you run the final gear out longer instead of shifting into the next gear near the finish line. There are some conditional factors that play into this but if you arent going to be racing, keep in mind that the engine was clearanced and balanced for a certain rpm operating window. Overcome all that and you run into big issues.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/skunk2-tuner-2-cam-dyno-3006379/
theres one dyno sheet if that helps
theres one dyno sheet if that helps
^Thanks guys. I've viewed that thred a fiew times as a referance as to what i might make hp/tq wise. guess the only way to really know the peak hp/drop off is when i go to get it tuned as each set up is slightly different. most likly won't take it above the stock redline till I know all that. 98vtec you're talking about the bottem end not being able to handle the high/sustained RPM's right ? im keeping the stock bottom end (don't have the tools/time to pull the entire engine). car is just a DD that i wanted to ad some kick to no autox or "offical drag"
insted of making a new thred where do i put the assembly lube ? where the cam rests against the cam caps ? and any on the rocker arm/lma
According to my tuner 9000 ecu rpm (about 9300 or so in the Tach) is the absolute "Safe" Maximum that you can run on stock rods/bolts. As far as shifting points are conserned you can do a couple of All-Gear Pulls on the dyno with different redline settings and sort it out i think.
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my clutch is starting to slip
so i don't think it'll see any 9K pulls till i get that addressed. but thanks to all for the input will be installing them this week once my chip arrives. looking forward to see what this will put down.
so i don't think it'll see any 9K pulls till i get that addressed. but thanks to all for the input will be installing them this week once my chip arrives. looking forward to see what this will put down.
According to my tuner 9000 ecu rpm (about 9300 or so in the Tach) is the absolute "Safe" Maximum that you can run on stock rods/bolts. As far as shifting points are conserned you can do a couple of All-Gear Pulls on the dyno with different redline settings and sort it out i think.
TRIPPPPPPPPPINNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

Might as well start a bet with 3 friends to see who calls
Which cylinder slings a rod out of.
Rev to when your powerband ends holding the gas raising
The rpm past the PEAK Hp is pointless and a sure way to run slower
E/t times
& check out action clutch
Based in Los Angeles they handmake their clutches in the USA
I personally have the 1ms stage 2 on my b20b DA
& a stage 3 2ms 6 puck sprung for my lsvtec eg.
Great price and great performance, bisi actually used their clutches
& is supposed to be in the works of building a shop car for them.
"Might as well start a bet with 3 friends to see who calls
Which cylinder slings a rod out of"
8500 ECU Rpm is the limiter on a Stock ITR wich would equal to something like 8600-700 in the Tach. 400 extra rpm on Upgraded VT and Proper Clearances is not something Huge K ?
"The rpm past the PEAK Hp is pointless and a sure way to run slower
E/t times"
Uhm no way ? its Average HP per Gear that makes you fast not PEAK hp.If it doesnt fall on its face hard after the peak you can rev it out to a certain degree in order to increase the HP average per gear.
Which cylinder slings a rod out of"
8500 ECU Rpm is the limiter on a Stock ITR wich would equal to something like 8600-700 in the Tach. 400 extra rpm on Upgraded VT and Proper Clearances is not something Huge K ?
"The rpm past the PEAK Hp is pointless and a sure way to run slower
E/t times"
Uhm no way ? its Average HP per Gear that makes you fast not PEAK hp.If it doesnt fall on its face hard after the peak you can rev it out to a certain degree in order to increase the HP average per gear.
I like action clutch. I used the 2md setup in my old sohc vitara motor it did very well and had a decent pedal pressure
my tuner 2 peaked around 8100 on both my b20vtec and my built gsr but cam settings will also reflect where it peaks 8400 was max I shifted at
Well one of my piston rings decided to go(wet test comp jumps by almost 100) !!! so i don't think this is going to happen. How on earth does one ring go bad in a months time ?
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