the new 70mm throttle body i got from phearable.net

after setting the idle when i press on the throttle cable pulley the idle goes down and engine almost dies.
does that mean tha the butterfly valve havent been set properly?

or is it supposed to have a small opening and not be fully vacuum sealed?

the old throttle body didng have idle adjusting screw so i used the throttle to set the idle.

there are no other vacuum leaks i checked everything including the TB gasket.

 

Bump.im having trouble setting my idle

The set screw was not touched and looks like its been calibrated and set with green paint(phearable.net throttle body)

 

It's not supposed to be fully shut on my s2 one it said set the butterfly so it does not stick(via the rotor screw) then you can set the idle accordingly you'll have to calibrate the tps if you touch the rotor screw tho.



http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...peed-gen3.html

 

There are the omni power and i donno about skunk2 that dont have idle adjusting screw.
I had that one before.
This one does have the screw i just dont remember this on stock throttle body.

 

Still having crappy idle.
With old skunk2 im and 68mm theottle body the startup was smooth.
Engine started right up and went to 1500 cold idle or dropped quickly according to temps

Right after i put the manifold in it was not smooth
It stumbles at startup and start low and ccreep up to 1500 rpm in few seconds.
Or hangs just under a 1000 if warmed up started


I tried to set idle about 4 times now following the service manual but still starts like ****.

 

can too much post start fuel trim or cranking trim cause this?
it idles at about 11.4 right after start and then goes to about 13.6 in a minute or so.

 

Op, I'm not sure if you partially opened and recalibrated tps, its not in the thread if you actually did or not. I know the other guy suggested it already.
I had to set my plate to partial open on my "professional products" 68mm because it did stick closed on me once. Prob solved after tps recalibration and idle screw/timing adjustment. Maybe I just got lucky! I hope you can/have fixed it, idle issues are so aggravating.

 

im still suspecting bad demon unit. im just having too many inconsistent issues that appear and disappear randomly. car runs different every time even after dynotune.

when dyno tuned it started fine. a week later i started having idle and starting issues and i finally figured out it was the crank trim and post start trim
it was set properly and now it was starting at 10 afr in post start trim suddenly.

im working on adjusting that right now. after some fuel decrease its starting a bit smoother.

 

are you running neptune rtp

 

Yep. Besides that issue its great.

 

The demon isn't new, right? You've had that a while?

 

its almost a year old but i noticed that issue few weeks after i installed it when i got the afrs somewhat close.

my tuner also had trouble with it he said he couldnt get the afrs consistent.

i decreased the crank and post start fuel and first time it was good.
next day it was same rich at 10.2 afr

pretty much it goes from beeing 1 point rich to 1 point lean.
and its not the gauge because i can actually feel the engine run and sound different when it hapends.
i checked the ecu 4 times already and i did install new capacitor that was included with the kit.

im running out of ideas can any other failing systems cause it?
like fuel pump(walbro 190hp 2 years old) or main relay or failing sensors like iat or map ELD maybe or anything?
i also tested the wideband by unplugging it at least 10 times to see of reading changes but it stayed consistent.
and i keep checking the graphs for sensor readouts in datalogs but they all seem to be working good.

first i tried to close the butterfly thinking that it was not calibrated properly.
i recalibrated the tps and set the idle as good as i could after.
it would start really rough and rpm would drop and almost stall every start.

so i adjusted it back to where it was set originally.
adjusted the idle again and i it was starting better but it sounded like it was misfiring for about 30 seconds after start every time
and rpm would also hang at 1000 and then creep up to 1500 during cold start
then i checked the afr and it was around 10-11

i decreased the startup and post start fuel by few points and it seemed like it worked
but not for long.


also the iacv gets very hot way before the intake manifold heat soaks.
i can lay my hand on the manifold and warm to touch and iacv would be too hot to put a finger on it.

 

bump.
is that a sign of bad IACV when its very hot before the IM heatsoaks?
it was working fine before i swapped the manifolds

 

When i had neptune rtp my car would drop in rpm everytime i come to a stop then idle surge before fixing it self

 

Have you touched the ECT or IAT dependent trims at all?

 

i decreased the cranking trim and post start trim twice
also decreased the fuel trim at cold temps

I don't know if I should adjust the maps or not.

but it seems like there was no effect

 

so theres
overall fuel trim
cranking trim
post start trim
raw cranking fuel
iat and ect fuel correction


i red the hondata help files few times and neptune as well but i still dont have a clear idea about how they relate to eachother.

 

so i tried again in the morning i kept decreasing fuel on cold startup and got it to start smooth and better afr readings.

but. the hot start got messed up with those settings.

so in order to get cold start i have to decrease the post start trim to 4
and in order to get the hot start from leaning out past 16 i have to increase the post start trim to around 20
i tried playing with ect trim and crank trim but no luck

called my tuner he said few other people he tuned on neptune had same issues with cold and hot startup