I have a 89 dx crx that I ripped the dx dash and engine harness out and replaced with hf harnesses. I did this so I wouldnt have to ghetto wire my mpfi when I did my b20 swap. Long story short the b20 is in and is not getting fuel or spark. The car didnt have a engine when I got it so idk if it had previous problems. I checked the tranny ground, thermostat ground, underdash ground, and the rear ground by the tail lights and made sure it was metal to metal. The motor does turn over but when it does the break light on the cluster flashes. And when I turn the key the only lights that come on are the door because there open and the seat belt. I have used 3 different ecus that I know are good. Idk what else to check. Any ideas would be helpful thanks

 

Your missing a lot of info here.
What year is the B20? Are you running an OBD0 LS ECU, or did you do an OBD1 conversion? Which injectors are you running....might need to delete resistor box too.

 

Its a b20z2 out a 99 crv. I am running a obd1 ls dizzy and injectors. I have tried obd0 ls and d series ecus just to see if i could get the dash lights on.

 

Missing grounds are a common issue. Check and ensure all your grounds are nice tight and secure.

 

HATCHIN, at least read the post and not just the title.

Bad spot to be in, as your coming from something that has never worked for you, therefore you don't know what could have been wrong with it. No check engine lights?
Either way, make sure your resistor box has been deleted. Pretty sure if your using OBD1 injectors you need to get rid of it(search resistor box and read up to make sure).
Also, the old EF's have problems with the Main relay. Easiest way to check for this is to turn the key in the ignition to the second position (last one before actually starting). Have someone with a good ear near the gas tank listen for the fuel pump. If they don't hear it prime, usually the culprit is the main relay.
Just a couple easy things to check, let us H-Ters know how it goes. GL

 

I pretty sure sure I need to keep my resistor box b/c when we changed my buddies crx to obd1 injectors they wouldnt work unless it had the resistor box. You would think it didnt need it but for some reason it did. I changed the main relay with one i know is good. The thing is all that dash lights arent coming on. I know it has to be a ground somewhere that im missing. When i turn the key I only get door ajar, seatbelt, and battery lights. Its not getting fuel I know for a fact. Havent had anyone help my check for spark but im pretty sure its not getting that either. I changed out both fuse boxes yesterday to see if that would help and nothing. Lol when I got the car all I did was strip down the engine bay and dash and painted everything.

 

This is it with all the wiring out



This is the engine bay stripped for paint



This is after paint



and this is what it looks like with the engine in, Its going to be fun trying to figure out how to get the hood closed because the motor is sitting so high

 

You could try spacers on the hinge mounts to get the hood closed. It does sound like a ground issue. Did you get the one on the thermostat housing?

 

Yes I have my thermostat ground. Here is my problem as of now. My break lights dont work, havent since i had the car. when I turn my key to the on position only my batter, seatbelt, and door open light come on. No fuel pump kicks on and no oil lights come on. When I turn the key to turn the motor over, the break light flashes as its turning over but I have no clue why.

 

It's a grounding problem because the electricity is useing your lights as a ground. The fuel pump ground is in circuit with the pump.

 

so you think my problem lies in my headlights/tail lights? my break lights only come on when i turn the headlights on. I have replaced the switch and they wont come on with the pedal.

 

make sure your running the same obd0 or obd1 ecu and dizzy, the wire that controls the fuel is under your backseat, so you can test it by putting power to it there and see if the gas primes then

 

I know its not getting power to the pump. I actually dropped the tank and took the pump out and tested it just to make sure it was good. As for the obd0 ecu to obd0 dizzy and obd1 ecu to obd1 dizzy that has never mattered for me. I ran my poor mans type r in my 96 hatch with a 00 engine harness and obd1 dizzy and obd2b ecu. As long has i had the connectors wire right it worked fine. But i did connect a jumper harness with a obd1 ecu just to make sure and nothing lol. I just dont understand why my cel doesnt come on when i turn the key to start and why my break light flashes when i turn the motor over.

 

I know you think swapping the whole harness made your life easier but I think you did the opposite. There are differences between the models AND between years. So if the HF harness you took came from a 90-91 stuff like the cluster and dash lights will not work correctly.

Now who knows what could be wrong. It could be fixed but you are not going to find a step by step solution on HT. You are pretty much in uncharted territory and no way for anyone here to know for sure where to begin.

As crazy as it may sound, going back to the DX harness and converting to MPFI is the best and simplest solution. That way you know EXACLTY what wires need to be modified and what is what. You'll find lots of tutorials about the wiring convertion.

 

I know there are differences between the 88-89 and the 90-91. My crx is a 89 and the hf i got all of the wiring from is also a 89. Everything clipped in the same but 1 connector under the dash which i will upload a picture of and there were 6 wires coming from each door on the dx harness and only 2 on the hf which were for the speakers.

 

this is the the only clip that doesnt have a connector from the cabin harness to clip into, im pretty sure it goes up the pillar into the roof

 

anyone know what the clip above is for?

 

that looks like the ecu jumper. used to test for codes and set timing.

have u checked your main relay? it should click 3 times 1. turn the key to on position. 2.when fuel pump is done priming (which apparently yours doesn't work). and 3. when the motor cranks over.

to check for spark by yourself just turn the key on. jump the starter with a long metal object. and hold the spark plug wire next to a bolt. just don't hurt yourself.

 

power windows & power locks?? just a guess.

Also, 90 and 91 civic hatchbacks have a ground behind the cluster. It is pretty much directly behind the speedometer on my car. Sounds logical that a ground so close to the cluster is probably for the cluster.

 

theres a ground inside the cabin on the driver side behind the lever that pops the hood

 

well I figured out my problem but am probably not going to be able to fix it. From what I have read the tail light harnesses for the hf and dx are different. That would explain why my brake lights dont work and the light on the dash blinks when i turn the car over, and my buddy scrapped the car I got the body and engine harness from so I have no clue where I would find a 88-89 crx tail light harness. Lol or even a diagram on how to make the dx one work. And to top it off the only 2 crx i can find at junkyards are 90-91 so I cant use there harness. Lol im screwed

 

Go back to stock harness and convert to MPFI.
You could have saved yourself a lot of time and headaches.

 

Or just get a chase bays or rywire harness its spendy but worth it

 

put your dx harness back in, converting to mpfi was a piece of cake. run a obd1 p75 or 92-93 pr4 ecu, get ecu and dizzy jumpers. wire in 4 wire o2. you can use obd0 (low impendence injectors) with the obd0-0bd1 conversion

you cant use the hf harness with a dx cabin harness, wire locations are different
http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/d...writeup-49557/

 

I used the hf cabin and engine harness. The only reason I did the swap is because my dx harness was chopped up. I have to find another one now