EK not cranking -- Ignition switch test (23-89 in EK service manual)
I have a '00 Civic DX 5spd that will not crank... This morning I shut the car off briefly after driving about 5 miles from my house, but was not able to re-start the car (wouldn't crank) for approximately 20mins. Finally started, then I drove about 100 miles without shutting the car off, stopped again for a quick bite, and went to start it again but it would not crank so I had it towed home. Accessories, lights and everything else still work though. At first I thought it was the main relay but was able to rule that out using the FSM.
I've already checked, there are no blown fuses (and I've double-checked the ones specifically mentioned in the FSM), battery (showed 12.8v) and cables are fine, grounds are secure (I made sure they were snug and roughed up the metal surfaces that they're attached to). ECM, main relay and fuel pump checked out fine too (and I've supplied/tried with spare units where possible). I've also jumped the clutch switch to rule that out. No CELs either.
I can't think of anything else I'm missing. Rather than guessing, I've followed the FSM to troubleshoot but I'm getting no where.
Can someone explain to me how to perform the ignition switch test? This is not the first time I've attempted electrical work, I'm just confused where the pins need to go to test for continuity. I'm not positive that I'm reading the top column correctly, but I understand the key position column. The top column indicates where only one of the pins goes, but to test for continuity, I would need to place the other pin somewhere else (which I'm not seeing). What am I missing?
On a side note... With the trans in neutral, I also tried jumping the starter solenoid terminal from the battery - as per the "Starter Test" (23-95) - but could not get it to crank. Should it not have cranked by jumping the solenoid terminal from the battery?
I've already checked, there are no blown fuses (and I've double-checked the ones specifically mentioned in the FSM), battery (showed 12.8v) and cables are fine, grounds are secure (I made sure they were snug and roughed up the metal surfaces that they're attached to). ECM, main relay and fuel pump checked out fine too (and I've supplied/tried with spare units where possible). I've also jumped the clutch switch to rule that out. No CELs either.
I can't think of anything else I'm missing. Rather than guessing, I've followed the FSM to troubleshoot but I'm getting no where.
Can someone explain to me how to perform the ignition switch test? This is not the first time I've attempted electrical work, I'm just confused where the pins need to go to test for continuity. I'm not positive that I'm reading the top column correctly, but I understand the key position column. The top column indicates where only one of the pins goes, but to test for continuity, I would need to place the other pin somewhere else (which I'm not seeing). What am I missing?
On a side note... With the trans in neutral, I also tried jumping the starter solenoid terminal from the battery - as per the "Starter Test" (23-95) - but could not get it to crank. Should it not have cranked by jumping the solenoid terminal from the battery?
If you have jumped the solenoid correctly and it still wont click, its stuck or toast. If it does click but doesnt turn the motor, starter motor is toast.
I had the starter tested at two different automotive part stores and both times it tested fine. I'm not sure why then it wouldn't jump (red battery terminal cable to the large nut on the starter and I have an alligator clip/wire running from the same (+) battery terminal to the solenoid
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RanCRX
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