I bought an integra that I recently had to pretty much rebuild. The guy I bought it from said that the autostart kills the battery for some reason so I haven't ever tried to use it. I ended up buying a used battery for it after it didn't wanna start a couple times because I thought it was weak and it was fine until I did a compression test and it died on cylinder 3. I put the dead battery into my other integra, jumped it, started the car up an hour later and it was fine, next day that battery was dead again and it wont hold a charge, i guess it killed a cell or something. Finally finished getting the new teg back together yesterday, since I haven't gotten another battery for the new car yet, I took the one from my old car and put it in the new one. (I've had no issues with that battery in my old teg) We tried to start it up and it just clicked like the battery was dead. We roll it out of the garage and hook jumper cables up to it with my roomie's car, still wouldn't fire up and it's reading 13 volts while sitting and 9-10 while cranking with the cables. The spark plugs and wires, coil, cap, and rotor are all new, the alternator was tested and it's fine, that same battery works just fine in the other car, and considering it's been an ongoing issue but would still start at times, I dont think it's a fuse issue or anything like that. Cranks just fine and i was told by a friend who does alarm installs for a living that the autostart and keyless entry have too small of a draw to cause the issue. Also, the engine is high comp (12.5:1) so I was thinking it may need a bigger battery to compensate but no one else seems to think it wouldn't even start because of that so I don't wanna go off spending $200 on an optima battery if it wont fix it (I'm already $2k deep in parts on this car and haven't even gotten to drive it yet). I am completely stumped, any help would be appreciated.

 

Well regardless it sounds like you will need a battery since the one your using to try and start it is from your running car. You do not need an optima battery or something stronger. A basic battery will suffice; OEM, Odyssey, etc.

So with a good battery you just get an ignition click...does the starter turn over at all? If not it could possibly be a simple plastic clutch switch that has been corroded and broken off.

 

Yeah, I know that much, I'll buy another when i figure it out. It cranks if it's hooked up to the jumper cables, wont without them.

 

After thinking so much into it, I'm starting to wonder if the starter is drawing too much power from the battery, that's the only possible cause that would make complete sense to me. Battery fuse should make it not even crank regardless of the jumper cables, alternator and parasitic draw shouldn't effect it with the cables on, if it were the battery cables, I would imagine it wouldn't crank regardless of the jumper cables. if the starter is bad, couldn't it still crank, but with it drawing too much power, cause the battery to be left with too little to fire it up? Or does this just sound like wishful thinking as to avoid thinking of the possibility of there being a random short somewhere that I'll spend countless hours tracking down? lol. I hate electrical systems -.-

 

Do this and let me know what happens...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cm+bypass+jump 94

 

I'll get around to it as soon as i can and let you know. Thanks

 

Decided to just pull the starter and have it tested because i didn't have the tools in your write up and it tested just fine -_- Went back over my grounds, the one on the trans was frayed and corroded, I replaced it, still no change... Idk where to go from here.. Only other thing i can think of is the guy who had it before me had the head resurfaced and even with the thicker head gasket i put on, I believe it was 6 degrees retarded, my room mate used a degree wheel to get everything lined up at TDC. It ran before this and I'm wondering if that might be the issue. I know it needs to be retarded by about a degree to run pump gas with the high comp but idk if that would keep it from even starting, I'm not very timing savvy.

 

The HG will have absolutely nothing to do with the starter working.

As for tools, all you need is a simple $2.99 12V test light and a jumper lead, a scrap piece of wire will work for the jumper, you can even wire up a 12V light bulb to use as a test light.

You said, "it just clicked like the battery was dead" if that click was at the starter then if indicates the starter solenoid is getting power, so the CIS is not the problem, it could still be the ign. switch, starter relay or connections, [not enough power getting to starter solenoid].

That is what the bypass jump test is for, if it cranks with a bypass jump then the problem is before the solenoid, if not, the problem is "after" the input to the solenoid, but not necessarily the starter itself, it could be any number of things from poor grounding to a seized engine and more then a few thing between.

Not doing the tests I linked because you do not have the tools is a lame excuse and just wastes both our times, EG; you just wasted time pulling/testing/reinstalling what sounds like a good starter, I just wasted time telling you all this. 94

 

The starter is working, I said that in the original post. It cranks when its hooked up to the jumper cables but doesn't start, I just theorized that it was drawing too much power, causing it not to spark. I also thought you were trying to have me test the starter which is why i just pulled it and had it tested so there's no need for the attitude over a simple misunderstanding. I'm not good with electrical diagnosis and have the most basic knowledge about electrical systems, hence the fact that I'm posting for help with an issue that no one can seem to figure out. If you aren't ok with me not completely understanding every little thing you say about something I'm new to, then dont help. And I didn't imply the head gasket had anything to do with the starter, I was talking about the timing which it did effect

 

I ask you to do the tests a specific way to get an idea of what exactly is happening, i know you said it cranks when you jump it, I can read.

For me to help, I need to know what happens when you do the tests I ask you to do, once I know what happens with a particular test, I would ask you to do others to narrow down the problem.

Troubleshooting is hard enough when the car is under your nose, it gets a lot harder over the Internet, and harder still if tests are not performed as asked.

I try and make the tests and explane how to do them as simply as I can, to make it easy to understand by anybody.

If you are going to get your panties in a knot because I ask you to do the tests I ask so I can help, then how about this, don't ask and I will not help.

Pretty easy.94

 

Just saying, I didn't understand what the test was for because you hadn't explained any of that, I just assumed you were having me test the starter so I just had it done, that's no reason to get pissy with me. A simple "that's not what the test was for, you still need to do this" would have been sufficient. I'll try it when i can

 

I did the tests and my results were:
lead from the solenoid to positive post: only made the starter click
test light from solenoid to negative post: when I'd try to start it the light would come on but it didn't crank.

Charger didn't show that the battery was completely charged so I grabbed the battery from the other teg, checked it with the battery charger (said it was fully charged) tried again, and I got the same results. So I guess I should start with changing the starter's ground and power and then the starter if that doesn't fix it? I believe my manual said my solenoid cant be replaced and that I have to replace the whole starter

Also, sorry for getting snippy back at you, I was having a REALLY bad day at work when i read your 2nd post and even thinking about the car lately makes me wanna light the POS on fire. As unladylike as I may be, girls will still be girls at times I suppose.

 

You have a connection problem, start by redoing the main grounds, batt. to chassis and chassis to engine.

There is no ground going to the starter motor, the motor grounds to the engine, [transmission housing] when bolted into place, the engine/transmission gets their ground from the chassis to engine ground and then from the batt. to chassis ground, this may be a single cable from batt. to engine, [depending on MM&Y of car] with the chassis ground about 1/2 way along that cable.

DO NOT just eyeball these connections, disconnect/clean/reconnect.

If that does not solve the problem, do the same with the main power connections, [batt. to starter, batt. to engine bay fuse box, main fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

You said, "The starter is working" so this is not a starter motor or starter solenoid issue.

You may well have more then one problem, obviously one is a no crank issue, lets solve it first and see if you also have a no start issue, bad ground connections can cause both problems.

No biggie, I can handel snippy. 94

 

The ground from the chassis to trans was frayed and corroded so I already replaced that one, I'll Just start replacing the rest and see.

I'm guessing my theory about the starter drawing too much power isn't an option? That's just what I thought bc it didn't seem like there should be a difference with jumping the car if it were a wiring issue

Also, do you think it may have something to do with the aftermarket wiring? The guy I got it from said the remote start kills the battery so it has me wondering if I should have someone make sure it's correct or reinstall it.

 

The remote start will not be the issue for the no crank problem, the bypass jump, "bypasses" all that, the bypass jump supplies power directly to the starter solenoid, that is the reason for the bypass jump, to elliminate all wiring switches, [remote starts] as a possible problem.

The remote start should not be killing the batt., so if it is, there is definatly a problem, however a remote start is basicly a parallel connection, so unless there is a miswire of some sort, the problem is in the remote start brain.

Depending on how the remote start is wired, it may be the cause of the no start problem, [even when jumping and engine cranks].

Can you take a pix of the remote start wiring and post it?

Do you have a 12V test light, [not LED type]?
If so connect the ground clip to the batt. neg.(-) and touch the probe to the engine/transmission, [any metal part] and have someone try and crank the engine, does the test light light up? 94

 

I bought the same test light you had in your write up, looks kinda like a screwdriver with a clear plastic handle, idk if that's the same type you're talking about now or not lol. If not I'll go buy the right one and try it.

There is a little storage tray to the left of my steering wheel, inside there they have a clear plastic little box that lights up red momentarily if i flick it or shut the door, next to it there is a little toggle switch and a little black push button. I dont know if that's the remote start or not bc the car also has an alarm, keyless entry and tilt sensors. I have a pic of it I can post though. The light still flickers on whether the toggle switch if off or on and the button seems to do nothing. idk if that info means anything but I guess it cant hurt to mention it. I can try to get some pics of the wiring by the fuse box after work if needed

 

Here it is

 

and is there any way to test the wires with a voltmeter rather than rewiring all of it? I feel like thats gonna be time consuming and I don't get much time to work on it

 

Looks like you have an alarm/remote start, the button is valet/programing, the switch is a service switch, [on/off] for the remote start, the plastic case is an impact sensor for the alarm.

If those are an indication of the alarm/remote start install, I do not need to see any more to know it is a crappy install.

The valet/program button shold be hidden, the impact sensor should be mounted, not stuffed into a coin tray.

I would have to see more of the wiring to see if it may be a problem, the lower trim panel woukd have to be removed.

If your test light has an ordinary light bulb in it, [and not an LED] then it is the correct one. 94

 

Figures, I'll try to get pics in a minute, it'll be quite a task in the worlds smallest 1 car garage but I'll see what i can do. lol

 

Tried the new test you gave me (had the right test light) and it did not light up. Here's the pictures, let me know if you need to see anything else

 

Wow, just wow, that is a mess, wires coming and going in all directions.

What is that pad switch for, the one hanging at the upper right corner of the alarm/remote start brain in 1st pix?94

 

I dont know. The ground you can see screwed on there in the pic goes to it, there's a wire that clips onto another and goes into the fuse box, a white wire that's folded and taped (like they do when they dont need to use it) and one that goes through the fire wall and comes out of the harness near the alternator below the IM. I actually noticed that wire this morning while I was poking around in there and have no idea where it's supposed to plug in. It's not (visibly at least) connected to the brain in any way. I tried googling it and i think it has something to do with my headlights

 

The wire that is conneced to the fuse box along with the other lead, is it the orange one connected with the white one and plugged into the fuse box using a red quick disconnect?

If so it is most likely illumination, the white lead is most likely from the alarm/remote start, [park light flash] turn on the head lights, do the LEDs on the pad light up?

If so it may be a controller for some "pimp my ride" underglows or something, if the lead in the engine bay is not connected to anything i would remove the switch.

With that said and the condition of the alarm/remote start install. I would remove the alarm/remote start and all it's wiring also and put the cars wiring back to stock.

The alarm/remote can be renistalled, [properly] at a later date if you still want it, you shoiuld not have a remote start in a standard transmission car anyway, too much chance of damage to the car if remote started in gear.

The alarm portion can still be reinstalled.

What I would like to see is the connections of the "heavy gauge" leads, most likely at the ign. switch harness.

The heavy gauge leads come from the relay pack, it is at the end of that ribbon cable. [plug at far right of brain, fallow it to the relay pack, then the leads from the relay pack to where they are connected.

If the relay pack has a green lead and a violet lead that are connected to a cut black/white in the ign. harness, [starter cut/anti grind relay] it may be part of your problem, also if there are any single relays wired into the ign. harness black/yellow lead. [ign. power] for "ign. kill", that may also be a cause of the no start. 94

 

Purple wire goes into some insulation. On the other end is a thick white wire and a couple of smaller ones (I think they were blue) and they go into a plug. The green wire goes to a thick black/white one. Raged out before I could check for other relays but didn’t notice any

When I turn on the head lights, the pad (it has 3 lights) will light up red. Push hi/low, it turns orange. Hit on/off, back to red, hi/low again, turns green. Had my boyfriend watch the lights as I did this and he saw no change. Catz makes something that makes the HID bulbs move up and down so they double as hi and low beams, idk if that’s what this is supposed to be.

I think I’m going to try your original suggestions first because they’re easier. Is there absolutely ANYTHING else I can do to rule the aftermarket wiring out. Any tests with a multimeter or other tools, disconnecting any certain ground/power wires or fuses? Absolutely anything. I had a massive anxiety attack just trying to even get to the wires you had me look at and I don’t think there’s enough Xanax in the world to get me through the process of removing all of that, much less rewiring it correctly.