ok so i was looking for a grounded/open wire in my car cause i get constant battery drain, but doesnt blow my fuses. tested some of the connectors and wires and heres what i got:

from C131 (Continuity) to ground
pin #19 (blu/wht), i got a reading of 1.724 MOhms(Mega Ohms?)?
pin #7 (grn) 184.7 Ohms
pin #8(grn/blk) -2.xxx MOhms goin down to positive. (eg. -2.1 after 5 sec -1.5)<<<(not exactly how it was but you get the idea)

Gauge Connector
B #15 (Blk/Wht) 82 Ohms
B #10 (Yel/Blk) 40 Ohms
C #1 (Yel) 82 Ohms
C #4 (Yel) 82 Ohms
E #5 (Yel) 82 Ohms
F #5 (Yel) 82 Ohms

KEyless Control Unit Connector (18 Pins)
#4 (Blk/Yel) 81 Ohms

still have a lot. anyone can explain me how to read this? which ones are bad? which is good? THEY ARE ALL TESTED CONTINUITY TO GROUND (RESISTANCE)
and according to the service manual most of the wire that had a reading is from the "Ignition Input" ???

Every power line shouldnt have continuity to ground right? unless the switch is open/always close(turned on)?

 

Bump

 

I'm not sure it was tested correctly. For continuity, a close circuit should show 0 on the multimeter. An open circuit (or problem) would get a reading (go toward infinity).

I would double check your settings because the above data doesn't really correspond to what I just said - unless all your connectors have a problem.

 

well, i use a Fluke 117 DVOM and it was set on the ))))) sign. i know it was suppose to read 0 unless the switch on that wire was ON(close circuit) which was impossible cause i unplugged all the connectors from the switches. whenever i touch the prob to a pin, it beeps for a sec and will give me that reading. 1 more question, an exosed copper, cut wires, make a wire/connection bad ofcourse, but is it just that 2 that contributes to a wire being bad? what else should i look for? how do i fix one if i found one?