I have a 99 civic ex. I accidently bought the kit for a dx. Will the parts fit? From what I researched the spark plugs will fit not sure about the other parts. I'm not concerned about the air filter but more concerned about the other parts on this kit.


I also bought synthetic for my car which is at 168k. Will my car be fine if I'm not sure its ever used synthetic before?

 

ur oil is fine, just don't change back and forth from convntial to synthetic. what all other parts did you get?

 

Automotive Engine Tune Up Parts Kit Honda Civic LX DX CX 1.6L 1996-2000. This kit includes: engine oil filter with new drain plug washer, engine air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, PCV valve grommet, distributor cap, ignition rotor, NGK wire set and four NGK spark plugs. The spark plugs are NGK V-Power. The cap and rotor are Daiichi or YEC or made in Japan The part number for the spark plugs is ZFR5F-11 or stock number 2262. This kit is designed to service 4 cylinder Honda Civic's year's 1996-2000 with 1.6L, D16Y7 engine's This kit does not service Si or HX models. International Addresses (not in the United States) Please contact us first for shipping costs before purchasing item's (Thanks) If you do not see a kit listed for your vehicle, contact us and we will make one up and offer for sale.

thats from the description. I know the spark plugs have the same part number. I'm assuming the wires will fit as well. Correct me if i'm wrong of course. not sure about the other parts

 

I have to point out that this is a myth.

There are zero consequences from switching between synthetic to conventional or conventional to synthetic. Hell, a lot of people use synthetic during the winter and then conventional during the rest of the year.

The whole once you go synthetic, you can never go back is false and honestly, I think it's a marketing scam.

 

Not entirely true, if you switch to synthetic with a high mileage motor that has been using regular oil, there may be consequences. Synthetic oil will clean the inside of the motor as well as lubricate, which can mean it will clean out any oil gunk that has built up to create a "seal" from leaking, once it's cleaned, the oil can find its way out. I've seen it time and time again.

If it's low miles, and you use conventional and switch to synthetic once or twice on accident, it will be fine. I'm talking about higher mileage motors, which most of our cars have.

 

This is what i heard as well. And hopefully don't reap the consequences.

anyone have an answer to my other question about the parts?

 

Are you talking about modern day synthetic? Because I have never had this issue before, ever.

When synthetic oil was first introduced to the market, the compounds inside the oil had different effects on the internal seals of an engine. This is probably how the myth originated because originally synthetic did not contain the distillates that conventional oil did. Long story short, conventional oil caused the internal seals of an engine to expand. While synthetic caused the seals to revert back to the their original size thus causing leaks.

However nowadays, conventional and synthetic have very similar distillate and detergent levels. So there really shouldn't be any issue switching between the two now but I suppose it's always better to be careful then sorry.

 

There are no consequences for switching at all. Anyone that tell you other wise are usually douche salesmen trying to keep you from switching to conventional because its cheaper. On the high mileage part, there is a better chance your car has some sort of leak if you have ridiculously high miles on your car. The additives in synthetic oils have the ability to help slow leaks so it is better to switch. Or use a high mileage blend like mobil1 high mileage 5w30.

Info source: i work at Jiffy Lube.

 

That there is an incorrect statement..


Mix them all you want...


The whole "syn will clean out the sludge and make you leak" is just as bogus as the other statement..


Conventional oils have more additives than synthetic just to keep it stable...

Simply put, today's latest API standards keep oil on the straight and narrow...

Today's conventional oils aren't far behind synthetic... If it isn't already and not labelled..


Motorcraft super premium conventional oil for example...

Its basically semi synthetic.. But labelled conventional..

 

Thanks guys I'll keep this in mind. I was just a little worried as a buddy of mine informed me it may cause issues. I already picked up the oil so well have to see. I'm hoping you guys are right.

any idea on the part fitment from dx to ex?

 

You can always go trial and error. Go throw the parts on, if they dont fit youll know. The oil drain plug gasket will fit. There are only 2 honda drain plugs out there and they use the same gasket size. Other then that i cant help ya. If your skeptical about the plugs just go buy ones you know will fit and use the rest of the kit.

 

Everything should fit except the air filter.. And possibly the PCV...

 

I actually took the time to reference the part #'s on the PCV...


Its not going to work...

the DX (D16Y7) PCV has a 90 degree bend... The one for the ex(D16Y8) is straight...

It might work if you add some tubing, but PCV's last a long time... And usually when they fowl, you can soak them with parts cleaner and they work like new again..

That being said, if the grommet is dry, you will probably stretch it when you take the PCV out... And when you reinstall, it might pass air...

Unmetered air is never good..

 

also, the heat range on the plugs is different from a Y7 to Y8


The plugs are the same, the heat range isn't..

ZFR511-DX

ZFR611-EX

 

Using synthetic oil in a high mileage motor (100,000+) WILL result in oil consumption. I don't care what any of the other jiffy lube experts say, go ahead and try it if you want. If you HAVE to use synthetic use a high mileage or a synthetic blend.

 

Ill have to disagree with the oil consumption part but other then that isnt that exactly what i said but with a less douche tone???

 

Explain to all of us why that is...


Because it makes no sense..

 

So i'm confused now.. the plugs wont fit? neither will the PVC? what about the distributor and wire? ignition rotor?

I really don't want to go down the trial and error route in case something goes wrong i wouldn't have transportation either..

if everything works besides the PVC and grommet thats fine i can always pick one up shouldn't be too expensive.

my car is at 168. believe the motor is at 100k ish.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

Distributor cap will work..

Oil filter and washer will work..

Wires will work..

Fuel filter will work..

Air filter won't work..

PCV won't work.. (clean your existing one, and use the new grommet)

Plugs will technically work... (But are a different heat range... I wouldn't use..)

If the plugs came in the little NGK box's just take them to the nearest parts store and say "I bought these plugs but was given ZFR5 NGKs, I need the ZRF6 NGK's" I'd like to exchange plz....

Good luck

 

what about the ignition rotots?

you think they'd exchange it with no problem without a receipt? autozone is the closed auto part spot?
If it does work should i upgrade them? I was shipped Vpower. platnium or iridium any better? laser?

whats the best to clean the PCV? Sounds like the best idea if i can clean it perfectly.

you absolutely sure everything else will work fine? on the NGK site the wires have diff part numbers.

Thanks for all the advise. I'm just a little nervous to start working on the car and have everything mess up. I don't have the time and money to buy the correct set. Because i'd have to pay return shipping then wait for the company to ship the one i need and pay the restock fee + shipping + the difference.

 

So why exactly can't you just return the wrong kit to Amazon and buy the right one?

 

It will all work minus the air filter. The pcv has a bend but usually it's a add on 90* plastic you can pop off.

 

Because that's time and money I don't have. If I can use this kit without a problem I will.

 

the rotor will work... It falls under the same P# as the distributor cap..

There is no benefit to running an expensive plug other than they last longer..

Just use the V power plugs.... Exchange the ZR511 for the ZR611... The only difference in the plugs is the heat range ZR5 is hotter... Could cause detonation eventually..

Try the wires... If they fit, use them...

You've got all the info you need.. Now go try it..

And pay the **** attention next time you order something online...

Good luck..

 

Thanks for the help.

All the parts work fine installed everything except the PVC. I ended up calling NGK and autozone to verify if the plugs and wires would work. they both stated they are the same part number.

Car runs a lot smoother, but well definitely find out on my way to work tomorrow.