question about catalytic converter CALIFORNIA
i just took my car in for a smog test and the guy failed me for the test because the test group name for my cat was wrong and was not made for ULEV use in CA btw i have a 2000 honda accord 2.3 ex he looked under my hood and checked the serial number/group number it was something like yhnxv02.3pl4 but he checked on magnaflow and from the website he showed that only the yhnxv02.3pa or 3pf3 were qualified for my car the question is im looking around google by typing in the yhnxv02.3pl4 and it actually matches the car i have w/o putting in my cars make and model so anyone know wats going on
YHNXV02.3PL4 is your Accord's Engine Family Number (EFN).
The California CARB approved converters that Magnaflow list for a 2000 Accord 2.3L are only for EFN: YHNXV02.3PA3, YHNXV02.3PF2, and YHNXV02.3PF3. Therefore, even if you had a Magnaflow converter, it was not listed as approved for your engine.
The California CARB approved converters that Magnaflow list for a 2000 Accord 2.3L are only for EFN: YHNXV02.3PA3, YHNXV02.3PF2, and YHNXV02.3PF3. Therefore, even if you had a Magnaflow converter, it was not listed as approved for your engine.
okay since my accord's engine family number is 2.3PL4 how can i pass smog even if my converter that i will purchase is 3pa3 or 3pf2 or watever that was approved the sticker would not match the converter since thats my efn
when i purchase the converter it still wouldnt change the efn so im still lost
unless the converter i purchase can provide me with the new sticker?
when i purchase the converter it still wouldnt change the efn so im still lost
unless the converter i purchase can provide me with the new sticker?
Last edited by mrlong916; Mar 1, 2013 at 09:31 PM. Reason: added info
You will have to use a converter that matches your car. The aftermarket may not support such a model, and then you may be at the mercy of Honda to provide you with the correct part.
I was just checking the price for a cal spec ULEV here in MA. This is what I found.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mp...a/model/accord
Brand: MagnaFlow
Manufacturer's Part Number: 446615
Part Type: Catalytic Converters
Product Line: MagnaFlow California 40000 Catalytic Converters
Summit Racing Part Number: MPE-446615
UPC: 841380074928
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mp...a/model/accord
Brand: MagnaFlow
Manufacturer's Part Number: 446615
Part Type: Catalytic Converters
Product Line: MagnaFlow California 40000 Catalytic Converters
Summit Racing Part Number: MPE-446615
UPC: 841380074928
This is old news by now ... a year later ... but the above posts do not clarify what you need. The engine family YHNXV02.3PL4 ... there are only three catalytic converters approved by the state of California for it. This engine family includes the ULEV honda accord - ultra low emissions - for the 2.3L engine. We have the same engine in our 2000 accord.
If you want to look it up yourself:
https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/PartsSearchTo...earchTool.aspx
The direction from California comes CA Executive order D-193-114
Here are the ONLY approved part numbers
Car Sound Exhaust System Inc. 456054 (weld-it-in with a 2" flange)
Car Sound Exhaust System Inc. 456055 (weld-it-in with a 2 1/4" flange)
Car Sound Exhaust System Inc. 456083 (direct fit)
NAPA sells them. OReilly has some of them. Places like rockauto.com, partswarehouse.com, PartsGeek.com do NOT have them. Prices are about $425 (w taxes) for the weld-it-in models, and about $550 for the direct fit. Dealer quote, just for the converter, was about $1,300 (sales tax is extra). (as of 4/7/14)
If you want to look it up yourself:
https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/PartsSearchTo...earchTool.aspx
The direction from California comes CA Executive order D-193-114
Here are the ONLY approved part numbers
Car Sound Exhaust System Inc. 456054 (weld-it-in with a 2" flange)
Car Sound Exhaust System Inc. 456055 (weld-it-in with a 2 1/4" flange)
Car Sound Exhaust System Inc. 456083 (direct fit)
NAPA sells them. OReilly has some of them. Places like rockauto.com, partswarehouse.com, PartsGeek.com do NOT have them. Prices are about $425 (w taxes) for the weld-it-in models, and about $550 for the direct fit. Dealer quote, just for the converter, was about $1,300 (sales tax is extra). (as of 4/7/14)
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Ugh California sucks... What about cat-back exhaust or headers? Are there any carb legal systems that flow more freely, or is the cat the most restrictive point, making freer flowing headers/cat-back systems sort of pointless?
Cool, so does that mean anything past the cat is legal to use on the street in CA as long as it meets noise restrictions, or is there another requirement besides CARB (for safety, etc.)
And what about headers... I've heard DC headers are CARB legal, are there other brands that will pass smog and be legal for use in CA?
And what about headers... I've heard DC headers are CARB legal, are there other brands that will pass smog and be legal for use in CA?
The only restriction is noise and that is based on each individual city.
Just stick with OEM exhaust manifold. The DC Headers are junk. I can not be any more clearer on that and they don't stand by their product if and when it goes bad, assuming it's not bad out of the box.
Just stick with OEM exhaust manifold. The DC Headers are junk. I can not be any more clearer on that and they don't stand by their product if and when it goes bad, assuming it's not bad out of the box.
Pretty much this.
DC Sports headers are made of too thin material and the primaries are too short for thermal expansion. They will crack. Holmes had his downtube crack, I and many others usually have one of the primaries crack. The welded areas are susceptible to cracking.
If you do purchase a set warranty them before the warranty runs out, because they WILL crack.
As for 'high flow cats' the only difference is there is less material inside the catalyst for reduction and oxidization of the gases.
In other words you will not find any performance from replacing a function catalyst for a 'high flow' catalyst of the same diameter, but will more likely fail a test.
Outside of pulling the head for port work, reducing reciprocating weight, or changing camshafts and having a proper tune done, there is little work that can be done to the engine to improve horsepower numbers. Exhaust can be restrictive, so that is an easy fix. Honda did a pretty good job overall with the engine.
Now if you want to improve your acceleration, you will want to change out your transmission. This will be, by far, the greatest change. But at the cost of MPGs.
DC Sports headers are made of too thin material and the primaries are too short for thermal expansion. They will crack. Holmes had his downtube crack, I and many others usually have one of the primaries crack. The welded areas are susceptible to cracking.
If you do purchase a set warranty them before the warranty runs out, because they WILL crack.
As for 'high flow cats' the only difference is there is less material inside the catalyst for reduction and oxidization of the gases.
In other words you will not find any performance from replacing a function catalyst for a 'high flow' catalyst of the same diameter, but will more likely fail a test.
Outside of pulling the head for port work, reducing reciprocating weight, or changing camshafts and having a proper tune done, there is little work that can be done to the engine to improve horsepower numbers. Exhaust can be restrictive, so that is an easy fix. Honda did a pretty good job overall with the engine.
Now if you want to improve your acceleration, you will want to change out your transmission. This will be, by far, the greatest change. But at the cost of MPGs.
When you say "exhaust can be restrictive," which part of the exhaust system are you talking about? Are there any cat-back exhaust systems for a '94 accord that aren't junk and would improve the flow of exhaust gases?
I know upgrading the exhaust isn't going to make a huge difference, but I'd like to know what my options are if I decide to build up my f22 or swap in an f20b or h22. For now all I'm doing is tinkering with the stock intake (removing the resonator and possibly re-routing the intake tube to a spot behind the headlight/grill that has positive pressure when driving), getting stickier tires, then possibly upgrading the suspension and getting a rear sway bar.
I know upgrading the exhaust isn't going to make a huge difference, but I'd like to know what my options are if I decide to build up my f22 or swap in an f20b or h22. For now all I'm doing is tinkering with the stock intake (removing the resonator and possibly re-routing the intake tube to a spot behind the headlight/grill that has positive pressure when driving), getting stickier tires, then possibly upgrading the suspension and getting a rear sway bar.
I looked at a DX exhaust and the mid-pipe and muffler diameter were smaller than my own EXs factory exhaust. The factory EX exhaust does not have smooth bends where a tongue is used to keep the diameter constant, often called 'mandrel bends'. Although the tool used to bend pipe is called a mandrel. I did replace my exhaust with an über aftermarket system and the engine did seem to rev much more smoothly and easier up to redline.
Quick question. I have a Honda 2006 Odyssey that needs new Cat converter in California. I cannot seem to locate the EFN on the label...can anyone direct me to which number it is...??? Not labeled as EFN! Thanks
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