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Picked up this car a couple of days ago for $2500. So far I know the clutch has to be replaced its not slipping bad but definatly is. Also the breaks need to be done. My goal for this build is an everday driver but still want to get the hp numbers up. NEED ADVICE on how to go about that.

Heres a list of all mods previous owner did:
MiniMe swapped engine and tranny

JDM D15b engine block with D16y8 head

Skunk2 ProSeries intake manifold

AEM fuel pressure regulator

Hasport motor mounts (may need to be replaced)

Intake, headers, full exhaust

P28 ECU chipped and tuned

Stage 2 2cc clutch

adjustable coilovers all around

 

only way to get a considerable amount of power is cam it, turbo, or build the block for high compression. sounds like the easiest for you would be the cam since you already have a p28 and s2 intake mani. pull the head and get it cleaned up maybe ported if you want a little extra. i will be ordering a comp 105300 for my y8 soon. can use stock valvetrain as long as you dont go over the stock rev limiter.

if you want more than say 160ish though id say turbo or tear down the block for high compression.

more than 220-240hp and for reliability youll probly need to turbo and build the block. suprisingly cheap though compared to a b series. about $400 will get you some vitara pistons and custom rods. i believe rcautoworks makes the kit. rated at 500hp.

just keep in mind those rods are like pencils. some people run 250+hp on them but with some magical tuning.

nice buy though. goodluck

 

You gotta love it when a plan comes together.

 

Also I'm noticing 3rd gear is grinding and sometimes reverse. As far as replacing the clutch any tips on one to go with?

 

haha mine too. 2nd 3rd and reverse. i have an f1 stage 2 clutch with an f1 8lb flywheel in mine. starting to have some bearing noise from the release bearing but other than that i love it. but depending on your power goals thats how you should pick your clutch. mine is rated for 235 hp and 215 ft lbs tq. if your daily driving make sure there is springs in the disk.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-RACING-ST...43a6fa&vxp=mtr

the noise isnt too bad yet but if you go with an f1 deffinetly either order an oem throwout bearing or an exedy. that seems to be the only thing i heard of having problems with f1 clutches.

and if you feel comfortable driving a stick and feel like you can adjust to the car deffinetly get a lightweight flywheel. much more torque that these little d series need. like i said mine is 8lb and i never really have a problem with it even in heavy traffic.

also if you want to get rid of the grinding youll have to either crack the case when you get it out and take a look at the synchros or replace it. removing the trans case isnt too hard just dont do it if you dont feel comfortable doing it.


if you do decide to replace it this should help you also to look at a used transmission. if your getting it from someone on craigslist ect just ask if you can open the case before you buy it. the same guy has another video explaining how to inspect them.

 

Swap a B-series in there,don't waste time on the d-series unless you're planning on boosting it. Unless that has low miles you over paid at 2.4K IMHO.

 

I would like to get this build some where near the 200 hp mark. After reading a few reviews seems like allot of peole recoment F1 clutches however im not sure whether or not i need the stage 3 or a stage 2 would work for me

 

When buying a clutch it tells you the max hp/ torque rating. Since your only looking for around 200whp...

f1 stage 2 is ratings are....Horsepower Rating: 272 HP / Torque Capacity: 255 ft/lbs

 

B18c5 type r will get you about 200 ponies and 130 torque

 

found the full clutch kit on ebay an F1 stage 2 for 189 and a mechanic to do the install for around $200.

 

tip: ditch the SOHC and do a swap.

 

i need some info on upgrading the transmition or if i should? 2nd to 3rd grinds and reverve is horrible.

 

Didnt someone already cover this for you

*hint*......read post #5

 

in the long run it would be much cheaper to get your d to 200 whp than swapping a b and getting it to 200.

much past 200 though and youll need to build the block or swap it.

also i already said either replace the synchros or replace the transmission. in your case id say just replace the trans.

 

^Don't know how you came up with that...you can get a decent GSR engine for 2k swap it in you'r self for less than a turbo setup. Much ceaper boosting a D ? no a B swap can be done for less and it's more fun/potential D series can only get you so far.

 

lets not turn this into a D vs B thread.

if he wanted to go with a b then yes you could find a gsr for about 2k BUT for that much he would still probly need to get a header (a nice one at that for 200whp), mounts, axles, ecu, ect.

lets not forget even getting a gsr to 200 whp is a nice chunk of change in itself. for exaple $550-$650 for a set of cams vs ~$280 for a nice comp cam for a d series. a nice intake manifold for a b ~$275, or the skunk 2 he already has on his d.

as far as more fun, a 200 whp d16 and a 200 whp b18 are going to be just as fun. if anything the d is lighter so in theory should be more fun. and potential yes there is more potential with a b than a d but once the block is upgraded there is just as much potential. and at $400 for a set of pistons and rods for a d rated at 500 whp the d is much more cost effective than the b as far as internals go.

i will say again tho if OP thinks he will want more than 200 then yes just go with a swap unless you want to build the d.