if the motor is in the car why not just put it in gear o'O

a good idea non the less, i never thought of it

 

Just do what I did and purchase the proper tool. I think that I spent like $50. It made life a lot easier but be prepared for a breaker bar and one hell of a cheater pipe.

http://reviews.matcotools.com/7535-e...ws/reviews.htm

 

if you refer to the large reversed socket looking thing that fits in the crank MANY of these crank pully's do not use that as they are solid.

 

OP also specified a D15 which is like this as the D16 don't have the holes.

 

yep, i already made the 50mm hex tool for the other d's and b's. this is only for the d15's with the holes around the pulley and not the hex shape. sorry for not typing a bunch, if this is not clear, I would be glad to answer any questions. And, yes, I do know you could buy a nice heavy duty spanner but this is more for an emergency/junkyard/novice. I came up with this at the junkyard today while trying to find the 88 d15b2 small snout pulley (smaller crank snout)...

 

That's a Matco prybar I drew there. It even has the striker cap.

 

theres always some wiseguy who thinks he's giving obvious advice, and shows this tool.

when in fact this is the crx/EF forum, and our generation D series cannot use that tool. the difficulty of locking the crank shaft is the REASON that tool exists and the shape of the pulley changed.

so its misplaced advice.

i think there are several ways to lock the crank pulley. ive seen pulleys crack because of this method, or something similar. but im sure more often than not its successful. whatever works for you, fine.

OP, i wouldnt even bother recommending/showing a ratchet of any quality or origin. always use a breaker bar for high torque situations like this. ive broken both craftsman and snap on ratchets when i was being lazy and didnt feel like grabbing a breaker bar.

 

Long as its lifetime

 

this isnt obvious advice either. you then have to lock the axles some how.

and stepping on the brakes is NOT sufficient.

you could lock the rotors by sticking a screwdriver in each vane, a technique i use commonly for breaking axle nuts loose. but you have all the torsion going thru the drivetrain and axles and the torque is not direct and some of it is lost in stretch of the steel.

best to lock the crankshaft directly, like at the flywheel if possible.

 

If you already have a motor out and tranny off like I have, you can get two bolts that match ur flywheel and put a bar in there also

 

Brakes don't stop the axle from turning? I think my brakes work differently then your............


You can also you the starter to tighten the pulley

 

youve clearly never tried...

 

i have done a similar method as the o/p works good but some times the crank pully does indeed suffer. usually i just drop the oil pan and wedge a piece of wood in between the block and the counter balance on the crank

 

ive used the brake method all but one time I didn't have air tools and the one time I didn't use this method was because the air tools couldn't pull the bolt a a k20a3

holding the brakes has worked for me on D15's D16s a few B20's and one LSVtec.

ive probably pulled the crank pulley off atleast 30 motors due to rebuilding or belt replacement.

 

im sure you dont care that i dont believe you, if indeed youve done it 30 times, but really, when you can overcome your brakes against running the engine, pushing down the pedal is no match to a 10ft cheater bar. and sometimes it takes that much to get the crank pulley bolt off.

it certainly hasnt ever worked for me.

and its not an option with an engine out of the car.

and i dont even know why you would even bother with a b20 or LS vtec or whatever you say is part of the 30 engines youve worked with when there IS the proper hex tool available for those engines.

and finally, like i said, whatever way works for you, great.

 

I don't bother with the tool because im most often working with mini me swaps or stock D series doing timing replacement for other people (little income on the side)

the one K20 I couldn't use the brake method for was because the air gun couldn't pull it AND the motor was on the ground, so I rantwo bolts with the same thread as the flywheel bolts into the crank and used that against the ground to hold it. took a guy damn near standing on the motor to keep it from flipping though lol.

I did have one that I couldn't hold and the impact wouldn't pull (was out of car and I didn't feel like removing the trans to hold at the flywheel),
ended up soaking it in oil for a few hours and after 10min of impact it game.

hardest bolt ive EVER had by hand only took a 2ft cheater to break easily.

if your bolts are THAT seized up maybe the brake method wont work but ive never seen one that hard to get, the brake method DOES work most of the time, granted I do see your point and the possibility of over riding the breaks I SERIOUSLY do not see that happening if you put it in the right gear.. gear ratio's are a awesome thing to have.

 

Your method in this post is pretty good to mimic what the actual Honda tool does.

I suggest an additional bolt and go something more like this




Or just get a tool

 

Haha...