Howdy Gents,

Just had some questions about the break-in procedure on these motors. A little info about the mine first though.

The rebuild consisted entire of new crank and rod bearings, piston rings, valve guide seals and various o-rings (oil pump, balance shafts, oil pickup etc). The original pistons and rods are being used on the original hone as well. Think of it as more of a reconditioning as opposed to a comprehensive rebuild

I know of some different methods for break-in for motors that have fresh pistons rods and/or hones, but do any of those methods change for applications where the original internals are being re-used? I've been looking at these 2 threads:

http://www.preludeonline.com/f28/eng...rticle-205403/
http://www.preludeonline.com/f69/bre...engine-175736/

Pretty much the argument boils down to a "run-hard" or "incremental".

WWHTD?

 

The two sides of the argument are really "baby it" or "beat the hell out of it". I elected to go for a happy medium. I'm not dealing with an H-Series btw, but that isn't a relevant issue in the case of engine break in.

The following is just my opinion on a happy medium method that I've come to after speaking to a few engine builders, reading some information in books, and reading some information online.

First, don't start the engine unless it is on a dedicated break in oil. Joe Gibbs BR-30 was recommended to me. You don't have to use it, just pick any dedicated break in oil. Yes there is a difference between autozone castrol 5w-30 and a dedicated break in oil.

Then, start the engine up, check for leaks(oil, coolant, fuel) and make sure you aren't getting any irregular noises.

After the above has checked out raise the rpm to about 3000 and keep it there until the engine has been at operating temp for 20-30 minutes. To clarify further, 20-30 minutes AFTER it gets to operating temp. It might take 20 mins just to get to operating temp. After that post operating temp 20-30 minute period is over, shut the engine down and let it sit and cool to room temp. Don't start it back up, and try not to shut it off mid-way through the process. Heat cycling is very important. After it has cooled completely, adjust your valves, re-torque your headstuds/bolts if you feel the need to and change the oil filter. You are perfectly fine to leave the same oil you started it up on in there, just change the filter and top up the oil level. Now this is very important, cut open the oil filter that you just removed and inspect every pleat. Make sure you don't have an excessive amount of metal or chunks of metal. If you do, the oil has to be drained, the pan needs to be pulled, and you need to find the source of the metal. Some metal is normal after the first start up. You'll know if you have a normal amount or an excessive amount. It's just a car guy gut feeling thing. Lol

After that's done, drive it for 300 miles on the dedicated break in oil and try to vary the rpms as much as possible, but don't beat on it unless it is at operating temp. Oil does not effectively lubricate until it gets to 150 degrees. In my case, I turned off high cam through the tuning software I'm using and after it was at operating temp I ran it up to 7000 in 3rd gear in low cam and let it engine brake back down in 3rd gear. I did that every 5-10 miles for the first 100 miles. After that, I was a bit more liberal and less concerned. I just drove it how I normally would getting on it every now and then and varying the rpms as much as possible. Still keeping high cam off mind you. Also in that first 300 mile period, try your best to let the engine heat cycle properly. What I mean is try to let it cool down completely before re-starting it if at all possible.

After the 300 mile period with break in oil is over, drain the oil, change the filter, and put in your favorite non-synthetic oil for the next 700ish miles. I used valvoline, it really doesn't matter though. I would again suggest that you cut open the oil filter you just removed and inspect all the pleats. You shouldn't really find any metal. If you find a lot of metal, you need to find it's source in the engine.

At this point, I turned high cam back on and drove the car completely normally. No constant rpm varying, just normal day to day driving.

After you pass the 1000 mile mark, change the filter and put in your favorite synthetic. For me, that is mobile1. It and RP are the only two synthetics I know of that still have enough of their additives left after 8000 miles to effectively lubricate. I still change it every 4000 though.

Some people freak out an say you need to change the oil after initial start up, after the first 20 miles, after 100 miles, after 200 miles, after 300 miles, after 500 miles, and after 1000 miles. I don't subscribe to that theory because I've drained initial start up oil on new builds before and found almost no metal at all. A microscopic amount on the magnetic drain plug, none in the oil, and a minimal amount in the filter. That's why I stand where I stand on changing the oil. Changing it on the above OCD schedule is just a waste of money in my opinion. If it makes you feel better then by all means, do so, but I don't feel it's necessary.

Good luck

 

Thank you very much for the unabridged advice, your technique seems to be similar to most of what I've reading since I made this thread. However until your post I've never heard or seen anything about a break-in oil. After some quick research, I understand completely why something like that would be preferable to normal dino oil for the initial start (keyword: Zinc).

Another good point was to disable the VTEC cam profile. In lieu of doing this via tuning software, I'll probably disconnect the solenoid to prevent engagement while varying the RPM's between 2000-7000 for the first 100, which I'll do in one go.

However, can I do the remaining 200 over the course of multiple sessions? Or would it be best to do it all in one drive?

Also, what brand of filters did you use during the first 2 changes? (after initial start-up/idle and 300-mile)? I know I'm going to eventually be using M1 Synthetic with their filter post-break in, but I was curious about what filter you used during that period.

 

If your just talking about an OEM rebuild there is a OEM procedure, Honda should be able to print it out for you. Fire it up, hold rpm 2-3k for a minute or so... believe it is something along those lines...

aftermarket pistons etc are different process is the same upon fire up and beat on it take it to the dyno...

 

Thanks for the heads-up on that, I'll be checking into that with my local dealer for sure. Might end up doing a combination of this and what 1998GSR had mentioned.

btw, methinks one of your traction bars is in my future

 

You can do the first 300 miles in as many steps as you want, just try to do the first 20 miles in one go. The key is to let the engine heat cycle completely. I know I use that term a lot. Just let it cool down completely before you re-fire it. To further clarify, if you go for a 50 mile drive, get to your destination, then shut the car off, don't re-start it 5 minutes later. Give it an hour or more to cool down.

Initial start-up I used a K&N, first 300 miles I used a K&N. In my opinion they are one of the best oil filters out there. Really though, K&N, Wix, and Mobil1 are all of equal quality. The latest OEM honda oil filters made by Honeywell(Fram) are garbage. The old ones made by Filtec(spelling?) were far superior. Here's a decent thread comparing a few oil filters. Worth having a look if you've got the time. http://www.300cforums.com/forums/gen...dissected.html

 

Thanks for the clarification, this all definitely helps. I'll be sure to update this thread with my progress as the project getting going.