just wanna know how bad your idle is...kind of a description would help. Also what kind of difference in hp can be seen vs stage 2. Ive seen some stage 2 dynos, so if you can just post or tell you #'s that would work 2.
thanks for any feedback.

 

I have crower stage 3 cams...my idle is fine, however I have a custom programmed ecu...

Without cam tuning the engine had 203whp and 160tq....will post some dynos after cam tuning. This is fairly recent. However I recommend switching to an H23 manual tensioner if you get these cams

 

do you think you could make idle reasonable w/ a V-AFC. also have cam gears don't know if that would help at all. and how much were parts for the H23 auto tensioner.
thanks for the help.

 

I'm getting an H23 manual tensioner...I learned the hard way

The cams strain the t-belt too much...manual is the way to go...

I can't say for sure if that would solve it...I'm also run RC 370cc but at stock fp

 

you bought rc's to gain 25cc's from stock?

o, nm, was thinkin you had a jdm motor

 

I'm probably more like 310-330 but yeah just playing it safe. Next step is to retune and up the fuel pressure


[Modified by satan_srv, 8:32 PM 10/21/2002]

 

satan
how
much
was
the
H23
autotensioner
damnspacebardoesn'twork.....SORRY
everybody.

 

Did you get just the straight Stage 3's from Crower or did you get a custom/proprietary grind?

Are you sure your auto tensioner failed because of the cams? Since the cams themselves dont really put any more pressure on the timing belt, maybe the valve springs or over revving.

I've had so many manual tensioners fail on me I'm going to try running my auto tensioner on my engine.

 

I'll double check but I think they are straight stage 3, I don't remember anything specific about them offhand.

Really I was told that the high lift of the cams cause the timing belt to go loose then tight, loose then tight which puts extra pressure on the manual tensioner...I'm sure revving comes into play as well...

How does the manual tensioner fail? The bolt comes loose?

 

ok, so what about the stage 2t cams, would those be harmful on an auto tensioner? i'm about to out the engine back together, and i am to that step, so some good info would be really helpful right about now.

 

where can i find a dyno graph of crower stage 2's on a h22..... maybe even stage 3's......??????

 

where was your peak power satan?

 

6900 or so, but this is without cam tuning...I really don't want peak up around 8000, I like the torque and useable power.

I'll post a graph after I tune the cams

 

Let me know about if you have the straight "race" Stage 3's from Crower, cause if you do and your idle is fine I'm just going to get those rather than spend the $50 getting them to bring the idle lobes down a little bit for a better idle.

Well on a manual tensioner I've found you only get so many times it can be tightened before the bolt will either strip or it will stop tensioning at all. But this is all B series, Ihave zero experience with H series manual tensioners. I'm gonna give my auto tensioner a shot with stage 3's, I'll let ya know how it goes.

 

[QUOTE]Let me know about if you have the straight "race" Stage 3's from Crower, cause if you do and your idle is fine I'm just going to get those rather than spend the $50 getting them to bring the idle lobes down a little bit for a better idle.
QUOTE]

Well it's the straight race cam I found out. But you have to realize over $1000 was spent on ecu tuning...so that's why the idle is good. I can't comment on the idel with your setup unfortunately

 

Satan Srv, are you really running a vtec head on a H23?
HOw do u like it? Would you mind sharing what you've done on the block?

I have a 92 prelude si recently got a H22 swap. So far, with the Type S pistons, ported head/intake manifold and custom cams, I am liking it. However I have the H23 still and thinking of building the H23 block and do a H23 vtec turbo ready motor. I've heard so many negative experiences on H23 vtec and wonder if you have any kind of fix for that. e.g. missing oil squirter below pistons, H23 has a weaker crank? Any help would be appreciated

 

Sure....Darton Sleeves...Arias pistons, H23a rods shot peened, h23 crank knifedged, balanced and lightened. The oil squirters were added to the block.

Bad news though after 10,000kms it has crapped out, not sure what the cause is yet, but it is related to the crank, perhaps just the crank bearing that failed. Either way, I'll know more later but it was hella fast when it ran.

 

lol...yea

i think jgluder had a quote in his sig that explains it best....

it went something like "people that break stuff have more fun, because right before we do break something, we're going a hell of a lot faster than you"

 

you got it....damn I miss it already! The bus is too slow!

 

That's an awesome setup. I wonder why it blew too. What about a custom crank? I called Crower they said they would make one for $2400. Hm........Do you guys know if it is better to put a turbo on a non-vtec more? Wonder if it'll make a lot of different if I just go for a H23 complete motor then turbo instead of H23 vtec....what do you guys think?

 

imo h23 vtec is a waste of time. i know of a few people around here running that and they make good power #'s but the tq curve is shitty and the h23 has a shitty rod/stroke ratio so you cant rev it all that high and you cant put the oil squirters in it cause there aint enough room

 

Torque curve shitty? Hahaha.... anyways the oil squirters fit in mine

 

maybe its the h22 block with h23 crank and rods the oil squirters wont go in. but all i know is corey was rollin a 5g speedvision world challenge preldue that had h23vtec and supposedly puttin down like 220 or 230 hp.... corey is pushin 185 and was walkin his *** down the back straight of LMS

 

THat's strange. I remember I've seen a dyno for a H23 vtec running type S pistons. Eveerything else even exhaust, header and intake were stock. And it dyno at 185 at the wheel. Which is 20+ hp higher than a stock H22 motor.

 

http://www.importreview.com/d_2.3.html

186 hp 151 tq