Hey ht needed to know if I needed a resistor box with these or not?
Don't know if y'all need my setup or not but ill post it

B18c1 engine w/ gsr tranny

Gsr block
-ls crank
-ls rods w/ arp rod bolts
-usdm type r pistons
-acl race bearings
-golden eagle oil squirters plugoff

Gsr head
-supertech dual valve springs
-supertech retainers and keepers
-stock gsr cams and cam gears
-oem 3layer mls headgasket
-skunk2 pro series manni
-4-1 yonaka series2 headers

 

Not sure if it high impedence or low. Asked the guy waiting to see which one they are

 

Nevermind ht found some answers. High impedence injectors don't need no resistors and low impedence need resistors if not ur ecu will fry.

 

How can u tell if they are high or low impedence injectors? Is there a marking or anything on them to tell the difference?

 

You simply check the resistance between the two electrical pins.

2-3 Ohms - Low Impedance (Peak and Hold)
11-13 Ohms - High Impedance (Saturated)

But for quick reference I own a set of Accel 255cc injectors, Part No. 151255. They are Low Impedance (Peak and Hold) and they require the use of a resistor.

 

I don't know the part cause I'm purchasing them used and the guy said he used them on his motor and didn't use a resistor box. But even though he didn't use a resistor I don't want to put them on mine and burn out my ecu.

What do I check them with? I'm not that good on electrical stuff.

 

You need ether an Ohmmeter or a Multimeter that has an Ohm/resistance test selection on it.

Accel did make a set of High impedance 255cc injectors. Part 152255.

Does the guy you are buying them off know the part number or impedance?

 

He doesn't know the impedence, he just told me he ran it without the resistor box fine. I didn't ask for part number I will ask.

Can I get the ohm meter at a local part store and how much do they run?

Thanks for the reply

 

I'm pretty sure you should be able to pick one up at a parts store. If not you can get a digital multimeter at Lowes or Home Depot for $25.00 - $30.00. This is a tool that is a must if you work on your own vehicles. Pretty much all of the ECU error code troubleshooting requires a multimeter at some point. It's a pretty cheap solution compared to throwing parts/$$$ at problems.

 

Ok I got the injectors and used a tester but I borrowed the tester from someone and it don't say ohm on it. But I checked the two pins and read 2, but not sure if its ohm as it doesn't say.

Will any tester work to check the resistance of the injectors?

Also wanted to know wher an I get a resistor box and how much does it cost?

 

Another question will any resistor box work?

I read wher a guy went to radio shack and got one for $5-$10

 

No, the tester has to read resistance. It should have a Ω sign on it and read Ohms.

Yes there are people who solder 4 individual resistors inline on the 12v power wires to the injectors. However, you can pick up an OEM Honda resistor box out of a junk yard or ebay for $20-30. One from any 90-97 Accord and 90-95 Prelude will work. I think there was also an 88-90 Civic the CRX and the OBDO Integra that used them as well.

 

Ok yea that was the sign that the tester switch was on and it read 2. So after seeing that I went to radio shack and picked up 4 10ohm 10watt resistors and I just now got done soldering them to each injector wire. Correct me if I'm wrong but did I do it right?

Cut and splice the black/yellow injector wire and soldered one end on the resistor to injector wire and soldered the other end same way.

 

Thanks for ur help man without ur help I would of fried ecu without even thinkin bout the impedence. ��

 

You cut the 12v wire and soldered the resistor inline. That sounds like you did it the right way. I have never done it that way myself. I was lucky, my Accord came with a resistor box stock. With my new setup I will be using an EMS that uses low impedance injector drivers.

Where did you get the 10ohm resistor number from? When I read the resistance of my OEM resistor box I get 6 Ohms!

 

I found this made it real easy to calculate and install resistors. I read somewhere else if u got 2ohm impedence also get 10watt 10ohm resistors.

I hope I got the right resistor?

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/...ectors-530477/

 

I just know the resistance that I read off my OEM non-inductive resistor box.

Why did you choose a 10 watt? That site shows the use of a 20watt resistor. Did you get a non-inductive one or wire wound? Should be non-inductive.

For what Radio Shack carries, I would have picked their 20w8Ω non-inductive resistor @ $3each.

 

I read on a couple site where people used the same 2ohm with 10watts. I hope that's right but I've been driving the car now and it pulls hard. If its not the right watt resistor please steer me in the right direction.

And wanted to know if I would b ok to use my stock fuel pressure regulator? And when do I need to upgrade it?

I know I've asked other people but all they say is ur stock fpr will b fine, I want to know when to upgrade?

 

To be honest for $20-30 I wold have bought an OEM resistor box..... although this day in age I guess cheaper is better.

No need to upgrade, unless you want to up your fuel pressure to increase the flow of your injectors. Most times people would upgrade their injectors. Unless you know that the spray properties of the fuel injector you have will benefit from a higher pressure. Then you would want to look into an adjustable FPR as well.

Changing your injector size or flow will also require a tune.

 

Ok. So is the 10watt 10ohm ok for me to use or is it holdind me back from power?

Thanks in advance

 

Someone else with personal experience will have to chime in for exact reaction differences. However, I would say 10ohm is a bit high. It could definitely change the stock characteristics of the injectors dead times and would require tuning to get the most out of them.

As far as power goes....
What are you using for tuning?
What have you set the injector offset and injector battery offset too?

 

Man I hope someone can help me out on the resistors, mayb that y I hear like a putt every few seconds I'm thinkin it has something to do with injectors I think????
I'm just using a custom chip for my setup for now till I can get some money saved for an atual dyno tune. How long would a dyno tune b for my setup u think?

Is ther anything I need to do or get before I go dyno?( first time dyno and just want to b prepared lol)

And how much power do u think I should expect?

I'm not sure i understand the last paragraph. (What have you set the injector offset and injector battery offset too?)

 

Best option would be to call your local tuner and ask them the questions you just posted. What you require and how long it will take to tune can differ from shop to shop. So will costs.

The stuff I was talking about at the end about injector offsets has to do with the tune (ROM/Chip) that is running your engine. If you are running a generic basemap it probably isn't set up for those injectors or the resistance you have chosen.

Do you have any way of monitoring your AFR, wideband o2 maybe? If not you should check your spark plugs and see hat they look like. If any of them are chalky white (lean fuel condition) or wet black (rich fuel condition) you should look into getting a tune sooner than later. Or putting your injectors setup back to stock.

Was the engine running properly before this injector instal?

 

Yea I have a apexi turbo timer that I left installed when I swapped out the ls turbo, it has a a/f, battery voltage, and o2 reader. But I don't know how to read the a/f ratios cause its just numbers.

The plugs are kinda of white mix with light grayish and its black on the second thread near the spark. Ive closed the gap to .044in and it was wet with fuel odor so i opened the gap to .052in. And the plug changed to white with light grayish color. Is that good?

It's a motor that spun a rod from 3-4 years ago and I've rebuilt it from the ground up. I didn't use the stock injectors cause couldn't find them so bought these injectors to start the motor with.

 

Also wanted to mention I hear like a clicking noise from my injectors? What does that mean?