ARP head stud's install question
What's going on guy's. So I'm rebuilding my GSR and I opted to get head stud's this time around. So the packaging says to install them hand tight then install head apply lubricant and torque to 80 ft lbs in three steps.. my question is that I've heard that people back then off a half turn to not put stress on the block. Just wanted to get some feed back on how anyone has installed these
What the op is talking about is when your installing the studs, not torquing them. I too have heard to bottom the stud out then back off 1/4-1/2 turn. Can't remember if that's how I did mine, been too long
I always bottom the studs now after I had one come untorqued one time. I thought the OP is talking about torqing the head down to the full value then backing the nuts off and then retorqing to stretch new studs.
If you think that "some people" know better than the engineers at ARP, do what you want; personally I will trust the people who designed it and wrote the instructions and continue to tighten my head studs down.
why the hell would you loosen them? thats retarded. maybe you got confused. I install them by hand with an allen wrench tighten them then back off a quarter turn to make sure all headstuds are in correctly (I do this in sequence with service manual). Then I began to tighten them with torque wrench in sequence.
if you have oil or grease on the bottom of the threads. when you tighten them it creates high pressure under the studs.
sometimes it might crack the alluminum around it.
backing out relieves the pressure in the stud hole.
sometimes it might crack the alluminum around it.
backing out relieves the pressure in the stud hole.
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ARP also recommends cleaning the holes and NOT using motor oil to tighten.
grease doesnt leak down the hole and thats what they recommend
grease doesnt leak down the hole and thats what they recommend
Never back out your studs or bolts after torquing your head down. You make sure the threads are clean, and apply a light bit of ARP fastener lube to the threads going into the block, and you hand tighten with an allen key. I usually let them sit for a day after snugging them up if i can because i find that they will settle afterwards and take a little more torque. But you can do this just by going over them a couple times snugging them up tighter and tighter each time, you dont have to kill it, but just snug them up. I usually do 30-50-80 on my torque wrench, then double check the 80 ft lbs one more time after that.
thats because the pressure is slowly relieved from under the stud.after a day.
depending on how dirty the threads are sometimes air/oil/dirt/greace trapped under the bolt has nowhere to go.
when you tighten it. engine gets hot and whatever is under it expands, then contracts when cold. loosening up the bolts.
at least thats how i interpret it when i asked this from ARP rep.
depending on how dirty the threads are sometimes air/oil/dirt/greace trapped under the bolt has nowhere to go.
when you tighten it. engine gets hot and whatever is under it expands, then contracts when cold. loosening up the bolts.
at least thats how i interpret it when i asked this from ARP rep.
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big-cat
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Sep 14, 2007 12:54 PM




