Slipping Clutch 98 CRV
Hi,
I'm at wits end. I see this problem all over the Internet, in Honda forums, but no solution.
Clutch slips when the car (98 CRV - manual transmission) is warm but works fine when the car is cold.
When I took it to the mechanic and he noticed the slippage he just automatically said that it needs a new clutch, fly-wheel, throw-out bearing, etc.
He did those things and it worked fine for a few months now the same problem again.
People with this same problem have replaced the master cyclinder, slave and tubing (along with the clutch, fly-wheel, TO bearing) and that didn't help.
Pedal is adjusted perfectly (slight free play before it engages the push rod).
Is there a genius out there that can tell me what's wrong?
Help!
Bob P
I'm at wits end. I see this problem all over the Internet, in Honda forums, but no solution.
Clutch slips when the car (98 CRV - manual transmission) is warm but works fine when the car is cold.
When I took it to the mechanic and he noticed the slippage he just automatically said that it needs a new clutch, fly-wheel, throw-out bearing, etc.
He did those things and it worked fine for a few months now the same problem again.
People with this same problem have replaced the master cyclinder, slave and tubing (along with the clutch, fly-wheel, TO bearing) and that didn't help.
Pedal is adjusted perfectly (slight free play before it engages the push rod).
Is there a genius out there that can tell me what's wrong?
Help!
Bob P
Clutch hydraulics will not/can not help with a slipping clutch. They only serve to disengage the clutch. The only things I can think of are the release/throwout bearing isn't sliding smoothly on the tube where the input shaft comes through the bell housing, or the engine has worn thrust bearings and is suffering from "crank walk" I don't understand why it seems to work ok when cold though.
I'm not sure how impressed they'll be about some guy from the internet and his opinion, but that said I can't really think of anything else that would be causing a problem, other than say loose pressure plate bolts, but it would almost have to be a problem all the time, and it would almost have to be making noise.
Yes, the slipping when warm is a real head-scratcher but others, in other forums, have reported the same thing.
Also, before and after replacing their clutch plate and TO bearing and resurfacing the pressure plate. So I don't feel alone, just baffled.
Something is not letting the clutch plate fully engage the pressure plate.
Could oil be seeping into the housing? The engine has about 250,000 mi.
If the mechanic finds out what it is, on Wed., I'll post.
Of course it may not happen again for 3 months.
Bob
Also, before and after replacing their clutch plate and TO bearing and resurfacing the pressure plate. So I don't feel alone, just baffled.
Something is not letting the clutch plate fully engage the pressure plate.
Could oil be seeping into the housing? The engine has about 250,000 mi.
If the mechanic finds out what it is, on Wed., I'll post.
Of course it may not happen again for 3 months.
Bob
Normally if you get oil on a clutch it will be grabby and chatter. If the transmission input shaft seal is leaking it would leak transmission fluid onto the clutch though. If the rear main seal on the engine is leaking it's not such a big deal as the oil just hits the back of the flywheel and flies off.
If you're pulling the transmission again you may want to replace the rear main seal either way if it hasn't been done before, the seal is about $30 and it's very easy to change if the transmission already out. The transmission input shaft seal on the other had requires taking apart the transmission and almost completely disassembling it. It's not something particularly hard, but a lot of shops just plain don't want to open transmissions.
If you're pulling the transmission again you may want to replace the rear main seal either way if it hasn't been done before, the seal is about $30 and it's very easy to change if the transmission already out. The transmission input shaft seal on the other had requires taking apart the transmission and almost completely disassembling it. It's not something particularly hard, but a lot of shops just plain don't want to open transmissions.
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Wow, sounds like a solution, Faster, where did you get the racing plate? I'll have the mechanic put one on. I sure don't need a slipping clutch when I'm 20 miles from home. It cost $10/mile for a tow last time I needed it.
Bob
Bob
The CR-V uses the same clutch as the '94 - '01 Integra, which gives you a ton of different clutch options. That said this really shouldn't be a problem unless you're making a fair bit over stock power.
One possibility is the TOB throw out bearing is wedged somewhere on the quill which is an aluminum sleeve permanently part of the aluminum bell housing. Being aluminum it is prone to wear, groves form and the TOB becomes stuck. Most mechanics aren't aware that honda has a unique grease that doesn't evaporate, dry out or become clumpy due to the heat friction. If the clutch has been replaced using a lesser quality grease for the TOB this could happen as I have spoken to two different acura and honda mechanics. Also the fork has a clip that holds it on a ball which requires grease as well as 3 other spots. In Canada grease is only available from dealerships, a small jar $30. Not sure about the USA. It is usually a special order. If it occurs try engaging the pedal half way or less to see if you can move it. 2005 subaru's have the same issue but they have a repair kit which consists of a stainless steel thin sleeve that goes over the aluminum quill and an oversized TOB,,,,, Honda,,,,?
Slipping clutch plate when warm ---- Okay hears my thoughts on this. The friction material is held on the plate by rivets and because the friction material is at its lowest wear point, this means the rivets when hot and expanded are causing mental on mental hence clutch slip.
Kev
Kev
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