Axle "Tulip" Stuck in Transmission
Greetings,
1989 CRX Si with the "L3" 5-speed manual. Transmission has about 275,000 miles on it.
I'm about at the end of my rope. I have read just about every thread I could find about my problem, and my frustration level is unbelievable.
I am *not* planning on "trashing" the transmission, or getting a new one, etc.
When the engine/transmission was still in the car, the passenger side axle came off very easily with a pry bar. The driver's side did not. The axle would come out about a fraction of an inch and then hang up. I got so frustrated, using my foot with a pry bar, I decided to pull the axle apart and move on with the engine pull.
So now the transmission is on the ground with this driver's side axle "tulip" stuck in it. I have pried, I have hammered, and I have rented a slide hammer and bashed on it until my thumbs are bruised.

My main worry at this point is damaging the differential by continuing to beat on it like this. Punching the axle out from the other end is a seemingly impossible task, because there is a shaft in the way. I can't even see across to see the stuck axle stub.

Does it make sense to have this much of the axle stub out and it still won't budge?
Will I damage this thing if I just keep pounding/prying on it? Is that going to eventually pay off? Are my only options at this point to take the transmission apart?
Do I have to disassemble the entire thing to get at this axle stub? Might it be worth my while to just go ahead and overhaul it at this point (new bearings/seals/clean the magnet), since I really, really hate pounding on this poor thing. I even rigged up a press using sockets and a C-clamp to avoid pounding out the "bitch pin" way back when I was removing the engine. It makes me wince each time I hammer on this precision mechanism.
I think it wants me to overhaul it.
New axle seals, new input shaft bearing, etc. and while I'm in there I can clean all of the metal shavings off of the magnet and get a look at the gears and shift forks...
My goals are to restore to as stock as possible, so I'm really interested only in restoring the original drivetrain.
In for a penny, in for a pound, eh?
Thank you very much in advance if you have some advice to offer.
1989 CRX Si with the "L3" 5-speed manual. Transmission has about 275,000 miles on it.
I'm about at the end of my rope. I have read just about every thread I could find about my problem, and my frustration level is unbelievable.
I am *not* planning on "trashing" the transmission, or getting a new one, etc.
When the engine/transmission was still in the car, the passenger side axle came off very easily with a pry bar. The driver's side did not. The axle would come out about a fraction of an inch and then hang up. I got so frustrated, using my foot with a pry bar, I decided to pull the axle apart and move on with the engine pull.
So now the transmission is on the ground with this driver's side axle "tulip" stuck in it. I have pried, I have hammered, and I have rented a slide hammer and bashed on it until my thumbs are bruised.

My main worry at this point is damaging the differential by continuing to beat on it like this. Punching the axle out from the other end is a seemingly impossible task, because there is a shaft in the way. I can't even see across to see the stuck axle stub.

Does it make sense to have this much of the axle stub out and it still won't budge?
Will I damage this thing if I just keep pounding/prying on it? Is that going to eventually pay off? Are my only options at this point to take the transmission apart?
Do I have to disassemble the entire thing to get at this axle stub? Might it be worth my while to just go ahead and overhaul it at this point (new bearings/seals/clean the magnet), since I really, really hate pounding on this poor thing. I even rigged up a press using sockets and a C-clamp to avoid pounding out the "bitch pin" way back when I was removing the engine. It makes me wince each time I hammer on this precision mechanism.
I think it wants me to overhaul it.
New axle seals, new input shaft bearing, etc. and while I'm in there I can clean all of the metal shavings off of the magnet and get a look at the gears and shift forks...
My goals are to restore to as stock as possible, so I'm really interested only in restoring the original drivetrain.
In for a penny, in for a pound, eh?
Thank you very much in advance if you have some advice to offer.
Last edited by tonekids; Feb 16, 2013 at 10:26 AM. Reason: s/winch/wince/g
Using 2 pry bars @ same time opposite each other usually removes the "stubborn" axles,but your snap-ring on end might be mangled causing it to stick...
the only thing in there that can hold it up is the snap ring. if the transmission worked fine prior to the pull you will have to just keep forcing it, just make sure you get the ring out after because it will probably stay in the trans, you can pick these trannys up very cheap (I got 2 dx and 1 si for $100 combined) but I understand wanting to stay stock for restoration purposes. if its come out that far theres no way its seized up.. if you have access to the equipment you could try mounting it to the ground or wall and pulling with a cherry picker (engine lift) or a winch of some sort.
I congratulate you on trying to spare the trans, I would have done hooked it between my hatch and my bro's rsx via chains and pulled till it came or started spinning lol.
I congratulate you on trying to spare the trans, I would have done hooked it between my hatch and my bro's rsx via chains and pulled till it came or started spinning lol.
Could you try something similar to a ball joint fork maybe?
Obviously a ball joint fork is too small, but i'm sure you could figure out how to make something similar real quick.
That way all the force would be focused on pushing the tulip up and out only.
Obviously a ball joint fork is too small, but i'm sure you could figure out how to make something similar real quick.
That way all the force would be focused on pushing the tulip up and out only.
that could work but as much trouble as hes having its likely to just flare the end of the fork lol..
Thanks for all of the great replies, folks.
Yeah I gave up on it until I come up with a "Plan E".
I wish I could see across from the other side so I could get a look at what's holding it up. I don't think any major damage has occurred yet, and my thumbs are black and blue from hammering with the 5 lb. slide hammer w/axle fork attachment.
Perhaps it is time to start increasing the amount of force required.
Regarding the pry bars, I jury-rigged up some giant convincer bars and then carefully lowering myself down from a step ladder, bounced on them with my full 220 lb. weight and nothing doing. Slide hammer so far has been fruitless.
Someone mentioned getting my big grinder out and grinding the cup off of the axle. Then I can crack the case open and press the stub out, but I didn't want to open the transmission. Maybe it wants me to.
So...I might have to screw up my courage and try the engine hoist method next...gulp.
Thanks again for all of the great advice!
Yeah I gave up on it until I come up with a "Plan E".
I wish I could see across from the other side so I could get a look at what's holding it up. I don't think any major damage has occurred yet, and my thumbs are black and blue from hammering with the 5 lb. slide hammer w/axle fork attachment.
Perhaps it is time to start increasing the amount of force required.
Regarding the pry bars, I jury-rigged up some giant convincer bars and then carefully lowering myself down from a step ladder, bounced on them with my full 220 lb. weight and nothing doing. Slide hammer so far has been fruitless.
Someone mentioned getting my big grinder out and grinding the cup off of the axle. Then I can crack the case open and press the stub out, but I didn't want to open the transmission. Maybe it wants me to.
So...I might have to screw up my courage and try the engine hoist method next...gulp.
Thanks again for all of the great advice!
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