Burning Oil poor mans ITR +
Sup guys, So here is my setup -
-Toda Built B16 head
-GSR Block with ITR internals
-ITR Trans
Swap came out of an OBD1 and is now in an OBD2 SI. I have the P28 that was tuned on Chrome in the car now. I test drove the car before I bought the motor and the only time you could smell oil was when you were in 7-9k rmps. It is currently @ 11:5 comp.
When driving normal there was no burning oil and when running idle there was no burning oil out of the exhaust. Well now I am getting both. We did a COMP test and they said the results were normal.
I am guessing off of what I have read and other people I talked to it is most likely hardend valve seals that need to be replaced (wont harm anything but need to keep an eye on my oil levels)? Any other suggestions as to what might be causing this? Possibly a Head gasket? Or the tune its on is running to rich? Appreciate anything you can think of or if you had the same problem what it was. thanks!
Maybe just spill over burning off from doing the swap itself? I don't understand how or why this would be or why it would be coming out of my exhaust though.
-Toda Built B16 head
-GSR Block with ITR internals
-ITR Trans
Swap came out of an OBD1 and is now in an OBD2 SI. I have the P28 that was tuned on Chrome in the car now. I test drove the car before I bought the motor and the only time you could smell oil was when you were in 7-9k rmps. It is currently @ 11:5 comp.
When driving normal there was no burning oil and when running idle there was no burning oil out of the exhaust. Well now I am getting both. We did a COMP test and they said the results were normal.
I am guessing off of what I have read and other people I talked to it is most likely hardend valve seals that need to be replaced (wont harm anything but need to keep an eye on my oil levels)? Any other suggestions as to what might be causing this? Possibly a Head gasket? Or the tune its on is running to rich? Appreciate anything you can think of or if you had the same problem what it was. thanks!
Maybe just spill over burning off from doing the swap itself? I don't understand how or why this would be or why it would be coming out of my exhaust though.
I'm guessing you rebuilt the motor after you pulled it from the donor car, correct?
I had the same exact problem after my rebuild. Had the valve seals replaced and that didn't help. Eventually figured out that the guy who did the cylinder hone for me messed up and made my cylinder walls oval. Did you gape and clock the rings( if the motor was rebuilt)?
I had the same exact problem after my rebuild. Had the valve seals replaced and that didn't help. Eventually figured out that the guy who did the cylinder hone for me messed up and made my cylinder walls oval. Did you gape and clock the rings( if the motor was rebuilt)?
We didnt rebuild the motor, We pulled it because I drove it for about an hour before I bought it. Dropped it out of the car it was in the same day and started working on the swap with mine.
I don't have the results other than the shop calling me and telling me everything was fine. Have not heard back from them yet. However I made an apointment wed. To have a wet comp test and leakdown done just to be on the safe side. So when I get my car tonight I am just going to drive it home and let it sit until then.
Turns out it was just burn off.... There is no oil smell in the car and zero coming out of the exhaust.. Last night I got to finally get on the car on a wide open street in a factory district late night and all I can say is WOW!!! 200whp with it pulling hard all the way through 9k rpms is seriously impressive. I do need a new thermostat and there is something going on with my throttle body, I was surging last night between 1k and 1.5k rpms until I turned the car off and back on. Also breaks are a must now, So I just placed an order for new slotted rotors and hawk pads all around and new ss lines.
As far as oil I am trying out Eneos.
As far as oil I am trying out Eneos.
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in my experience its rarely the oil control rings that are bad. headgaskets blow and ring lands will break before the rings break.
if the comp. and more importantly leakdown are good, the oil is likely coming from the top end. visible oil wet in the cylinder is probably an intake valve seal, wet oil in the exhaust port/exhaust is the exhaust valve seal.
ive also found that valve seals can go bad quick after replacement if the engine sees high
cyl temps a lot, if it sees high rpm a lot, or if it is just old and the guides/valve stems are worn ever so slightly it will beat up the seals.
if the comp. and more importantly leakdown are good, the oil is likely coming from the top end. visible oil wet in the cylinder is probably an intake valve seal, wet oil in the exhaust port/exhaust is the exhaust valve seal.
ive also found that valve seals can go bad quick after replacement if the engine sees high
cyl temps a lot, if it sees high rpm a lot, or if it is just old and the guides/valve stems are worn ever so slightly it will beat up the seals.
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