my 1995 honda integra reliable ls/vtec build and question thread

1995 b1 block stock bore complete block rebuild
hot-tanked
polished crank
rehoned etc

new b16 pistons & rings
shotpeened Ls rods
ARP rod bolts
GSR water and oil pump
stock pulley
GSR timing belt
golden eagle ls-vtec conversion kit with steel braided lines

b16 head rebuilt
port and polish
milled .030
new vtec selenoid
stock valvetrain titanium retainers
skunk2 adjustable cam gears
skunk2 intake manifold
hayman fuel rail with magnaflow adjustable FPR
RC 370 injectors
cold air intake w/ steel braided line to the head
steel braided fuel lines

rebuilt ls tranny with gsr 1st and 2nd gear
Chipped GSR ecu
4-1 headers 2.5in exhaust no name
running on 91 octane and 5w-30 full synthetic
12:1 compression
about 11k on rebuild

probably about 190hp right now, working on get 245whp
work in progress
-skunk 2 valves dual valve springs titanium retainers and cams all stage 2
all new rebuild on head with new valve stem seals etc. ( little bit of smoke at high rpm due to my current valve stem seals
-virgin p72 ecu + hondata s300 for full tune
rebuilt b16 tranny with LS 5th gear
eventually ITB setup

pictures will be posted soon

 

did you need to have your ls rods machined on the small end to fit into the b16 pistons?

 

Great setup, after you go through with the last stuff on your list it will be awesome. Have fun with it.

 

 

 

 

 

Just looking @ your build specs and pretty sure you mean head is shaved 3thousandths (.003), not 30 thousandths (.030). No biggie, almost everyone screws up on decimal points. Nice clean lookin ride, glad to see someone else w/o a wing.

 

I thought the GSR and LS first and second gear were the same!!

 

Ok- well my gsr head is shaved .010 and its about all I could take off without having to grind up my piston valve reliefs running gsr cams, which aren't very much lift compared to most perf cams. I just hope you never have to pull head again b/c it'll be scrap alum after if your @ max serv limit. Don't forget to adjust your cam gears to compensate for head mill- which "re-zeros" cam timing, otherwise cam timing will be pretty off. Ps- deleted my rear wiper and it really cleans up the back visually.

 

x2

clay that **** after you get the cams degreed for all that material removed.

 

maybe im wrong and it is .003, but that sounds really low to be max for the pr3. The head didnt need any extra grinding or machining, only the adjustment in timing. I have stock cams with Skunk2 adjustable cam gears professionally timed by Import Sports so the only issue I have now is the extra slack in the timing belt. I have a good amount of slack too, which makes me think that head is milled more than just .003. When I rebuild the head I will check heights and see how much the head is really milled.

 

Dont forget to add the amount of material removed from top of the block (deck)

If needed use the maximum service limit indicators found on the cylinder head mating surfaces on head and block.

 

 

 

not a fan of blackout tail lights or blackrims/silver lip. nice motor tho