car pulling to left
my crv pulls to the left pretty hard.
i've got all new energy suspension bushings on the front end with new shocks and springs. new sway bar bushings and new end links. new upper ball joints(came with new control arms).
its been on the alignment rack 4 times and checks out great every time.
i've tried rotating tires and even got new tires and had everything rebalanced twice.
when driving over 40mph you have to hold the wheel slightly right of center and if you let go you change lanes pretty damn quick.
im guessing my next idea would be lower ball joints and tie rods.
anyone have any ideas?
car is 00 crv
i've got all new energy suspension bushings on the front end with new shocks and springs. new sway bar bushings and new end links. new upper ball joints(came with new control arms).
its been on the alignment rack 4 times and checks out great every time.
i've tried rotating tires and even got new tires and had everything rebalanced twice.
when driving over 40mph you have to hold the wheel slightly right of center and if you let go you change lanes pretty damn quick.
im guessing my next idea would be lower ball joints and tie rods.
anyone have any ideas?
car is 00 crv
my crv pulls to the left pretty hard.
i've got all new energy suspension bushings on the front end with new shocks and springs. new sway bar bushings and new end links. new upper ball joints(came with new control arms).
its been on the alignment rack 4 times and checks out great every time.
i've tried rotating tires and even got new tires and had everything rebalanced twice.
when driving over 40mph you have to hold the wheel slightly right of center and if you let go you change lanes pretty damn quick.
im guessing my next idea would be lower ball joints and tie rods.
anyone have any ideas?
car is 00 crv
i've got all new energy suspension bushings on the front end with new shocks and springs. new sway bar bushings and new end links. new upper ball joints(came with new control arms).
its been on the alignment rack 4 times and checks out great every time.
i've tried rotating tires and even got new tires and had everything rebalanced twice.
when driving over 40mph you have to hold the wheel slightly right of center and if you let go you change lanes pretty damn quick.
im guessing my next idea would be lower ball joints and tie rods.
anyone have any ideas?
car is 00 crv
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Pulling is always Camber adjustment.
I will drop the left camber 1/4 degree.( -0.25)
The side with the greater camber is the side where the car is going to pull.
I have done a lot of front end collision hits.
I will drop the left camber 1/4 degree.( -0.25)
The side with the greater camber is the side where the car is going to pull.
I have done a lot of front end collision hits.
Toe wont cause a severe pull.
Post up your alignment measurements as it sits. Just because the angles are within spec, doesnt mean they are good. If one side varies too much from the other, a pull will occur.
Post up your alignment measurements as it sits. Just because the angles are within spec, doesnt mean they are good. If one side varies too much from the other, a pull will occur.
Assuming your car is straight, wheels good, tires good, car empty, driver normal weight (not 400lb guy in 2000lb car), shock, busings good, etc..
Rear toe is the more common reason a car pulls to one side.
On the front of the car the toe can be a little off because the two front wheels are connected to each other and as you roll forward they will straighten out and just make your steering wheel crooked. On the rear of the car even if both tires are in spec but different it will cause the car to rear steer ( pull to one side ).
It has to take a LOT of camber difference to make your car pull to one side.
Rear toe is the more common reason a car pulls to one side.
On the front of the car the toe can be a little off because the two front wheels are connected to each other and as you roll forward they will straighten out and just make your steering wheel crooked. On the rear of the car even if both tires are in spec but different it will cause the car to rear steer ( pull to one side ).
It has to take a LOT of camber difference to make your car pull to one side.
no actually it doesnt. every corner is different height.
its sitting on 4 month old H&R drop springs for the crv and the shocks were replaced at same time i did the springs with KYB GR2. springs and shocks were brand new at time of replacement.
i have tripple checked to make sure springs are seated in the perches and hats are all on right and everything looks good.
i am waiting on my BWR fullbodies to come in and i will installing them and rear camber kit at the same time.
its sitting on 4 month old H&R drop springs for the crv and the shocks were replaced at same time i did the springs with KYB GR2. springs and shocks were brand new at time of replacement.
i have tripple checked to make sure springs are seated in the perches and hats are all on right and everything looks good.
i am waiting on my BWR fullbodies to come in and i will installing them and rear camber kit at the same time.
Alignment is not causing your issue. 1/2 degree of positive camber toward the left side may cause a slight pull but the difference in faster on the right side should offset that. Minimal pull if that due to alignment. If you suspension is not sitting level, that sounds like it could be your issue. Maybe a weak spring
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