The brakes on my eg civic is a little soft, I tried bleeding the line but it makes no difference. What can I do to fix this problem?

 

What method did you use to bleed them? When you checked the reservoir did the fluid look low?

 

I currently have the same problem with my 94 del sol.
I just replaced both rear calipers, rotors and pads.
I bled them both with the single man inverted bottle and then with the hand pump vacuum. Then I read I should bleed them from right rear than left front then left rear than right front. Did all that. Still soft.
I'm now waiting for the DORMAN self bleeding valves to come in from Autozone to put in each rear caliber. I'll try that on wednesday.
The master cylinder was done a couple of years ago and I'm using Honda brake fluid. The pedal gets hard when bleeding but when I start the engine and the booster works the pedal feels softer. That is somewhat normal per the Chilton manual but overall still too soft.
Hopefully the new valves will help. Didn't want to hijack your thread but your not alone on this.

 

make sure you check the sliders on the bridge where the caliper bolts up. if they are frozen you will get a soft pedal

 

The calipers were brand new and the sliders were loose before I bolted it in. I tightened the bolts evenly so I don't think they could have twisted or locked up the sliding ability but I'll recheck the install.

How can I check that they are "floating" after being installed?

 

if you unbolt the caliper and are able to move the sliders in and out then your fine. check are 4 corners make sure they are good. also check under the dash by the brake pedal make sure theres no fluid coming out of the master cylinder.

 

Also check your brake booster check valve.
Mine had gone bad and it made my brakes softer than normal, especially near idle speeds (made stopping really fun without locking the damn things up)
XD;

 

Thanks I'll look that over.

If there is a problem would I be able to hear a air leak in the booster?

 

Mhm, you may be able to hear a vacuum leak if the seal is no good, but the best way to test is to run the car for a few moments, turn it off, and then remove the check valve from the booster.
If you feel suction and hear rushing air, the valve is good and holding pressure (can also be checked by pumping the brake pedal with the car off. If the pedal gets firmer with each press, then the check valve is holding pressure, and is good-tis how I figured out mine was bad) ^^

 

do they fade?

 

Are you asking them if when they pump then hold with engine off does the system hold pressure? If so, good question.

http://garageninja.com/civic-brake-s...ting-bleeding/

The Helms manual also covers the testing and adjustment procedure... good luck, and...

OP, how are your pads? You should change them with something quality if you haven't already, if the hydraulic system is not to blame.