Any news or updates of those pics? I'm having a surging idle problem again after I:

Replaced my thermostat (it was real bad)
Bled the extra air out of the cooling system
Cleaned out the IACV
Tightened up white piece in the FITV
Blocked off the secondary FITV (at the end of the intake manifold opposite the TB)

The results?

Surging idle
Occasional overheating
White bubbles coming from the radiator after a few minutes of warming up

I am growing frustrated with this frickin problem, and don't know what else to do...

I am running a stock 91 Accord EX.

 

I was told that when you tighten the white peice in the FITV, it screws it up kinda. I beleive this is why your idle is surging.. I was told to clean the FITV, and replace it to its old position or as close as you can get to it.

 

I did exactly that a few weeks ago, but it doesn't explain the white bubbles coming from my radiator and the minor overheating, even though I do not see any visible leaking...

 

Might want to test for a head gasket leak.

Bubbles in the coolant, strange idle (air from the bubbles), over heating....humm

 

You only have one fitv. The only thing opposite the throttle body is the IAT sensor. Your car will need that and will throw a code without it. Check for codes.

 

I blocked off that IAT sensor and my surging idle went away without CELs. However, the possibility of having the minor head gasket had crossed my mind and in the mode of saving moolah for an H22 swap since its a direct drop in replacement for my F22. Any suggestions of temporary measures I can do to keep it together until I can gather more funds?

 

Why did you do away with the IAT ? That's a very valuable sensor. Your car needs it to help determine air density ratio and it is one of the inputs that helps determine low and high output modes for the alternator. In theory your car will run in high output mode all the time with it blocked off.

I'm guessing it's still plugged in but just moved to another location ? If that's the case, I don't really get the point of that and I'm wondering where you learned it from. As long as the sensor is still plugged in it probably won't throw a cel, but I don't get the logic.

Not trying to be too critical I'm just curious what your thinking is.

 

Did a little testing from different suggestions from different websites and videos. That IAT actually isn't normally found on JDM motors, just USDM motors. I tried it with the block, tried again without, then noticed a difference. So I kept it blocked off.

 

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Well, I didnt remove it, but definitely blocked it off with a piece of aluminum wedged between the manifold and gasket. I can easily put it back to normal anytime, but if I remove the fitv and block it off, can I re-route the coolant line that usually goes to the fitv back to the iacv? And if this is possible, does anybody have a pic of this done?

 

Yes, you can reroute both the iacv and fitv so that the hoses don't go through them at all, this will also cool your intake manifold a bit. But this will only help if you have the IAT hooked up properly so that it senses the degree drop in intake manifold temperature. There is literally no point in doing one, but not the other.

I would only suggest doing this if you are always in warm to hot weather as the iacv coolant line is designed to prevent the iacv from freezing and damaging itself upon startup in cold weather. And the fitv is designed to help keep your car from dying in cold weather until it has a chance to warm up properly.

 

Yeah that sounds like a great idea, but here in Sunny San Diego, it is super warm in the afternoon, and crazt freezing cold in the mornings... But I have decided to just stack funds for a blue top swap. That way, I can just get rid of all the little bullcrap I'm facing right now...

Do you have a pic of that setup of where the iacv and fitv have been bypassed?

 

No, since I don't do something silly like that.

I'm sure you can find something just search for "fitv bypass"