so is it ok that i buy a used oem distributor for my 96 honda accord lx 2.2L?

 

Don't buy it sight unseen. Make sure it spins freely and there is no wobble. Try and find out the mileage also.

 

i would direct you towards aftermarket before trying used. unless your planning on getting rid of the car soon how do you know the used part your putting in will last 10/20/100 km?

 

Im buying it off ebay with a 30 day warranty ----> http://www.ebay.com/itm/360574355384...S:1123&vxp=mtr

 

IMO I would go for a low mileage used OEM over a cheap parts store reman. The electrical components used in most of them are of a low grade. They have been known to fail right out of the box... so putting your faith in one of them can be just as much of a gamble.


Just out of curiosity, what is wrong with your original distributor?

 

I would have no problem buying a used Honda distributor. I have bought from these people. http://stores.ebay.com/id=79528253&s...84.m1543.l2533 They stand behind what they sell, just some food for thought, and don't be afraid to use the best offer. Here is one i have bookmarked http://www.ebay.com/itm/120587984861...84.m1423.l2649

 

it was pulling up a code p1381 so i bought a new one and replaced it so then p1381 went away,but p1382 came up and 1381 went away so i bought another one and they both went away for bout a week or two and now p1381 is there again.thats why im looking for an oem(used)caus it had a warranty for 30 days

 

they dont have any for a 96 honda accord lx

 

Check the bottom link in my post above.

 

And here is another one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-96-honda-...item2eaa58b2cc

 

Well if you have tried three different distributors with no luck.... One would imagine that trying another would be insanity......

"Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results."

Albert Einstein


Maybe you should look at the wiring more closely or maybe even the ECU. Try some troubleshooting before you throw parts at the issue.

 

How would i tell if its my ecu?all the wires look fine.

 

plus my car has idling issues.it wants to stall out at least 2-3 times a week

 

problem fixed!What happened was,when i put the distributor back on,i didnt time it right.so check engine light gone!

 

Cars from '96 and up are completely nonadjustable from an ignition timing standpoint. What could have happened is you simply bought an obd1 distributor even though you need an obd2 one.

'94-'95 are obd1 and '96-'97 are obd2. Just a guess though based on given information.

 

I have bought a after market distributor from Ebay and have had good luck with it. I have read that other people have had issues with after markets distrributors but almost 2 years no issues. Let me know if you are interested and Ill find the seller as they had them for many years and models.

 

comes to find out.it was never the distributor.its is something more complex.

 

What was the more complex issue? Found out I have P1381 in my 2000 Accord SE also. Doing initial research now. Planning to put a meter on the dist connector to test for ohms/resistance, that seems to be the procedure according to the repair manual. While doing research some suggested replacing the alternator fixed this problem. But the repair manual does not mention the alternator as a possible solution. My alternator is at least 10 years old, was planning to replace it as a maintenance item. But would like to confirm if it's failing.

Driving symptoms, an intermittent stumble between 2500-3000 rpm. The car buckle a few times under load - car loaded and A/C running - at around 50-55 mph.

 

Is teh ignition module inside the dist on this year? I cant remember, anyway, if it is, pop it out, take it to the parts store...and have them test is 4-5 times. If it fails, go to the junkyard, and get two of them.

 

Is the 1381 related to the alt? Or is that the 1382. Sucks being old and lazy.

One of the two can/is related to a bad part in the alt.

So test the sensor resistance - if in spec then I'd be looking into the alt.

 

Oh, wait - 1381 on a 6th gen can be related to the alt - if you have a 5th.....sorry for my confusion - I said I'm old and all of these start running together after a while.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ght=alternator