Just got a gsr in a crx, everything runs fine, no cel. First time hitting vtec it was smooth. noticeable crossover, i could hear the crossover very well, but when i hit around 5500 or so, the motor doesn't have much power. Wont go faster even when i try to accelerate. Kinda bogs. Any ideas?

 

Ditch that gsr manifold! When I switched to S2, was a night and day diff all the way across the board. That thing is slowing you way down.

 

I just have it in waiting to bar it. i do have the sk2 manifold on the side though. i know i could bar it with the sk2 manifold but i wanted to check out how the gsr manifold was. i know there was a lot of engineering that went into so i just wanted to test it out.

 

If its plugged in correctly to a 1.8 gsr ecu then it should run fine, otherwise it's probably timing. Double check on the timing. Should be at 16 degrees. I ran mine for years with the butterfly and I swore by it that it makes the gsr what it is from the factory.

 

This isn't good advice. The GS-R manifold is known to make good power on many builds. In fact for many people it gives a better powerband than aftermarket manifolds.

I think it's odd that you're having trouble at IAB crossover. It makes me wonder if the system is connected backwards. So it's actually switching to the long runners when it hits crossover.

What ECU are you using, and what is the tune (i.e. is it unmodded, chipped, Hondata'd)? What is the general state of tune? You could be having a fuel delivery problem that just happens to pick up at about 5500 rpm.

 

Stop talking...

 

Sounds like your IAB isn't activating. Make sure your IAB switch is the same year as your ECU. At one point, I don't recall when (maybe OBD2), it switched from ground activation to power activation. If you're running a chipped or Hondata ECU, it may not be outfitted for IAB activation.

Otherwise, check the circuit overall.

 

What ecu are you using? What is the year of the ecu? What is the year of the engine swap? The car is converted to obd1 I presume?

 

He's onto it, you're timing needs adjusted if the iab is connected right and functioning properly.

 

I'm using the oem p72 ecu stock everything.
obd1 ecu
obd1 intake manifold
obd2b motor
obd2b dizzy
Timing is set to 16 tdc
Have not done a tune up since i did the swap and i dont think the previous owner has. The motor has "140k" but not 100 percent sure. still gotta do a compression test.

 

Hmm well i am using the obd2 IAB and i wired it for obd2. not sure if there is a difference.. But no chipped ecu just stock oem obd1 p72

 

Yes you are correct. 95 p72 ecu and the motor is 2001.

 

Thank you guys for the replies btw!

 

try getting an obd1 iab that might solve your problem obd1 and obd2 iab is different something with the signal that opens the actual butterfly..

 

I'm pretty sure i could use this iab. im just gonna see if it's getting voltage first. obd1 iab uses ground from the ecu and the obd2 iab gets voltage from the ecu. maybe i got the wiring mixed up..

 

The polarity is reversed in OBD1 vs OBD2. Switch the wires around and you'll be good to go:

http://www.xenocron.com/install/OBD1-IABs.htm

 

Stop talking and just stick to watching the professionals from the porch!!!

 

This

 

Nice thank you

 

Thanks guys, reversing the pins definitely solved my problem. But a new problem occurred as i was testing the butterflies. After i felt that they opened (on the freeway) as i got to the street roads, there is a big difference in power. I was driving as i normally do, and as i accelerate, i dont feel much power but then a few sec later, the power comes back.

The only thing i could think of is just doing a tune up since i haven't done one yet. Any other ideas?

 

And it felt like that in any gear. Flat roads or hills. Like a hesitation or a misfire. Just felt like the motor was having trouble.

 

I BAR'd a JDM GSR Engine in my civic. It's not hard to do if everything is installed and setup properly. I bring this up because you mention that you are using an OBD1 ecu. The ref will find out quickly and will fail you without hesitation.

Get your car running properly with all of the proper OBD2 requirements which will depend on what year you "claim" your engine to be, which is typically decided by the year stamp on the head anyways. Once you get it running properly without any CEL's or any mechanical troubles and you manage to pass the BAR test, put your OBD1 stuffs back on and tune etc.

Hint - you MUST use all OBD2 emissions components from the doner car that you claim the engine to be from. Good luck!

EDIT:
Just read that your engine is a 2001. Which means....all emissions related stuff will come from an OBD2B Integra. Make sure you understand all that is required for OBD2B. Search.

 

Thank you for this info. I know pretty much all of it already though.

I talked to my local ref and told him that i had a obd1 block with a obd2b head. I told him i already had all the smog equipment for the obd1 gsr so he said to just make sure everything is obd1. I was originally going to bar it as obd2, but that would just suck..

 

When does the engine "pick up?" Is it after a certain rpm is passed, or a certain amount of time has elapsed? Does the problem depend on the temperature of the engine?

 

Nice try, not a rookie just b/c I joined recently... and I don't sit on the porch. I actually do all my own work exc paint and body so bring it. And btw my parents haven't bought a single car for me let alone parts- suck it. You prob don't even know what a gasket match is.