Swapped cluster, car won't start.
So I bought a 96spec itr cluster, when I swapped the clusters I had to take out the yellow plug module and put it in the itr cluster, then I plugged in all 3 plugs, 2 blue and one yellow. Now the clad will crank but won't start. It a consistent turning sound just won't turn over, so I put the old cluster back in and now it won't start with the old cluster either.
MM&Y of car???
If all you get is a "click" when you try and start the engine, the question is, where is the click coming from, under the dash, [starter relay], or engine bay, [starter solenoid].
Try a bypass jump and start circuit test...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cm+bypass+jump.
Question, if you have the dome light on and you try and start the engine, does the dome light dim a little, dim a lot or go out? 94
If all you get is a "click" when you try and start the engine, the question is, where is the click coming from, under the dash, [starter relay], or engine bay, [starter solenoid].
Try a bypass jump and start circuit test...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cm+bypass+jump.
Question, if you have the dome light on and you try and start the engine, does the dome light dim a little, dim a lot or go out? 94
I have a 95 Rs 4dr Integra. Coul the main relay fuse be out? Idk how change the cluster would cause that. The car makes more than just the click sound. Everything's going but it won't turn over. Rpm is at a flat 0 it's a strong click not just the light mechanical sounding click. Sorry don't know the term when the cr sounds stronger when it's trying it start.
Any suggestions? It cranks strong for a while and slows down if I hold it too long. All the lights etc on the cluster work. When I turn key to on, I hear the fuel pump. When I try to start the car, the rpm's don't move at all. As I recall the last time my car had starting problems the rpms would go up really quick and drop down to 0 consistently.
Tino,
The Rpm dropping to zero and car dying sounds like a fuel problem. Either you have no gas left in the tank since you picked up the new cluster or something else is up with your fuel system. Check under the hood for fuel injectors. Double check all your fuses . good luck
I really think u might be out of gas.. was the old cluster working properly?
The Rpm dropping to zero and car dying sounds like a fuel problem. Either you have no gas left in the tank since you picked up the new cluster or something else is up with your fuel system. Check under the hood for fuel injectors. Double check all your fuses . good luck
I really think u might be out of gas.. was the old cluster working properly?
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The RPM's dropping to zero was an old problem unrelated to this. I was just referring to it because now when I start the car, it cranks but rpm doesn't move at all. I have a full tank of gas as I just filled it up. Car ran fine until I switched the gauge cluster. So now I'm dumbfounded, because I've never ran into this issue when switching a gauge cluster. If this help I do have a Viper alarm on my car. I don't know if it would be a theft security thing that would cause this if I switched my cluster.
Hmmm.
Which is it????
"It cranks strong for a while" or "just won't turn over" cranking and turning over are the same thing.
It now sounds like your saying the engine does crank, [turns over] but will not "fire" or start, is that correct?
If so, and because the tach does not move, my guess is, there is no spark because the ICM is blown.
Check for spark.
Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ign. switch? 94
Which is it????
"It cranks strong for a while" or "just won't turn over" cranking and turning over are the same thing.
It now sounds like your saying the engine does crank, [turns over] but will not "fire" or start, is that correct?
If so, and because the tach does not move, my guess is, there is no spark because the ICM is blown.
Check for spark.
Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ign. switch? 94
I checked every fuse and they're all okay. So I pulled off the wires from the spark plugs to check them and put them back on. Tried to start the car it turned over for a split second and but I kept cranking it because it would die if I stopped.
So it fires. [starts] as long as you hold the ign. key in the start position, but stalls as soon as you release the ign. key to the run position/
If so...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html
This is a problem on far more Honda/Acura then listed, more so the older the car is.
To test, check voltage on the ign. lead from the ign. switch, [black/yellow] in both the start position and the run position, you can elliminate the engine crank by just not stepping on the clutch.
The black/yellow needs to have 12.5V+ on it when the ign. key is in both the start and run positions.
You can also do this test at the black/yellow going to the distributor assembly. 94
If so...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html
This is a problem on far more Honda/Acura then listed, more so the older the car is.
To test, check voltage on the ign. lead from the ign. switch, [black/yellow] in both the start position and the run position, you can elliminate the engine crank by just not stepping on the clutch.
The black/yellow needs to have 12.5V+ on it when the ign. key is in both the start and run positions.
You can also do this test at the black/yellow going to the distributor assembly. 94
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