89 Civic Si w/ b18b1 not running right and turn signals flash twice as fast
Alright, I had a perfectly working swap from a 96 Integra Ls, and I thought I would try to wire tuck the driver side. I pulled the wires through the cabin rerouted them through a hole by the door. After soldering the wires that I had to cut so the harness could go through the hole, the engine isn't running right and my turn signals flash twice as fast on both sides, but all bulbs work. When I put on the emergency signal lights, it flashes at the normal pace. As for the engine, itruns, but seems to be stumbling or misfiring. I got out my timing light and set the distributor so its timed just right, but still having the same problem. As for other details, the grounds are hooked up right, and the car ran just fine before this. I really need help!!
Last edited by joshd_bh; Jan 27, 2013 at 11:20 PM.
the only thing that cause the blinking fast is one of the turn signal bulbs arent working.
make sure to check the bumper, corner and rear turn signal works.
make sure to check the bumper, corner and rear turn signal works.
That's why you don't tuck, but it looks sick bwahahahah. You have a short, got chase
all those wires you messed with.
all those wires you messed with.
Oh duh I forgot to reconnect the bumper lights. That should fix it. Any clues to the engine problem? I can upload a video later so you can see what I'm talking about.
just what rd91sib18c5r said.
you got a short. re examine your work and learn to heatshrink every wire you solder for good measure (that is if you haven't already done it)
if it was working right before you tucked* it, you should be able to get it running right if you examine the loom and find the fault.
*tucked should start with an f in this case xD
you got a short. re examine your work and learn to heatshrink every wire you solder for good measure (that is if you haven't already done it)
if it was working right before you tucked* it, you should be able to get it running right if you examine the loom and find the fault.
*tucked should start with an f in this case xD
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Any ECU codes?
Check the wires at all connectors. Wires this old dont always like to move very much, and can break pretty easily. Had that happen today on my TPS connector... horrayyy limp mode! lol
Check the wires at all connectors. Wires this old dont always like to move very much, and can break pretty easily. Had that happen today on my TPS connector... horrayyy limp mode! lol
Alright I have made some progress. I checked to see which injectors were recieving power using a test light, and all except cylinder 1 (furthest from the distributor) were recieving power. Basically, the motor is running on 3 cylinders since there is no fuel going to cylinder #1. I checked for continuity from the clip to the ECU via the brown wires. I first went from the clip to the circular connector that would normally be on the shock tower, and it was good, then from that connector to the ECU. It also check out fine from the injector clip to the ECU directly, so there isn't any problems with that line. Since I am running OBD1, I eliminated the resistor box a while back. The connection hasn't separated since it has continuity as well. So I believe there is a problem with the ECU... Maybe something got burnt in it, and now I need a new one for one stupid little thing. Is there anything I'm missing? Oh, and I shrink wrapped everything, so there shouldn't be a short. Am I forgetting anything?
Connect the shock tower plug and check directly from the injector clip to the ECU. Do this with both pins. You may somehow have a bad connection at the shock tower.
Both pins? I did go right from the clip to the ECU for the black set of wires. The other wire goes to the resistor box, but that has been taken out since I'm running OBD1. The solder joint for this, which connect the 4 resistor wires, and a power, has continuity as well. There couldn't be anything wrong with the wires, unless there is a short.
Anyone have an OBD1 p75 or phearable.net ecu they would sell or trade? lol I think mine isn't working right. Would the ecu be affected if i didn't remove the power when I'm cutting and soldering wires? Even if the key isn't in?
Alright, I figured it out. This might be useful if someone has this problem in the future. In the wiring harness portion that passes over the strut tower, there are two identical brown wires. One goes to the injector for the cylinder furthes from the dizzy, and the other goes to the cornerlight or something. I switched them by accident.
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