so i have a 91 civic std i was at the light and the car died, i replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter , main relay, i can hear the pump prime any ideas on whats wrong. their is no fuel even getting to the filter..and im not throwing any ecu codes. car is obd0

 

Kinked/clogged fuel line between the pump and filter?

 

ill blow out the lines tonight and keep ya posted

 

blew out line getting gas and spark but car wont start could it be timing or valve adjusting needed

 

Well the key to getting your car running, is diagnosis. But in order to do a proper diagnosis it helps to provide detailed information since none of us are there to see/hear the problem.

We need way more information than your "car won't start." Does it just click? Does the engine crank? Does it sound flooded or starved for fuel while starting? You say you're now getting gas, where did you check?

Don't replace anymore parts without a diagnosis.

 

What he said^
How did you confirm your getting fuel,
What color is the spark
Does the CEL turn on 2 secs when you put it on "On position"(2 clicks)

 

I am having this same issue. I replaced my fuel filter & the car started up an was sputtering for 3-4 secounds then shut off, wouldent start again. Makes no sense to me as everything seems as if & where it should be. The car fired right up after sitting for a week(ice cold) with the old filter & now it wont. I did purchase the filter from RockAuto.com. Possibly faulty fuel filter? If it were my guess to me it seems as if it's being starved of fuel.. If someone could please throw ideas and or suggestions that could possibly help it would be much appreciated.

 

One thing to also check is ignition relay. I went through a similar headache with my sedan. Replaced fuel pump, filter, distributor, wires, plugs. Car probably needed some of those but It would sputter and cut out at stops until i changed the ignition relay. The contacts get worn out after 30 years. It would start and run at more than idle but the low voltage at idle wasn't enough to bridge the worn contacts and simply flicker off. About $60 at Oreilly's. Easy to swap and find out. If that's not it, return it.

 

I had issues all year with keeping the car running. Initially I diagnosed it as a rusty gas tank. The fuel sock also fell off and the filter was coated with rust. I replaced the tank, pump and filter which seemed to solve the problem. However, as the temps increased over the summer, I started getting stumbling / stalling problems again. Initially this would only occur at high RPMs under full throttle or decelerating under no throttle at higher RPMs. I tried keeping the engine cooler by spraying the intake and keeping the hood open between runs which actually helped but the Texas heat in September eventually asserted it's dominance. After scratching my head for a while, I looked at the main relay as the culprit as the fuel pressure wasn't stable. I replaced it by building a relay board using higher amp relays. It was clear the main relay was going bad as the fuel pressure jumped from around 38psi to a rock solid 42psi and the pressure stopped wandering around. I wasn't 100% sold on the idea it was the main relay as the fuel pressure was never exceptionally low so it shouldn't cause the engine not to start but I assumed power to the ECU could have been inconsistent causing the issue; at least that was my theory.

This didn't fully solve the problem. After replacing the main relay I took the car on a long test drive to get the engine heat soaked and the car died yet again. I had converted to OBD1 earlier in the year and the ECU finally threw a code for the igniter. I tested for spark and there was none. Intermittent issues are often very difficult to troubleshoot which is why it took so long for me to identify as by the time I got the car home from an event, it would always crank right up. Once I replaced the igniter the issues were finally resolved and the car hasn't had as much as a hiccup since. This was a new distributer and the most expensive non-OEM one I could find. When I pulled the igniter out, the thermal grease was hard and they had only put a very small amount when installing. I assume the igniter would start to overheat as the engine got hot causing weak and inconsistent or no spark at all. Once the engine cooled down, the igniter would start working again.

In short, these cars are old, the replacement parts we can get are not always OEM quality and just because you fix one thing doesn't mean something else isn't also broken or that new part isn't faulty.