98 civic, bogs down, dies when you give it gas
I posted this in another section here. Trying to get this figured out ASAP. Got a 98 civic ex. Gf started it the other morning to warm up, ran fine, went back out and car quit running. Pulled plugs they were shot but have spark at all four. Put new ngk's in still wouldn't start. Came home today, car started right up, ran four 10 mins then quit. It starts but idles really low unless I give it half throttle then Rpms go up, let off and it dies. I have spark and fuel. Can't figure this out. Any ideas? Could it have jumped timing? Has check engine light for O2 sensor.
Easy enough to check cam timing, if for no other reason then to elimainate it as the problem.
I would also check fuel pressure, you may have fuel, but at what pressure?
Also, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
If it is more then 15,000mi or 12mo it needs to be replaced even if it is not your problem. 94
I would also check fuel pressure, you may have fuel, but at what pressure?
Also, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
If it is more then 15,000mi or 12mo it needs to be replaced even if it is not your problem. 94
Changed fuel filter same ole thing. Starts up, barely idles, give it gas and it slowly builds rpm no matter how much you push on accelerator. Starts and runs normal after it has sat over night but once it warms up it starts bogging down and shuts itself off. Guess I'll check fuel pressure next.
Would it throw a code for any of those? Everyone's help is greatly appreciated, don't really have the funds to tow and get fixed at a shop. My labor is free, lol
Try in plugging the iac (on back of intake manifold) if that doesn't do any thing, (other than idle low) check ur map sensor plug and ur tps plug it sounds like the map and tps plugs are switched. Has any one been working in that area before? If u have a volt meter u can check the tps as follows:key on engine off,back probe the 3 pin connectorthe one on the middle should b around .5v with throttle closed, 4.5v wot. The two on the outside are power and ground
Look for loose connection or pins that have been pulled out of the connection
Let me know if u need more help, I'm an ase tech stuck at home with a broken knee-
Look for loose connection or pins that have been pulled out of the connection
Let me know if u need more help, I'm an ase tech stuck at home with a broken knee-
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I am gonna try unplugging the iac tomorrow. Mechanic friend of mine also thought cat may be clogged so may try unbolting that also. Would a bad coolant temp sensor be a possibility even though it isn't throwin a code?
Ok, unplugged iac sensor and it made it idle like normal but could only rev to 2000 rpms, but seemed to run better. Should I replace iacv?
No,just remove/clean/reinstall.
What is your fuel pressure when bogging problem occurs?I have the same problem,o2 sensor code and everything..my car falls flat on its face after about 20 minutes of driving when I give it gas..
What is your fuel pressure when bogging problem occurs?I have the same problem,o2 sensor code and everything..my car falls flat on its face after about 20 minutes of driving when I give it gas..
An easy way to check for clogged cat is hook up a vacuum sensor. If vacuum drops to zero when you lose power, BINGO! If the exhaust can't get out (clogged cat), no fresh air can get in.
Mike
Mike
Not sure what fuel pressure is haven't checked it. Don't have a way to check it. Gonna pull cat off tonight see what happens.
You can get a good FPG for under $50 and as little as under $25 and just permanently mount it...
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
It makes a good diagnostic tool in the future, and can always be removed if you sell/trade your car.
You realy need to confirm/eliminate fuel pressure as the problem before you move on. 94 94
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
It makes a good diagnostic tool in the future, and can always be removed if you sell/trade your car.
You realy need to confirm/eliminate fuel pressure as the problem before you move on. 94 94
Unbolted cat and same ole thing. Car runs completely normal when It's cold but once temp gauge need starts goin up idles bad and wants to bog down. Hold it half throttle and it will slowly rev up. Put it in gear and it doesn't have enough power to move and just cuts off.
Don't know if you want my 2cents but maybe ECU? Or O2 sensors (was that covered already?) I just picked up a 98 DX Hatch and can't figure out the overheating issue.
Changed fuel filter same ole thing. Starts up, barely idles, give it gas and it slowly builds rpm no matter how much you push on accelerator. Starts and runs normal after it has sat over night but once it warms up it starts bogging down and shuts itself off. Guess I'll check fuel pressure next.
I posted this in another section here. Trying to get this figured out ASAP. Got a 98 civic ex. Gf started it the other morning to warm up, ran fine, went back out and car quit running. Pulled plugs they were shot but have spark at all four. Put new ngk's in still wouldn't start. Came home today, car started right up, ran four 10 mins then quit. It starts but idles really low unless I give it half throttle then Rpms go up, let off and it dies. I have spark and fuel. Can't figure this out. Any ideas? Could it have jumped timing? Has check engine light for O2 sensor.
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