Perhaps this is a stupid question , but oh well. I just removed my resonator assembly, which was very easy. Now heres the problem.....I want to keep the stock intake system, minus the resonator of course, but how do i separate the intake piping from the resonator. If im not being clear.... i now have a black U shaped pipe that is encased by a big hunk of white plastic.....so how do i separate the black U from the hunk of white plastic? I spent a good amount of time trying to just pull the bastard apart, but to no avail. Do i just take a hammer to it?
thanks for the help

 

its a 97 ls (sorry forgot to mention that)

 

I just took mine out yesterday, I removed all of that. THe resonator and all.

 

just keep it off. you dont need the stock piping... as for seperating it, why? just take it off.

 

I just wanted to know if there actually is a way to remove the piping from the resonator, or is it meant to be and stay as one peice? And if i were to just leave it off, that would mean i would just have the stock air box with an open hole in the bottom....would that be conducive for good air flow?


[Modified by Scartissue, 4:16 AM 10/21/2002]


[Modified by Scartissue, 4:16 AM 10/21/2002]

 

I took all of that out of my 98 LS. Personally I just removed all of it and put a aem intake on there. But if you think you might want to keep all the original piping(and there is a good reason because without the big white box it actually will help draw the cooler air from under the fender) The only way I can tell you are gonna get that son-bitch off is to cut it, just take a saw to it and cut the white box part off, its only plastic wont take long, and than hook it back up.

 

if you plan on just using the stock intake, you probaly wont pass inspection.

 

put it back on you're losing HP/TQ

 

What exactly would cause the loss in hp/tq?

 

You will lose hp so put the resonator back on or get a cold air intake.
Sucking in the warm air from the engine will make you lose hp.


[Modified by Jsracingintegra, 11:11 PM 10/20/2002]

 

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they made the car with the resonator for a reason. If you're staying with stock intake keep the resonator.

 

I will share my current DIY setup. It sounds that scartissue and I are thinking along the same lines. Here is how to remove the resonator from the intake system, pulling air from in front of the passenger wheel well.

1) Buy a Dremmel Rotarytool, and an "Aggressively" toothed short-length hand saw (Cut's both directions), Also some fine-grit sandpaper.

2) Remove the resonator and bottom half of (black) intake tubing from vehicle.

3) Cut into the white resonator box leaving a 3/4" or 1" white ring around where the black intake arm enters the white resonator. Be sure to leave a significant ammount of white plastic connected to the lower bolt that holds the resonator to the car. You will utilize this bolt later to secure the system in place.

4) Use the saw to remove the lower face of the resonator's "shell" so that you have access to the inside. (Be sure to retain material going to the bolt mentioned above).

5) Within the resonator there is a "plane" of white plastic material that is fixed around the intake arm's tubing (holds the black tube in place). Now you need to free the intake from this plane. Use the saw to do this.

6) Your lower intake tube and mounting bolt should now be free from the resonator.

7)Now you need to clean up the intake's shape. I elected to cut off the first 90 degree elbow from the intake arm. I cut it at the point where the resonator's "plane" mated up with the black tubing. This is about 4-5 inches inside of where the outside wall of the resonator was.

8) Use the saw to make a clean cut along the divet in the tube. Then use the dremmel and some sandiing drum bits to achieve a nice smooth transitional "mouth" for the intake. It will end up looking like the open end of a trombone. Be sure to clean and smooth all the edges and go over it by hand with fine-grit sand paper to reduce turbulence.

9) While the dremmel and sand paper are handy, take a look at the upper end of the intake tube where it feeds the intake filter box. The tube has an unnatural looking lip on it. I smoothed this out as well, removing the inward curl that it had. Again, sand this down nice and clean to remove turbulence.

10) THOUROUGHLY rinse and wash the intake's innards. You don't want any of that plastic dust clogging up your filter.

Re-install the intake tube, it will fit with OEM quality, and flow much better.
I chose to purchase the K&N e2427 to replace my stock filter. I am also working on a flute in the turn signal to feed the air intake with positive pressure, while maintaining the turn signal's functionality.

A NOTE on water ingestion.

I have not yet sealed the intake's new "mouth" so that it is immune to water splashes through the mud-gaurd. I have however driven through the flooded streets of Abilene one day. (Abilene has no sewer or drainage systems where I live. The cty elects to use the roads to direct water.) There were three intersections that I crossed without hydrolocking or any signs of water above the air filter in the intake track. (Although some water drops did get to the mouth of the intake, and two into the filter-box)

I chose to accellerate briskly prior to the water crossings, then coast in neutral through it (reducing the suction at the intake's mouth). I didn't step on the gas until I was clear of the water. This method gave me peace of mind.

Redirecting the mouth's feed-direction will assist in preventing hydrolock, but as always. Caution and discretion should be your allies. I plan to fabricate a duct system that will eliminate the need to fear hydro-locking.

Pics are not available now. I hope to finish the system before documenting my final setup.

I make no expressed or written responsibility for any damage to anyone or their vehicle caused by them attempting to follow the steps outlined above. These are only to document what I have done to my vehicle.

Good Day.

 

I don't know anything about your design, but I do know that a few people on here have tried DIY icebox/cold air intakes and when they do a before and after dyno they lose power compared to stock. Do yourself a favor and just shell out the money for a decent system.

heres' the thread with the loss after removing the resonator https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=178659

here is HP loss from DIY icebox
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=245418

 

the above DIY icebox is made using these instructions if you still want to try it out even though you LOSE power

 

I have shelled out money. Too much.

Bought an AEM CAI and the bypass valve. Their fit/finish was poor, the tube did not taper prior to the TB entrance, the "heat resistant" aluminum coating was non-functional (what's the purpose of a CAI if it heats the air?), and the bypass valve(s) are fragile [I had one replaced under warranty then the second one broke as well, gave up after that] .

I decided that when I take the car to the dealer, I want to be able to appear stock when the hood opens.

And who doesn't enjoy fabricating or altering systems in their car? I know I enjoy this hobby greatly. That's partially why I elected the DIY route after giving AEM a try.

I have no doubts that a positive pressure feed from an altered turn signal will increase safety margins and performance.

Have you (Kelvin96GSR) seen a post like Asahi's for an B18B's resonator assembly. His post only pertained to the resonator from the C5. I wonder if I really am losing power, because that "nice" C5 resonator assembly is unique to the Type-R. My resonator (LS) may pose more of a restriction than the one on the R. Either way, I am enjoying this project, and look forward to finishing it. Cut me some slack.

 

stock air box with k&n drop in and resonator removed own short rams

 

itrs lose power with the DIY intake because their stock intake setup is already pretty nice. That car in the dyno was a itr. I don't know about any dynos with non-r's testing the DIY intake, but i'm guessing there will be a hp/torque increase because of less retriction in the intake system.

 

eh I love DIY stuff but when its less effective than putting a stock ITR intake on your car you really gotta wonder how good a system you can make. I mean DIY strut bars are fine but things like intakes, camshafts etc... unless you got some way to test your DIY project its hard to say if its gonna work the way you want. And comptech ice box looks very stock.

 

A seriously doubt the DIY Icebox intake would make a stock non-ITR intake lose power. It sucks air from the engine bay through all that convoluted piping. When I started my intake project, I first removed the resonator and all piping below the airbox and drove around. It was *loud* under WOT. Then I added the tube that opens up behind the turn signal, and the sound is very stock, except for being just a bit louder/deeper under WOT. Then I added the K&N universal filter RU-2820 fitted to my stock filter neck. How much did it help? Well I ran a 15.010 @ 92.7 w/ a bad launch using my intake setup, removed the turn signal lens, and my suspension on full stiff.

 

Hum.

I had no trouble with the fit and finish of my CAI - It didn't need to taper to fit my TB either (I have an RS, so it's the 2.5" piping) and no troubles with my bypass valve.

Random factor, I guess.

 

are you trying to argue with dyno sheets?

 

I was peeved that the entire system was 2.5". I understood that it should be about 2.75" and taper to 2.5" before the TB.

As for my comment on poor fit/finish of the AEM:
The last bend in the AEM prior to the TB did not allow the straight segment to line-up DIRECTLY into the TB. It was entering the TB at a slight angle (about 5 degrees).
I'm just being a grump, complaining about fit-n-finish. You pay $$$ for a system. it should taper, repel heat, line up properly, and make damn good brownies.

 

maybe the deciding factor in the DIY routine would be at least replacing that crappy factory filter. And with regards to the type R's losing power, I dont think thats relavent to RS/LS/GS, not sure about GSR's. But the RS/LS/GS have piping that goes from the filter, than under the fender and than back into the engine bay, sucking hot air in through the piping and than into the filter. So what everyone here is doing is cutting out the part where the piping takes you back into the hot engine bay. Makes sense but still replace that crappy filter with a k&n if you are serious about it.