Ok so im considering getting a H23A vtec since i can afford it now with the current job i hold.
My car is a 96 Prelude S model. So non Vtec F22A1 Automatic.
I know automatic, either way im thinking of swapping it out since it's at 197+ miles and it will start getting into that issue where random parts will start to go out so i want to start collecting parts for the swap.
So my question is if i could use the F22A1 Harness on the H23A vtec harness like would it fit? Or should i go and find a H22 harness instead? I heard something about their being an extra cable for Vtec or something. Or should i just use a H22A4 harness or equivalent i want to keep it OBDII reason why i want a H23A well that, the Awesome Torque and they Run about Half the price that any H22 goes for around the web, CL , or Ebay.
I plan to keep it Auto or maybe do a 5sp swap since i'm doing it already but i don't know how hard it would be since my car will be making a big difference. Though i would think it would be Unique in my part to have a 4th gen auto with a H23A vtec swap!

 

If ur staying auto i would use the H23A harness that comes on the motor as well as the ecu...Otherwise you'll have to find an obd1 p30 or similar and chip N tune....I'm about to perform same swap on my 98 accord....And I hope u don't have to pass emissions...obd1 won't on obd2 car, jdm obd2a won't either....

 

Get obd1 h22 -TB and manifold , injectors and rail, h23a1 dizzy, p13 will work or a chipped
Ecu with iab function. And a obd1 manual harness if your doing the 5speed swap
At the same time. Its just easy having those things and doing the swap.there's more
Involved but those things will ease the process.

 

i would steer clear of a bluetop h23a... i personally have yet to see any significance to why someone would choose it over a normal black top h22a. The h23 is just a factory hybrid and it nothing special. I just personally think you should get a h22a black top auto swap and call it a day.

 

more displacement makes more power = more fun. It's a "honda hybrid" built to be able to rev like an h22 with the reliance of it being made by honda. Unlike simply putting a h22 head on a stock h23 block which will inevitably spin a rod bearing.

 

So what makes the h23v able to rev like a h22a? Vs just a h22 head on h23 block?

 

No reason to steer clear, Im leaning towards the blue top h23a myself for my swap. There the same engines just different tweaks.

If you staying n/a like myself the 95mm crank in the h23/f22 would help with power under curve and med range power. Thats where we make our power, turbo guys make it higher in the R's.

The black top has 90.7mm rods and would be better for boosted applications. The h23's longer stroke puts more stress on the engine to throw it back and fourth at those speeds. The H23 can rev just as high as the H22a. Just dont expect it to last if you do, your putting more stress on the rod bearings going that high. All 97+ blocks are open deck, if your not boosting this isnt a concern.

You need a new intake manifold and fuel system, but the H23a blue-top can come with the PDE head as well. No 92-98 came with a PDE head. They came with the P13 heads. Different cut angles on thew valves and a wider intake ports. Certain PDE head even came factory port n polish like ITR and CTR heads. They even used a better casting method for these heads, there basically the P13 version 2.0, just new and improved. When your N/a every little bit helps.

The h23 blue top has the better crank even if you were boosting. It may not come with oil-squirters but you can install if you really want them.

IMO if your boosting go h22a. If your sleeving and going forged internals right off the bat go H22a "w/h23 crank". If your building N/a, or keeping engine stock "bolt ons" go H23a blue top.

 

Most places that sell them, list them for cheaper than the H22. Idk why the price gets so jacked up on H22s, but it does.

I'll choose a less expensive motor that produces more torque any day.

 

/Facepalm

 

guys , dont listen to this idiot. hes just hatin on me. see your accord at the track soon bud.

 

55mm mains and more displacement for the same price. hmm no brainer to me.

 

Honda Engineered the H23V BT... I am sure the crank is more stout, rod bolts, rods, pistons, crank pulley, balancing... higher rpm frequency with vtec... I would say making a H23A1 Vtec days are over.... It's a no brainer... price of rebuild or buying a longblock....

 

you dont want the 55mm mains... You want the 50mm like the base h22's. Somone correct me if im wrong but ive seen MANY people put h23 cranks in black-top blocks before. So wouldnt that make the H23a is a 50mm? Since you can swap out either way. I know the H22A4's are 55mm mains, and cranks cant be swapped.

 

lol, may 10th we'll be out there bro, come out and let's run! we gonna bring a grill and cook out, drink a few beers and make some passes. i think we got like 8 or 10 people coming out, half of em work with me over here.

oh and btw you should come by and buy some low quality body parts from me sometime.

h22 over h23 any day <----- perfect arguement starter and i love being called out and people say nuh uh! h23a blue top is better!

 

50mm all day baby
h23 bluetops are dirt cheap for a reason

 

this guy has no idea what he's talking about. H23V = excellent. Very good power band, and relatively inexpensive. I say go for it.

 

oh wow a whole 100 cc's difference, same hp same tq...LOL i have no idea what i am talking about.

if we were doing a swap in a heavy 95 accord wagon auto i would say yes to a h23 but other than that..nope. h22 is an overall better engine. maybe thats why they made them for 10 years unlike the h23a blue. deerrrrrr!!!

 

Comparing a dyno chart of an H23A to an H22A, they are making more HP and Torque with the same mods.

The 55mm main crank is stout, the rods are solely used in that engine, as they are .020 shorter than the H23A1 rods to keep the deck height and compression in the sweet spot compared to an H23/22 frank engine. The only downside I see is the open deck as opposed to the closed deck of the H22A/1/23A1 blocks.

From what I know, the H23A does not have the oil squirters, which helps to divert more oil to the mains, and the redline is a slight bit lower compared to the H22A, but not much, and it can be partially attributed to the fact that they only came in Accords with an auto trans.

 

please, if you do not have better information or a better argument than what you have going so far (which is nothing), do not post.


thank you.

 

i agree with this. we can go on all day about this. open deck is NOT as stout as closed and of course thats a whole nother story. from the factory the h23 was meant to be a lower rpm engine to move that fat accord around which it needed. H23 and H22 are both great but it all depends what you're going to do with it.

Okay lets say we are doing a full high power or high boost build..either engine could be built to hold it's own. But why pick an engine that out of its whole family (h/f) has "special specified" rods and what not (the list goes on). When we refer to doing a complete build it makes no sense to pick a special one off type engine when it's family members can be built with the same money and make as much or more power, are we now picking a h23 for "cool points" "jdm lifestylez yO" what is it, please explain to me the importance of the h23 blue.

Stroker kits are available to make a h22 a 2.6 and so on. so if this is a arguement over displacement then have at it.

Now if we say we are comparing stock to stock with basic bolt on's how much are these alleged dyno results showing? how big of a difference can there be? , i will still say why are we picking a odd ball bluetop... cool points?

 

you got beef? You mad? you picked bones with me years ago and you still do. get over it man we are in a conversation man thats what forums are for. no hard feelings

 

when you try and tell me and others that the h22a and h23a make the same power and torque, there are many people who know the facts and that is clearly wrong. 100cc does make a difference. Out of the box, the h23a makes more power/torque, runs better quarter mile times and I'm sure would run better on a road course as well.

I could careless who you are. I picked you out for a reason (based on your post). If that has happened more than once, that is not my problem.

yes, this is a technical discussion forum which should be based on facts or information that is controversial and should be discussed. The stuff you posted is just plain wrong.

again, thanks.

 

sir you are clearly misled on the facts then. because stock for stock they are the same with difference in powerband. Show me timeslips for proof bud. 197hp and the same tq numbers..how is this stock for stock race on a strip or course gonna yield different times with the same hp/tq? your facts are fiction man I am sorry.

Goes back to why would you pick the odd ball that has nothing significantly better than a regular h22? I assume you have read this info on the forums about the blue top and it has convinced you. Proof is in the puddin' and the fact of the matter is... they have the same hp/tq. The blue top has nothing that makes it a better motor.

Dyno tuning a h22a black top and a h23 blue top, well the .1l difference will help the h23 make more power but there are plenty of ways the h22 can make up for this 2-5 hp difference, hell the driver can lose 10lbs of fat and make that even, lol.

An engine can have .1l more displacement but it doesn't mean it will be faster or yield better results when the numbers are basically identical.

 

For a bone stock engine with basic I/H/E and a tune, Generally an H22A will make 175-185 WHP, where most H23A with the same mods are 200-205 WHP. That is a significant difference out of the box, and when the engine is generally a bit cheaper, it is a better cost to power solution. Not to mention that having more low end torque generally makes for a more enjoyable car to drive, as how many people spend their days driving a swapped Honda around at 7500 rpm?

If doing a build of any type, a buyer should do the homework on what they want in the end, and what platform will be best to acheive it, which isn't the point of a stock longblock swap.

I will say this, I have had a few different engines in my car, and my old H22A is on a stand in my garage, and the engine in my car is H23 based.

 

This guys obviously a noob. Let him think the h22 is the same. He obviously
has done no research to think the motors are the same or h22 is better in
Some magical way.
There both great motors. The h23a has more displacement. For any
Serious builder that alone is what we look for.

Your saying a stroked h22 wouldn't be more powerful. Because that's
all the h23a is. Take the ring pop out of your mouth son... jeez