I began mocking up and installing my turbocharger assembly.
below are the photos.
i am using the Edlebrock manifold and exhaust elbow with the Garrett GT28RS. I had to modify the waste gate bracket to fit as clocked, you can see the radiator clearance. Notice my very trick overflow tube, i made it as practice to my coolant and oil lines work (they will be routed similarly).
i will also need to modify the waste gate arm (can it be detached from the diaphragm?), i will need to extend it to reach the waste gate actuator. Similarly, something will need to be done about the crossmember, i do not think i can run the downpipe as it is now. Any advice on the oil drain routing? it seems it will converge with the down pipe. i had to work outside today, it was a chilly day (tomorrow i'll roll the car inside).
Enjoy.

 

Is that turbo kit made for a crx?
Looks like you'll have to make your own downpipe to make it all fit.
If you do make your own down pipe can the turbo be fliped, compressor side pointed towards the driver side?

I love turbo crx's good luck man.
What are you tuning with?

 

The wastegate arm is not detachable from the diaphragm. The can is double rolled to seal it, you'll never get it open unless you cut it open. You can take the threaded section, place an internaly threaded piece of hexagonal stock when the threaded section is and then another piece of threaded stock to reach the flapper

The hex piece needs to have left and right handed threads for proper adjustment

 

the manifold and the elbow are made for EGs, IIRC. i prefer to have the compressor on the passenger side, it makes for cleaner charge routing. i'll be fabricating my own down pipe (although i will try flipping the turbo, just to see it fit that way).
i am running Neptune RTP. (still need to get the 650cc injectors for the ITBs)

i figured as much, i will cut and weld on an extension to the arm tomorrow.

 

Why not buy a traction bar kit from innovate? Same problem with my friends ef hatch
Bought the traction bar kit, all was good from there, plus it looks a lot nicer

 

I take it your extended the rod as far as it could go, pushed it down to the flapper arm? (the diaphram has give inside so you can angle the rod down. It looks tough, it can be done)

 

I checked today and I can actually fabricate a downpipe without cutting into the crossmember.
I haven't fiddled with the actuator much, after realising it needed work yet.
Spent the time routing hard lines and test fitting manifolds.
Rotating the turbocharger on the manifold does not work. Compressor on the passenger side it is.
As it sits now. Tomorrow, I'll address the downpipe.

 

Shouldn't need to weld anything.

Remove the clevis that attaches to the flapper and the rod and do this, like I said before.. so much easier



All you need to determine is how long the hexagonal piece needs to be as well as the threaded rod that goes between the clevis for the flapper and the hexagonal piece

 

that certainly looks like a good solution, thank you.

 

So what's the details on the motor?
Stock block?
What numbers are you shooting for/ track times?
Seems like its going to be really responsive, what tires do you plan on using?
Stock transmission?
What year is the crx?
Still using the hardline for the drain?

 

stock sleeves D16A6, CP pistons and Eagle rods, ARP hardware. stock head, but i will either install my old NA high compression engine head with Isky valvetrain and a Rocket cam, or a Y7 head (bigger valves). no numbers really, and no tracking, i want this to be a comfortable and fast daily driver (i'm sound insulating the interior now). Tyres, i have Toyo R1s on it now, but open to suggestions. it has a stock 250k+ miles transmission and that will need to be addressed. the car is a '90
not sure on the drain, it might have to be a braided hose after all, pretty tight there.

 

came across this on eBay...

 

i like the FMIC.... it's cute... **** i'd rock that all day on anything under 300whp setup

 

it was 50 dollars, i'll use it and see if i need more power. i might still install an air to water system after all.

 

Another easy solution for fixing the actuator arm would be to either bolt/weld a downwards bracket onto the end of it and have a hole drilled out in location of the actuator lower lever pin. Simple.

 

That would throw the angle of rod travel off and cause binding/unstable boost control

It would also preload the wastegate if you do it wrong, what I posted is simple and cheap, less than 10 bucks in parts and might take an hour to do, no welding and hacking **** up and making a ghetto bracket

 

been laid out sick, sorry no updates.

 

In for more updates. I really like the itb idea for this, especially with the water cooling you have in mind.

 

my plan to run the hardline from the front of the block freeze plug (i am simply going to drill and tap for -4 compression fitting on the original plug) to the inlet of the water pump tube where the throttle body cooling used to me.
thoughts on that?

 

It's much simpler to go from the front fitting to the turbo, then turbo to bottom of the radiator

 

certainly, unfortunately, i do not have the capacity to weld aluminium.

 

Just for $.02

I have my water cooling (turbo) looped after my IACV and haven't seen any issues yet. I'm not sure what size like you're wanting to run though. And if you clock the turbo properly you can hear the water working its way through the lines after you shut the car off.

And I know you don't have an IACV, but I'm sure you can find a place where the coolant runs two and from and just run your lines in a similar fassion if you wanted to.

 

a bit of update. ran the oil feed line, and began pondering the drain line (it will be a complete pain). started (rather clumsily) to work on the down pipe. i must say, i am certainly stretching my expertise here. i also realised that my ITB manifold has the head coolant outlet plugged up, i will have to research if that will cause issues.
so far, the turbo coolant lines have been a challenge. the freeze plug will positively not come out, and frankly i have only 1/2" between it and the compressor housing, i don't think i'll be able to fit a 90 degree -6 compression fitting and the nut there. so i will probably have to tap the manifold at the head outlet and use that for coolant supply line.
some photos of the oil feed line.

 

Looks clean, I plan on using hard line for most of my fluid and vacuum/pressure connections where allowed and use braided to bridge the gaps between the hard line, say for things going from motor to chassis.

I just found a set of 46mm itbs(40 bucks lol) that will be perfect for my ls/vtec build, however I don't want to hack up a stock manifold, I'd rather have a billet head flange to use as the base.... but they are hard to find... I plan on having round runners from plenum/velocity stacks to the itb inlet then go from round to oval from itb to head flange.

P.s. I still really want a set of cf stacks :p
I could probably make the two piece mold without issues (made them before) and my dad has some raw carbon fiber rolls somewhere, but that's a lot of work

Also trying to figure out how to attach them the runners... maybe ,take the base of the stack have a thicker o.d. so I can make the inner of the stack the same o.d. as the runner so it could be a slip fit and I could use some industrial epoxy to secure them.

Or do it so the stack fits inside the runner, that way the step lip won't affect airflow since it's on the trailing edge as opposed to leading


I'm just trying to figure out how it would work without having a sharp edge inside the runner where it goes into the stack

Suggestions? (If any of this made sense lol)

O

 

shoot me a photo of the front of the ITBs. i most likely will not use the one i made, incidentally.