Awhile back, i couldnt sell my 91 rx7, so i traded it for an 88 civic dx with a jdm b16 swap. Well to make this part short, what was suppossedly done to it and what was done wasnt exactly accurate. I replaced alot of stuff when i 1st got it. I actually got it cause i needed the good mpg cause of a new job that was, and still is, a decent commute everyday. Anyway, its a combined car and ive had to find out a few things the hard way by having to go back and fourth to the parts store. What ive figured so far, yes, it does have the jdm b16 in it and that part of the car wasnt done to bad from what i can tell. Its on the obd0 ecu. The wiring harness has been rewired to except the swap. Its usung 96 integra front brakes and calipers, again, had to figure that one out myself. It had a jdm 93 integra gauge cluster. I hate not knowing normal miles or mpg so i changed it with the same u.s. 93 integra gauge cluster. I havnt had many problems after sorting some stuff out until now. My vtec works when it feels like it or is eratic when it does. One of the 1st things i did when i got the car is to run codes, always was a 17 and a 23 and still is now, which is bout 8 months later. The mods are just exhaust and air intake. And the trans thats in it, cable, is very low geared. I run close to 4k at 70mph.The car runs well. But the vtec has always kicked in hard and very noticible to the ear. Thats how, of course, i know its not working properly. Iive changed some grounds with better stuff, changed oil, and redone some wiring. Everytime i think its fixed im back to nope, just kidddin. Buts its becoming irritating now. My next step was going to pull the solenoid and give it a good clean. Will the gasket stay together if i try this or should i get a new one before i do this next step? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Fix the codes first
17- VSS vehicle speed sensor
23- knock sensor

 

A VSS code could very well be the problem.

There is a checklist the ECU goes through before it will engage Vtec. Vehicle speed is one of them. Vtec will not engage if the car is not moving. If the VSS is bad, it could be telling the ECU the car is not moving (when it is), thus, the ECU doesnt engage Vtec.

Fix the code 17.

Code 23, on the other hand, is probably one of the most common codes on these engines. The knock sensor system (sensor + wiring) can be very finicky and finding the reason for the code can be difficult. Some just ground the wire to the engine and the code goes away, some never get the code to go away, even with a new sensor... Luckily, this is NOT on the ECU's Vtec checklist. So if you are just looking to get Vtec working normally, then you dont really have to worry about this one as much.

 

Id like to, but im kinda stuck with knowing where to start. I checked these codes when I first got the car about 8 months ago. The codes thrown were the same then as now. Then the vtec kicked hard and loud to the ear. Theres a flowmaster muffler on it which is loud, and often annoying, but i live with it cause i dont feel like buying another right now. For all the info ive tried to find, my model has the vss in the gauge cluster. Mine has a cluster from a 93 integra. Is the vss also in the gauge cluster for that cluster as well? No codes have changed since this problem and the car actually runs well. I did pull the plugs and cap today. The cap and rotor seem fine, cleaned them up, but the plugs are worn and need replaced soon. But again, any info ive found says worn or bad plugs wont affect the issues im having. If the vss is in the acura cluster that i have, i could try putting the jdm cluster like it back in to check for changes even know i hate that cluster. Its wirered correctly, all functions work normally.So as much as id like to say its the vss, i just cant believe its that only because it worked fine say bout 8 months ago when i got the car, and the codes havnt changed. I really dunno what to try other than cleaning the vtec solenoid. But i dont have the gasket and i dunno if it would fall apart after i pulled the solenoid to clean it. Thanks to the moderators for changing my title. Really didn't know how to put into words as to what i was trying to say. Have to change my screen name too. Was supposed to be mobile not mobi, lol.But keep the info coming please cause im getting pretty irritated with this problem. Thanks.

 

Do some more research on the VSS.

1st: Check if it's a cable or digital.

 

How would I know if it was cable or digital? The transmission is a Y1 with a cable clutch. I had to pull the transmission out and have 5th gear fixed as it kept popping out of 5th, one of the 1st things i had to do, I found no electrical plugs, just the cable that went back to the gauge cluster.

 

Alright, seeing theres no sensor plug on top where the speedo cable goes. it would make sense cable. I may have found the problem at lunch today anyway. Its working well and pulling hard now, harder than it has in awhile. But Ive been disappointed before so ill just have to wait and see if it stays working or not. Ive read alot of info on how some folks cant feel or hear there vtec kick. Maybe i have some different internals in my motor that i dont know about because i have no problem hearing or feeling the pull from mine when its working properly. Sometimes it will break traction at low gear and pull the steering one way or the other when it kicks so i know enough to hang on. Anyways, thanks for the help, but like i said it may not stay, but i may have it narrowed down at least.

 

The people who say they cant tell when Vtec hits have different engines. Usually stock single cams, D or F/H series.

If you cant feel a B16 hit vtec, then you are not hitting vtec lol. The JDM B16A has one of the hardest hitting vtecs there is.

Now if your VSS is cable, and it's fully engaged in the tranny, and is properly clipped into the cluster, then you have narrowed down the problem:
Internal cluster problem - broken connection inside the speedo. Replace with known good speedo.
From cluster to ECU - somewhere between the cluster and ECU, the wire is not always working. Replace with new wire.
Internal ECU problem - possible broken connection inside the ECU. Not really fixable. Replace ECU.

That's pretty much what's left, IF the cable connection is good.

 

I see, different motors, different vtec setups will determine the feel and sound, gotcha. Unfortunatly, unless i go to honda i imagine, i cant get the clip for the cable. I stopped by the local parts store on the way home from work and picked up acouple packages of clips im hoping might work. One, the small different size koter pin type and the other the roll up window handle type. I have a spare trans i bought awhile back(price was right for the just in case), im gonna go out there and see which clip, if any will work best. Then ill move onto the gauge cluster. If the cable being fully seated, what did i say to give you the idea the gauge cluster wiring or cluster is messed up? Im gonna check all those connections anyway, that was the next step. Ill get this cable situation taken car of then reset the ecu and recheck it, keep my fingers crossed. Thanks by the way, youve been very helpful. Now i just need a drivers front fender and parking lamp. Deer took me out a week and a half ago, very unfortunate. I ordered some clear ones off ebay and my dumb*** was in a hurry i guess and got em for the 4 door wagon, lol. Needless to say, they dont fit, oh well. got em if someone needs em, but honestly they are very inexpensive.