Car: 1992 Honda Civic VX (D15Z1) - Bone Stock

Yes, I have read many of the threads/guides on the t-belt change and I have the FSM as well. I have just a few questions, that I believe should be fairly straight forward for most that have changed a T-belt on a honda.

I am working on my 1992 Honda Civic VX and have not changed a T-belt before. I have changed a timing chain in my toyota truck, however this is my first endeavor with the belts. I am quite mechanically inclined as I have completely rebuilt my toyota tranny along with pretty much every other single thing on the truck (literally). I want to be sure that I do it correctly, as it is my commuter and DD.

Question 1
The FSM shows the alignment marks for the cam gear and the crank as well, however they do not line up as perfectly as I had imagined (is this normal?). The rear timing chain cover is the original part #, checked it. I also had hoped for some indicators on the belt to assist with alignment, but didn't see any either. I was considering making some marks with marking paint to ensure it is set exactly as is now. The car runs perfectly and gets top MPGs, so it is all correct as she sits, just needs maintenance.

Question 2
I have a new OEM tensioner (all oem parts) as well, however in the FSM it is very clear not to remove the tensioner bolt, but simply to loosen it x amount of turns. What is the reason for this? Anything specific to watch out for when replacing it?

Question 3
Do you recommend putting fpig on the water pump (with the gasket, permatex gray)?

Question 4
Anything else to watch out for when doing the timing belt? Just trying to be cautious and do it right.


I appreciate anyone's time for taking a look at this thread and even more so for replies.

 

First of all, don't be nervous. You'll be surprised how easy this is... when your done. Physically the hardest part is removing the crank bolt. Use PB-blaster to help loosen.


1. How off are the marks? They should not be off. Make sure the marks your looking at are the proper TDC indicators.

2. When replacing the tensioner do not tighten it at first, this is one of the last steps. It's job is to keep the belt in place by applying tension.

3. I have replaced 3 water pumps and always use permatex gray and have never had a leak. Use it sparingly. You don't want chunks of rtv floating around. Do not overtighten. And wait 24hours.

4. When you get the pulley off the crank be careful not to lose the little key. Also, behind the pulley after you get the cover off you will find a thin slightly beveled guide, take note of its orientation. Take your time.


Check everything twice.

 

Yes, the my crank bolt was a PIA. Had 1/2 titanium impact, no go. Tried 1/2 1200 lb nitro cat, still no go. Did not have the right pulley for the removal tool. Had to jam the flywheel, hesitantly, to get it off. Finally broke loose after pretty good flex in the 1/2" breaker bar.

I wouldn't say they are off enough to be of any concern really. I'll take a closer look tomorrow though when I get back to work on it.


When replacing the tensioner, is there nothing else to watch for besides when tightening back up (how explained in the manual/FSM)? I just wasn't sure because of how the manual stated not to remove the bolt. For what reasons, I do not know.

Do you use the gasket along with the permatex?

I wanted to be sure that there aren't any marks on the belt itself to align. Thanks again.

I have read about the guide and key (also shown in the FSM).


I appreciate your time in helping answer some/all of my questions.

 

I just double checked the marks on the cam gear and the ones on the timing belt rear cover. The D15Z1 is suppose to line up with the two marks on this cover, however it seems that they are a little off. If I were to line up one mark then the other one would be about a 1/2" above/below the other alignment mark.

I looked at majestic honda for part #'s to see if I have a different cam gear, but it seems they all share the same part #'s on the d series for 1992 (14210-PM3-000). I also checked the rear timing cover and on mine it says P08 , which the part number for the VX in the catalog lists 11840-P08-010, where the others are a P01 part #. Just a little strange. The only thing I can think of, is if the rear cover is not completely on straight. I will check through this when removing the remainder of the front cover, crank pulley etc... This is what made me a little leery and ask about the markings etc...

 

I definitely doesn't line up perfectly, I am a little disappointed considering the importance of such a key component. I did line it up as best as possible and marked with marking paint on the old belt and the new belt and it was perfect. Just got it back on the road again yesterday after doing a TON of work on it to reseal the engine and many other things at the same time. Thanks for the help.

 

One thing I have learned about timing belt alignment marks is that paralax error makes it near impossible to see if they are perfectly aligned with the engine in the car.

If I'm changing a timing belt for preventive maintenance I set teh engitne to TDC and mark the belt and gears. Transfer the marks and install using the Straight run, not the side with w/P and tensioner. If doing by yourself, use a plastic quick clamp to keep it in place on the cam pulley(s).

As for thetensioner, the FSM assumes you are reusing the tensioner unless inspection indicates otherwise, same for the W/P.

My approach to the tensioner,
Loosen bolt and move tensioner to least tension position, tighten bolt
Remove belt, loosen bolt on tensioner and remove.
Install new tensioner, set to least tesnion position, install belt loosen bolt to apply tension. verify marks, turn engine through 2 counter-clockwise cycles, (4 crank rotations), loosen tensioner belt, then retighten.

Now go do a Mazda Miata NA and there 2 5/6 engine rotations. talk about stupid

 

I think you mean turn counter-clockwise with tensioner bolt loose and crank the engine through 2-3 cycles and then tighten tensioner. That is what the FSM states It is because that is the natural direction of rotation for our engines.

I did exactly what you said and marked the belt at all points of alignment on the cam gear and the crank gear (first tooth of full contact) and then counted all the teeth on the new belt and marked accordingly. I also aligned the marks along the long straight side and then it was confirmed when everything was aligned properly.

As far as the cam alignment marks. They were close, but not right on. I could get the left one aligned (obviously), but the right was about a half to 1 tooth off. I confirmed once I pulled the belt (after marking) and was able to use a straight edge to go directly from the arrow to the cam gear.

edit: just looked at the FSM again, actually says to only rotate 3 cam teeth to set the tension. Then stated to rotate the engine over 4 times to allow the belt to seat properly (with tensioner set and tightened).

 

Yeah if you left the tensioner pulled back the belt would likely jump a tooth or more when you turned the engine. It can be even worse with the dual cams.