Hey guys Im looking for some help in the right direction. I have a fresh rebuilt D16A6 in my 89 CRX Si, the motor I pulled out was a dohc zc and was running good.

I just tried starting the car for the first time, it cranks and cranks but wont turn over or even backfire or pop or anything. The timing belt is on right and I verified again that the marks still line up. I also verified I was getting fuel (gauge on fuel rail and pulled a plug and it smelt like gas). I dont have a second hand to help me verify spark just yet though

My first instinct was distributor, since I have 2 used ones here, neither I know to be good working (one came off donor d16a6, one I bought locally, Ive never used either so I swapped that first, still no start)

The car isnt stock anymore, the motor will be boosted, has 450cc injectors, gm 3bar map sensor, z6 intake manifold and H22 throttle body. It is running on Turboedit but I have a basemap from my tuner that should be good to atleast start the car. Everything appears hooked up great, grounds and bare, and tight. The car cranks hard and fast, just doesnt kick.

Im just looking for some direction on where to start with the checks. I will verify spark in the morning when wifey can crank the car for me.

Does the "not popping or backfiring" give anything away??

 

Why guess? Just wait for this^ critical test result.

 

I verified I have spark, pulled all the plugs and can see I have fuel, rotated the engine over counterclockwise and verified crank and camshaft timing marks still lined up

Plug wires are in the correct order, and brand new. Dizzy rotor is new and points to Cyl #1 @ TDC

Map sensor possibly? Its wired to and matched the wiring instructions from Xenocron.

Possibly the basemap tune? I figured it would still atleast run, even if the fuel and timing was a bit off

 

When you tested your spark did you use a HEI tester?

 

Which timing mark did you line up on the crank?


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Is spark bright white, yellow-orange, or deep blue? Click the spark link in my signature.

 

Oh darn I didnt note the color, I dont recall it being perfectly bright white though, I believe there was some yellow tinge to it, but I wasnt really watching or taking note of the color. And my GF is gone to work now as my crank buddy

Cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs are all brand new though

 

Don't know if it's too soon to check/eliminate but I'd verify compression too. Also, may sound foolish but is your firing order correct?

 

Yes Im waiting on a ride to teh store to buy a compression tester, will be the next thing I do

Firing order I believe is good for an A6.

3 4
1 2

Left side being the firewall

 

Right on. Did you verify that at TDC for #1 that the rotor is in fact pointing at #1 on the distributor cap?

 

Yes. Got fuel timing and spark as far as I can tell, why is it not atleast sounding like its trying to start, huffing and puffing, some sort of exhaust noise. I wish I had my extra hands back here so I could test spark again to check the color like Ron suggested it being weak possibly. But would that cause it to not light at all?

I dunno, walking to the store now to buy a comp tester

 

Definitely retest spark. Weak spark can prevent the engine from starting.

 

So I just got my neighbour who ive never met before to come over and crank the car for me to check the spark again

And the spark is definetely not white, it is yellow for sure, and not a very bright yellow while cranking either, didnt hurt or squint my eyes to look right at it.

I'll have to read your thread again to see what that means. I hope this problem is easy

I also called the parts store and they dont stock compression testers, but they orderred one for me and it will be here by 4pm, but unfortunately I have night shift work tonight so I cant check that til tomorrow

 

Start by resistance testing the coil. See my Spark link.

 

Ya Im trying to find a good DIY with pics on how to do the tests, Im not very good with a multimeter, or service manuals, the lingo is over my head

 

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html

 

make sure the injector setting is for 450's, I worked on an eg that was boosted, barely ran. turns out the car had the wrong fuel map and was flooding out which is why it was barely starting

 

Thanks for that link ron, but the inside of my distirubutor does not look like that, There are no screws holding the black/yellow and white/blue down and they are in different places.

Im going to open up the TD18U dizzy I have and see if that looks similar in the car

I also have made sure that turboedit is setup for 450cc injectors, and even tried pulling quite a bit of fuel and attempted a start but still no go so I put the settings back to the original basemap 450cc setting

Ill go pull and open that TD18 dizzy now

 

Ok so I figured out how to do the test based of that team integra link. The main coil tested @ .55ohms, which is slightly out of spec compared to my Haynes manual, but inspec to the specs posted on the team integra link.

Then I tested the secondary coil and it tested @ 11.4K ohms, within spec

Should I be worried about the main coil?

EDIT: So I went back and checked my other distributor and the main ignition coil test @ .35ohms, within spec on my Haynes manual. And as I was inspecting it, I noticed that, that distributor has a cracked cap and poor condition rotor.

Should I take the "good" testing ignition coil out of the one distributor and put it in the newer dizzy that has a brand new rotor and cap?

Or are the readings of the coil that were on the high side OK, and not be causing this problem??

 

From my experience a Ohm test can never ever tell you if something is good.
It can tell you if it is bad, like there should be resitance but instead it is open. Ohm test is only good at telling you if it is open / continuity or has resistance.

Take a fat battery cable as an example that say has 100 strands of wires. Cut 99 strands and just leave one tiny strand left. It will still show zero resistance.

I lost count of how many fuel injectors/coils pack/etc.. on and on tested good with the Ohm test but where bad. Maybe I should sell my box of tested good Ohm parts on the market place j/k

It needs to be tested under load. Use a HEI for your spark test. Do a voltage drop test for checking your battery/battery cables.

 

Did you subtract the internal resistance of your multimeter to get these^ coil readings?

yes

Correct. But if the coil tests bad, it's bad.

 

yes ron those numbers were with my multimeters resistance subtracted

I also forgot I pulled the CEL bulb out of the cluster, so I turned the key to ACC and I am indeed throwing a code 13, which is a weird barometric pressure code that sounds very difficult to source

Not quite sure if it could be causing my troubles though, thats where Im at now

 

Please never do that.

You'll need to source a replacement ECU.

 

Both readings are out of spec.

 

Yeah I know, I did that because I was throwing a TPS code and took a while to fix it and just never put the bulb back in

I actually just was playing with turboedit and realized I can disable code13 so I dont know if that will fix the problem but Im going to burn the new map onto a chip and go test it out after dinner

Source a new ecu? I do have several stock unchipped pm6's and a pm7. But Im reading the baro sensor on OBD0 is external to the ecu and not internal

Now sure if code 13 would cuase a no start condition though, do you happen to know Ron?