my new daily driver
i according to the pink slip i purchased a green honda accord
a CD5 i believe.
im new to accords
ive been working on rebuilding my crx mostly
but this is the new daily so it needs lovin too
i purchased it from a buddy for mine for 1,600 (tell me if you think i overpaid)
from what i now its had the headgasket done and the rear main seal replaced
the goal is to lower it a bit
and have a sexy DD
but for now here are the pix
first think was first was take her to the wash (sorry for the iPhone pix)








a CD5 i believe.
im new to accords
ive been working on rebuilding my crx mostly
but this is the new daily so it needs lovin too
i purchased it from a buddy for mine for 1,600 (tell me if you think i overpaid)
from what i now its had the headgasket done and the rear main seal replaced
the goal is to lower it a bit
and have a sexy DD
but for now here are the pix
first think was first was take her to the wash (sorry for the iPhone pix)








*Technically* it is green. It's Sage Green Metallic.
It is a CD5, you can look at the VIN to confirm (4th,5th, and 6th characters.)
Looks like it was in a front end accident and poorly fixed. Bumper is sagging, grill is off, lights are all jacked up along with the gnarled up fender. You're also missing the black lip on the bottom of the bumper.
Your rear Accord emblem is in the wrong place, should be about halfway up the taillight and should have the model designation below it.

You might be able to fix up the front bumper assuming the radiator support and such aren't messed up too bad. The bumper beam can slip down on the car and cause the issues, repositioning and tightening the bolts can solve that. Some rubbing/polishing compound may take out the scratches/paint transfer on the passenger signal light too.
*edit*
Should also note this appears to be an EX trim model. You should have these wheels from the factory and not steelies:
It is a CD5, you can look at the VIN to confirm (4th,5th, and 6th characters.)
Looks like it was in a front end accident and poorly fixed. Bumper is sagging, grill is off, lights are all jacked up along with the gnarled up fender. You're also missing the black lip on the bottom of the bumper.
Your rear Accord emblem is in the wrong place, should be about halfway up the taillight and should have the model designation below it.

You might be able to fix up the front bumper assuming the radiator support and such aren't messed up too bad. The bumper beam can slip down on the car and cause the issues, repositioning and tightening the bolts can solve that. Some rubbing/polishing compound may take out the scratches/paint transfer on the passenger signal light too.
*edit*
Should also note this appears to be an EX trim model. You should have these wheels from the factory and not steelies:
how many miles are on the motor?
and its the v6 right? (i could be wrong but im guessin its a v6 from what the exhaust looks like)
i agree with muffinman, the front looks like its been in an accident and the accord symbol is not in the right spot..not that that matters lol it also should have the ex wheels and id ask your friend why theres steelies..
just so you have an idea on if think u got charged too much, i paid 1300 for my wagon with major paint issues but a clean title and no dents or anything, just paints fading bad.. the motor had also been swapped to the vtec f22b1 and i sold the rims it came with (18's) for 400 so basically i paid 900.
not saying u got ripped off or anything, bc my motor was leaking oil and stuff so i took it out and started rebuilding it, but all depends on how many miles u have on the motor and how many accidents prior and stuff. id imagine if theres a **** ton of miles (like my wagon) youll need to do some suspension work if you want to lower it.
good luck to ya and welcome to the accord fam
and its the v6 right? (i could be wrong but im guessin its a v6 from what the exhaust looks like)
i agree with muffinman, the front looks like its been in an accident and the accord symbol is not in the right spot..not that that matters lol it also should have the ex wheels and id ask your friend why theres steelies..
just so you have an idea on if think u got charged too much, i paid 1300 for my wagon with major paint issues but a clean title and no dents or anything, just paints fading bad.. the motor had also been swapped to the vtec f22b1 and i sold the rims it came with (18's) for 400 so basically i paid 900.
not saying u got ripped off or anything, bc my motor was leaking oil and stuff so i took it out and started rebuilding it, but all depends on how many miles u have on the motor and how many accidents prior and stuff. id imagine if theres a **** ton of miles (like my wagon) youll need to do some suspension work if you want to lower it.
good luck to ya and welcome to the accord fam
how many miles are on the motor?
and its the v6 right? (i could be wrong but im guessin its a v6 from what the exhaust looks like)
i agree with muffinman, the front looks like its been in an accident and the accord symbol is not in the right spot..not that that matters lol it also should have the ex wheels and id ask your friend why theres steelies..
just so you have an idea on if think u got charged too much, i paid 1300 for my wagon with major paint issues but a clean title and no dents or anything, just paints fading bad.. the motor had also been swapped to the vtec f22b1 and i sold the rims it came with (18's) for 400 so basically i paid 900.
not saying u got ripped off or anything, bc my motor was leaking oil and stuff so i took it out and started rebuilding it, but all depends on how many miles u have on the motor and how many accidents prior and stuff. id imagine if theres a **** ton of miles (like my wagon) youll need to do some suspension work if you want to lower it.
good luck to ya and welcome to the accord fam
and its the v6 right? (i could be wrong but im guessin its a v6 from what the exhaust looks like)
i agree with muffinman, the front looks like its been in an accident and the accord symbol is not in the right spot..not that that matters lol it also should have the ex wheels and id ask your friend why theres steelies..
just so you have an idea on if think u got charged too much, i paid 1300 for my wagon with major paint issues but a clean title and no dents or anything, just paints fading bad.. the motor had also been swapped to the vtec f22b1 and i sold the rims it came with (18's) for 400 so basically i paid 900.
not saying u got ripped off or anything, bc my motor was leaking oil and stuff so i took it out and started rebuilding it, but all depends on how many miles u have on the motor and how many accidents prior and stuff. id imagine if theres a **** ton of miles (like my wagon) youll need to do some suspension work if you want to lower it.
good luck to ya and welcome to the accord fam

This is a V6, note the extended front bumper bit where it meets the fender.
well its a 4cyl 2.2L vtec
and i talked to my buddy and lowered the price down to 1000
well today i didnt really take alot of pix but i did
an oil change and while under there i noticed the whole bottom was covered in oil. and i noticed the filter was loose so im hoping it was just that.
i also decieded to flush out the cooling system since i saw the water was brown-ish.
so i was taking the thermostat out so i could flush the block and i noticed someone had cut the thermostat out, so im hopin the head gasket isnt blown.
and another bad thing i noticed while under the thing was this

so is that a common leak spot? , is it hard to replace that tube?
and i talked to my buddy and lowered the price down to 1000
well today i didnt really take alot of pix but i did
an oil change and while under there i noticed the whole bottom was covered in oil. and i noticed the filter was loose so im hoping it was just that.
i also decieded to flush out the cooling system since i saw the water was brown-ish.
so i was taking the thermostat out so i could flush the block and i noticed someone had cut the thermostat out, so im hopin the head gasket isnt blown.
and another bad thing i noticed while under the thing was this

so is that a common leak spot? , is it hard to replace that tube?
so today i went to my local pick your part ,and pulled one of the tubes. it wasn't a bad price, ($5.17) to be exact
so i got back to the shop cleaned it up and bam

installed

and started working on putting everything back together.
put on a new throttle body gasket cuz old one broke

and i was about to put the thermostat housing back on that tube when i noticed the little line that gives water to the throttle body was plugged up beyond repair so back to the junk-yard tomorrow
ill post some pics of the other crap that was messed up in the cooling system later.
so i got back to the shop cleaned it up and bam

installed

and started working on putting everything back together.
put on a new throttle body gasket cuz old one broke

and i was about to put the thermostat housing back on that tube when i noticed the little line that gives water to the throttle body was plugged up beyond repair so back to the junk-yard tomorrow
ill post some pics of the other crap that was messed up in the cooling system later.
I purchased my 97 Accord with similiar "quick fixes" for the same price. Front end wasnt as beat up though.
Not a bad price. Fix all it needs and it should run great, I know mine does.
Not a bad price. Fix all it needs and it should run great, I know mine does.
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ok so this might sound stupid but im confused...
when i unlock the drivers door from the outside with the key it opens up fine and i can get in and everything but, when i unlock the passengers side from outside with the key all the doors unlock. shouldn't it be the other way around?
is there something wrong?
i wonder what could be broken on mine, i just tried that and it doesnt work. i unlock once it unlocks mine,twice = nothing happens. when i lock it i hear them all lock
so the accord is out of service for now :/ when i flushed the engine water fell all over the alternator and yeah you can guess where it went from there...
so now its out for a week or two, until i can get a new one
so now its out for a week or two, until i can get a new one
Where did it go from there?
A bit of water splashed on the alt shouldn't do anything. Unless there were underlying issues. I've out right blasted mine with a pressure washer while at the car wash and never had any issues. Always started right up without hesitation.
A bit of water splashed on the alt shouldn't do anything. Unless there were underlying issues. I've out right blasted mine with a pressure washer while at the car wash and never had any issues. Always started right up without hesitation.
Good looking car. I can't say I've ever heard of a CD5 with a VTEC motor though, although I could be wrong. I actually had almost identical front end damage with mine when I bought it, after fiddling trying to fix it I bought an OEM headlight (in place of the cheap replacement one), two new bumper mounts, and some PWJDM QD bumper straps. Looks nice imo.
the funny part was that i had just finished installing an amp and a sub and went for a drive and i noticed the battery light would flash on and off, so i though ohh probably needs a capacitor or somthing. thenit just stayed on all the time so i decided to check the charge and it was at like 9.7v
Good looking car. I can't say I've ever heard of a CD5 with a VTEC motor though, although I could be wrong. I actually had almost identical front end damage with mine when I bought it, after fiddling trying to fix it I bought an OEM headlight (in place of the cheap replacement one), two new bumper mounts, and some PWJDM QD bumper straps. Looks nice imo.
, i wana go get all the parts and see if i can fix her up a bit
Good looking car. I can't say I've ever heard of a CD5 with a VTEC motor though, although I could be wrong. I actually had almost identical front end damage with mine when I bought it, after fiddling trying to fix it I bought an OEM headlight (in place of the cheap replacement one), two new bumper mounts, and some PWJDM QD bumper straps. Looks nice imo.

Your car (EX) has a VTEC motor, why would his not have a VTEC motor?
well it simply just stopped charging.
the funny part was that i had just finished installing an amp and a sub and went for a drive and i noticed the battery light would flash on and off, so i though ohh probably needs a capacitor or somthing. thenit just stayed on all the time so i decided to check the charge and it was at like 9.7v
the funny part was that i had just finished installing an amp and a sub and went for a drive and i noticed the battery light would flash on and off, so i though ohh probably needs a capacitor or somthing. thenit just stayed on all the time so i decided to check the charge and it was at like 9.7v
I'm with Ghost, I've taken mine to the car wash and hosed the entire bay down without any issues on all my cars. What exactly does your install look like? You're probably overloading the battery to a point where it (alternator/battery) can't keep up. And you'd probably want to install a fresh battery in it as well.
I think you messed up your amp/sub install....
I'm with Ghost, I've taken mine to the car wash and hosed the entire bay down without any issues on all my cars. What exactly does your install look like? You're probably overloading the battery to a point where it (alternator/battery) can't keep up. And you'd probably want to install a fresh battery in it as well.
I'm with Ghost, I've taken mine to the car wash and hosed the entire bay down without any issues on all my cars. What exactly does your install look like? You're probably overloading the battery to a point where it (alternator/battery) can't keep up. And you'd probably want to install a fresh battery in it as well.
I installed a new alternator yesterday charged the battery for 20 minutes
And let it sit over night to see if it holds a charge and everything is good now
Good luck with your Accord! Its an awesome and solid car! I purchased my 94 Accord with 82k miles on her in 2002, for $3,400. I now have 258,500 miles on her.
Over the course of 10 years, putting 176k miles on her, I have spent a total of $2850 on parts, and $975 on labor, bringing my total spent on preventitve maintenance to $3,825
This is AWESOME, compared to a 2000 BMW 528i I just picked up from my friend. Over the course of him owning that car from year 2008, with 82k miles, it now has 168k miles. Over the course of 4 years, putting 86k miles on it, he has spent $12,000 on it in preventative maintenance, and stuff that actually BROKE!
I will NEVER give up my Accord!!!
Over the course of 10 years, putting 176k miles on her, I have spent a total of $2850 on parts, and $975 on labor, bringing my total spent on preventitve maintenance to $3,825
This is AWESOME, compared to a 2000 BMW 528i I just picked up from my friend. Over the course of him owning that car from year 2008, with 82k miles, it now has 168k miles. Over the course of 4 years, putting 86k miles on it, he has spent $12,000 on it in preventative maintenance, and stuff that actually BROKE!
I will NEVER give up my Accord!!!
so i was trying to figure out why the blower wasn't working first thing i though it was the variable speed resistor, so replaced that...wasnt that...
so i figured id try the relay so i swapped it for the power window one and now my heater blows nice and warm. gonna go get another relay for the power windows later. and next see if i can fix the a/c.
im not trying to build her up to drive a show car, i just want a comfy daily driver
well more repairs. my starter just decided to go out.
so i replaced it with a duralast one.
and it ran good for about 2 hours and decided to start leaking coolant from the thermostat housing. so i must have done somthing wrong there. so time to redo it
so i replaced it with a duralast one.
and it ran good for about 2 hours and decided to start leaking coolant from the thermostat housing. so i must have done somthing wrong there. so time to redo it
Did you get new O-Rings? I just replaced both of mine, it could also perhaps be twisted or seated incorrectly.
There's that o-ring that can get nipped or cuts when not lubed up while getting it installed. Mine leaked badly after a headgasket replacement. O-ring had a cut on it somehow when we reassembled everything back on. Check that o-ring that goes into the thermostat housing on that water pipe you just installed.




