okay so for background info... its a 98 ek sedan, it has a chipped p28 that JUST got tuned, its a jdm sohc zc obd2 non vtec motor (bought with warranty from a shop last week) its on 9 psi of ebay boost (turbo being replaced ASAP like next week) and tuned on e85.

i took it to get tuned and everything went fine


that weird noise is my tires begging for alignment (coming soon as well)


so once were done the tuner explained that its soon time to replace the turbo and to baby the car, he took me for a spin and showed me that it had smooth driveability and then the also showed me that it made power.

after that i was taking it home and mid-drive it just died out on me while in 5th gear. i downshifted out of habit to get more power but there was none, (my battery light came on) i downshifted again and it turned on but stuttered out. i pulled out of traffic and its strange, the starter makes a strange whine but it IS cranking the engine but i dont hear puffs of exhaust being made, it might be spinning faster than it should.

things ill check tomorrow is timing belt besides that no clue. opinions please?

 

If your battery light is on check your alternantor

 

^ check that. and make sure all of your wires are nice and tight.

 

Just curious.. why put in the work of putting a ebay turbo on then having it tuned only to replace the turbo? Now when u go and replace the turbo, the power band of the new turbo will not be matching the fuel map made for the original turbo throwing off your tune??

 

timing belt ?

 

wires, will check but didnt see anything lose, alternator makes sense too, timing belt was my guess as well an ill check tomorrow. and as for the ebay remark long story short you get what you pay for! chinese crap took a turd on me. or at least it will soon

 

Just going by symptons
think about what would run the timing belt and crank pulley(alternator)

Has anyone ever seen a crank break off at the nose on these?

 

It does sound like your timing belt broke.. pull the cap off the dizzy and crank the motor to see if the rotor turns.. A friend of mine had the same thing happen last winter, belt broke, i pulled the head to check for damage but luckly a miracle no damage, got her running strong once again. In your video, sounds like u got alot of flutter! might want to properly adjust your bov....

 

Should i tighten it or loosen it? I actually like the flutter noise lol

 

When you get your car running again.. start it, with it idleing the valve should be open atleast 1/4-1/2" - valve lifted off the seat. vacuum holding it up.. So start by loosening it all the way and then tighten it till the valve is a quater to half inch from being closed. with the car running. If it does not open after being fully loosened, take apart the bov and remove 1 spring IF it has TWO to make the spring pressure lighter. If there is only 1 spring you might need to slightly trim it to make it give less pressure on the valve. Keeping that cool flutter sound will kill that turbo twice as fast.. plus your missing out on that pssssshh sound lol..

 

No compression, i presume the rings went -.-

 

On all cylinders?

If the timing belt broke then the motor is shot, you probably had the pistons hit the valves and break/bend them, damaging the pistons as well.

 

Thats the strange part! The belt is in tact and the cam moves

 

does the distributor end of the cam move? you could have a broken cam.

 

I was thinking the same thing as far as BOV adjustment. You need to make sure and do this if you get it running again.

Everyone is giving you good ideas on what to check, but you really just need to start taking stuff apart to figure out what's causing the compression issue.

 

Timing belt jumped time and bent all the valves more than likely if it isnt broken. all the rings wouldt go like that and evn if they did compression would be low not completely gone. its bent valves for sure

 

Makes sense. Pull the valve cover and see if all of the valves are snapping closed.

 

fastest wy to find out is a leak down test. can get a leakdown tester at harbor freight cheap

 

Stock bottom, end? On what turbo?
You do know that more than 225hp on a stock d series is asking for something to break right?

 

Being a non-vtec and assuming no cam upgrade, I doubt you bent a valve.

No compression for sure, then most likely you broke some ring lands, since you did not mention any clanking noise in the crank case any new windows in the block.

Pull the head to be sure.

 

Don't need a can upgrade to bend valves if the thing jumped timing

Its almost impossible to break all 4 ringlands so bad that you have 0 compression in all 4 cylinders

It has to be bent valves

 

I broke the ringlands on all 4 pistons to where they were in pieces, I still got 60-155 compression #s when I tested it

 

I have worked every variety of D15/D16 w/ and w/o vtec except ZC DOHCs.

I have a had a lot of broken timing belt non-vtec engine and not a single one ever had valves bent.

Look at the p2v clearences for non-vtec engine, there plenty of clearances.

As for the no compression due to ring lands, seen it happen a couple of time due to too much ignition timing. (not enough retard of timing under boost)

Even on vtec z6/y8 if a belt breaks you may get 1 or two valves bent. So you would have one or two cylinders hold no pressure.

OP pull the head of take the cam out pour alcohol or water done each port and see if any valve leaks.

Or take the car back to the shop since you have warranty and get it sorted out.

 

why not pull the timing covers off to check if it in fact did jump time? if it did, reset it and then crank it over. there is a good chance that it jumped and not did damage.. reseting it is about as easy as doing any other check.

 

I did something similar recently on my Twincharge d16 had 90-30-30-30-30 for compression.