Within the past week (it is now wintertime), my '90 Accord (220k+ miles) began making a loud clanging noise when I first start it up - almost as if the valves were banging against the valve cover (impossible, I know but just trying to explain the sound). After driving about 4 miles and it warms up, the clanging sound goes away and the motor sounds normal.

Then this morning on my way to work, I was pulling out of the neighborhood and suddenly lost power. At the same time, the CEL illuminated. It felt as though I was operating on 3 cylinders - terrible loss of power, especially climbing hills, along with "sputtering". The idle speed is also below normal, although not stalling.

Any suggestions?

 

I think you lost a valve. Do a compression test and see what results you get. If it is a valve it's most likely it's an exhaust valve. A quick way to check for a bad exhaust valve is hold a rag kinda tight but lose enough to slightly flex over the muffler opening. With a four cylinder the rag will suck back in slightly while the car is running but if there is a bad exhaust valve it will have much more suction. So if you see the rag not only pulsing out but being sucked into the exhaust you have a bad exhaust valve.


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Strangely enough, as I started my car up & drove home after work yesterday, the CEL was not lit and the car ran relatively well, aside from the aforementioned clanging sound at startup until warmed up.
Could this be oil in the distributor?

 

The clanging? No. The loss of power? Possibly. There is a lot that should be gone over. Where do you think the clanging is coming from? Are you positive its coming from the head?


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Not positive it's coming from the head, but it sure sounds like it. I haven't had a chance to break out my stethescope...

 

Well try this. While the car is running UN plug the fuel injectors one by one. Obviously the car is going to miss and run like **** but listen to the clanging. If it doesn't go away then try the next cylinder. If you go through all four and nothing then its not a rod bearing. You can also pressurize the crank case while the car is running to make sure its not a main bearing.


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When I get a chance (probably not for a couple weeks), I'll do a compression test and try what you're suggesting...

 

Ok then let me know how it goes. Just a little explanation when you UN plug the fuel injectors the piston and rod aren't under a load anymore, still under compression but they are just going for a ride lessening the load on the bearing causing it to knock less (if it is in fact knocking)


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I unplugged each spark plug while the motor was running to see if I could narrow the sound down to one unit. After each one was unplugged individually, the sound never relented, leading me to believe I may have a combination of 2 problems.
1. an exhaust leak at the manifold
2. oil getting into the distributor

Agree? Disagree?

 

Well an exhaust leak is a fairly easy thing to fix and pretty cheap. Pull the cap off and check for oil inside of the dizzy. Get your stethoscope out and try to figure out where that noise is coming from. From my view there is still more to go over before coming coming up with a diagnosis.


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Using the stethescope and touching it to the valve cover, the knocking is the same volume at each cylinder location.

I did notice a considerable amount of oil residue around, on, and below the distributor, which I don't recall being there before (?)

 

Well oil leaking from the dizzy o ring isn't uncommon (from my experience) and to replace that is quick easy and cheap.


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Ok so were still not sure where and what is causing the "clanging". Are you sure it's not a knocking? Or a ticking?


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So, if it is narrowed down to the "dizzy", it is likely just the seal? Are there any other steps to take, as far as cleaning the inside out of all the oil, etc...?

I sure hope that's all it is....now about the clangning, think it could be the exhaust?

 

update: This morning when I arrived at work (yes, I'm still driving it...don't really have any other choice without making the wife mad!), I popped the hood & noticed the sound was a bit different.
Instead of the clanging being rhythmic, it sounded more syncopated (off-beat, with an erratic rhythm), and sounded more like it was coming from the backside of the motor (?). Does this make sense? It almost sounds like something might be loose, but I have no idea what that could be.

 

The dizzy comes off from the three screws that hold it in and then pulls straight out. Does the knocking increase (get louder and or more rapid) with r.p.m. Increase?


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The knocking sounds as if it corresponds with the RPM's, but I cannot hear it when I rev the motor (I can't say it goes away, I just can't hear it).

Sidenote: This morning when the car was warmed up, the knocking sound was a little different (sounded like the clinking of keys, or a loose bolt clanging within its hole) (?)

 

Can you make a good quality video ?

 

Yeah. If you can take a good quality video under the good with the engine running while moving the camera around the engine bay and while slightly revving the engine, that would be awesome. You said it sounds like keys? I'm not even really sure where to start with that. Except possibly a bearing in either your timing belt tensioner pulley maybe your water pump? A high quality video will be nice though.


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Can you hear taps playing in the background???

Driving it to work this morning, heard a clang, then rattle, then no more motor. Drifted to a stop, had it towed to my local Firestone.

Just got the call that the camshaft has broken. Funeral services are being planned

SO! Anyone need a parts car??!

 

Wow the cam busted? That's an awkward act of God i would say. Don't go trashing the car just yet. You can but used and good JDM engines on line all day


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ya dude they got f22a engines all over ebay for cheap. sorry to hear that tho

 

How much do replacement motors go for?

I'm not sure I'm mechanically-inclined enough to replace the motor, and I really don't have the time.

And to pay someone to do it would cost more than the car's worth, really...at least I suspect so anyway.

The mechanic at the shop said the timing belt was turning, and other things were working, which let him to believe the cam is busted. I really didn't want to pay him any more money to get a finalized confirmation on something that's fairly likely. he did emphasize how rare that is, and that there was nothing I did wrong, or could have helped...

Thanks for all your input, gentlemen (assuming you're all males) - you're a great resource!

 

To have a local mechanic put a JDM used motor in there would be cheaper than buying a similar car that you have...the difference being that the JDM motor would be almost brand new and would go for a long time.

You should call around and price it. Mechanics get discounts that the average consumer doesn't get. They get em at a discount and make their profit.

 

Have you looked at the prices for JDM F22A engines lately? Easy $800-$1000+ shipping.

The JDM F22B's are cheaper @ $400-$600. Get your hands on an OBD1 Non VTEC F22b and it will pretty much drop right in.