Okay this is my second time making a post trying to figure out my problem, just recently my afrs have been jumping around all over the place and I haven't changed anything, here is some info on the engine, b16a full swap, Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, Arp headstuds, dsm 450, eBay fpr, hks bov, tial wg, 57/63 turbo, skunk 2 exhaust, Hondata s100.. okay I'll start from the beginning, I'll start my car and it will idle at 14.7, fuel pressure at around 45 on the filter once I start driving afr quickly drops to to 10.0 in vacuum, if Im at 10 vacuum on the boost gauge the wideband will start blinking 10.0 if I go into boost, say 1psi afr jumps to 12.5 wot it jumps around from 12.2 - 13.5 always ends up on the leaner side if I reach full boost which is 8 psi. Sometimes when crusing for a long period at a steady rpm at 10.0 afr the check engine light will pop on and stay on until I reset the car, it doesn't change afrs at all though, another thing is very rarely it will cruise at 13.0 afr and feel like it did when I got the car and then fall back to 10.0.. Does anyone know what the problem could be, the car was built and tuned by whites import automotive 5 years ago, I am the second owner and when I first got the car 6 months ago it ran flawless. Beautiful afrs crusing and wot, only thing I fixed was wg leak. Sorry for the wall of text but this issue needs to be resolved soon and I can't find an answer online.

 

When crusing it feels as if it's hesitating, almost as if the motor is jerking back and fourth

 

sounds like the tune needs some adjusting. where do you live ? any recent temp changes ?

 

Florida and nothing to drastic

 

Nobody had a clue what it could be?

 

doesnt need to be drastic to throw the tune off. as soon as the ecu starts reading from a lower cell in the air temp corrections it can change the tune quite a bit is its not scaled properly

 

It was doing it before it got cold here

 

After changing $300 worth of parts with no answers, I took hids out and put stock lights back in and it runs like a champ, boy do I feel stupid.

 

??? low voltage on the injectors or something?

 

sounds like the ballasts were grounding internally or something of that nature

 

Looks like I lied, car drove like a dream for 30 miles, changed oil and went to drive again and same **** started again, 10.0 crusing, 13.0 in boost )))):

 

what about tps? may have a worn "open" spot in it.

 

In your last thread, didnt you say the battery light was on? Also, when the CEL comes on, rather than resetting it, check to see what the CEL is for by checking the code. What are you running for a map sensor?

 

Map...

 

Stock map

 

Sounds very sensor-based imo. Do you have a live readout you can scan while you drive? I'm betting something is skewing voltages.

 

I'm running Hondata s100 for the record, and I dont have a live readout, I'm going to change my map sensor tomorrow and see what happens

 

Wait for the CEL to come back on and see what its for. Prolly gonna lead you to your answer.

 

It rarely does it, I don't know how to trigger it, it has only happened a couple of times, how do you check the code?

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

Also, didnt you say your battery light is on?

 

This is a really really random thought, but I recently faced a similar issue with my car running like crap for no apparent reason- my tuner had just sent me a map in which he turned "closed loop" on for the first time to see how the engine reacted to it, and once that happened, the car would intermittently run great and then run super rich and break up really bad and it seemed the tune was being thrown way off for some reason.... long story short, under certain conditions, for some unknown reason, my ALTC control was being kicked on, killing the alternator, dropping voltage from 14.4 to 12.5 or less, and with the loss in voltage, the car was unable to run the way it was intended- WAY rich and sputtering... While your problem may not specifically be the same issue I had, 1-it is always a possibility, and 2- it could still be a voltage related problem elsewhere in the car....I am using s300 though, so i just turned ALTC "off".... I hope this info helps, and good luck with the troubleshoot.

 

Yes battery light has been on since I got the car

 

Okay I've read how to check the cel but would it work while the car is already on? Because it will only pop on while driving and once I turn the key off it disappears

 

Yes you can jump the SCS connector while the car is on and read the codes.

 

When I try to jump it the cel just turns off, no flashes