So I'm having an issue with my car that I cannot seem to trace down the cause and needing some "fresh eyes" on the matter.

Car / Engine Specs first.

It is a '97 Ex coupe with a 2.0 sleeved GSR block, 9:5 comp with a JDM b16 port and polished head, (stock cams used) fully upgraded valve train. It is boosted with a Precision GT35r and 18PSI max boost currently. A 68mm skunk2 TB and old school skunk2 IM is being used and the map sensor is Hondata 4bar. Hondata S300J is my ecm. Fuel delivery is via a Walbro 255 in tank and Bosch 044 under the hood. This ENTIRE engine was built AND tuned by RLZ Engineering.

Symptoms:

First signs that someone was wrong was while I was driving uphill and noticed a "stumble" for a split second. I was in 5th and cruising at 55-60mph (similar to a fuel cut via safety setting tuned into hondata when the engine is not warm enough)

The problem quickly escalated within a few days to this... while driving...the engine would lose almost total power. I could keep my gas pedal in the same throttle position or push it to WOT and the car would persist to slow and nearly die...then would take off like a bat out of hell. Keep in mind I DID NOT have to go WOT for this to happen. (I was testing to see response from the engine)
Along with this issue, the car also decided it would completely stall out while driving. I would have to roll start and feed it gas to continue to drive. This went from a one time occurrence to the point of multiple times within less than a 1/2 mile drive around the block. (again, I was testing symptoms)

Now, I dare not even attempt to drive my car since the engine will now get to right around 150 Degrees and shut itself off. ( + / - 8 degrees here) It will not start at all until it has cooled back down completely. (it does try to start but to no avail )

The car starts up nearly like stock (for it being heavily modified engine) and idles smoothly at around 1100 rpm. No hick-ups , blurping or galloping while at idle. (yes i know the idle is slightly high but i have had a total of 4 dizzy's on this car recently so I have not dialed back in the newest and current dizzy yet via digital timing light)

My testing / replacement of parts:

I first thought of the coil or icm. I replaced both / swapped around known working dizzy's. Tested the coils and icms as well. Eventually replaced the entire dizzy with a new one. (did that today) cap and rotor button are good as well.

plug wires and plugs are good. (plugs are changed every 3k miles along with oil and filter)

I have also tested the MAP and TPS as well.

Monitored the entire engine via Hondata interface. Nothing appears out of the normal.

I monitored the fuel mapping table and saw no discrepancies ( i do read slightly lean but I do not have the dizzy fully in time this moment and atmospheric pressure / humidity is bonkers in my area right now)

Both fuel pumps are in correct working order.

Main relay is working like a champ (i even de-soldered and re-soldered the pins to make sure)

All fuses were found to be in good order

All grounds are solid and free from corrosion

gas is at 1/4 tank of 93 octane currently (no cheap "mom n pops" gas used)

I completely erased my ecu and re-loaded my tune (even had Howard from RLZ email me his copy of my tune just in case my copy was corrupted somehow)

I then erased my ecu again, loaded a stock b16 tune and hooked up my ecu into my friend's Si to test to see if the ecu was bad and not hondata. His car ran like a champ. no issues what-so-ever.

I erased , re-loaded my tune...back in my car went the ecu.

And this brings me to posting here. While i have spent hours on end trying to get an answer via online, I have yet to find someone with my kind of set up with my same problem. My brain is currently "mush" and some expertise elsewhere is very greatly appreciated!

 

And why is it NOT in time?

 

The current Dizzy (put on just 3 hrs ago) is not in time due to the fact that the car had this issue BEFORE I ever removed the original dizzy from it. Every dizzy both in correct timing and non correct timing, has cut off around the same temp. The magic number today when it cut of was 153 degrees.

 

update: car is running / driveable again. Timing was set ( 16 degrees as by my tune is made for) The original problem remains of ignition related cutting out while driving. It still happens at random. There is not replicating it exactly. It will cut out anywhere from a split second to upwards of 2 seconds. It does this under normal cruising speeds (both high rpm and lower rpm) It also will do it with OR without positive pressure from the turbo. I had it cut out at just 2 psi of boost and it also turned around and went to full 18 psi boost no problem. Keep in mind it does NOT have to have any boost to it for it to cut out. ( was simply testing to see if it was boost related).
I datalogged the issue and found that only the VSS is un-affected. (since it's mechanically driven) Everything else ( tps, injectors, duty cyl, etc) "flat-lines" when the car cuts out momentarily.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated so I can get the car back to 100% working order.