So I have been working on this car for a while and got it down to this one issuse where i can get fuel all the way up to the injectors but never into the engine. I bought the car in not running condition and swaped so i dont know if the injectors are bad and highly doubt that all four would go bad. We also got the car to run when we blasted fuel in the intake hole.
Any help would be great.

 

does it crank? are you getting spark? any check engine lights?

 

resistor box. does your harness have one? google it.

 

What ECU are you using?
Does the fuel pump prime?
Does the check engine light flash on for 2 seconds when you first turn the key to the II position?
Have you checked that all of your grounds are good?
What wire harness are you using and have there been any mods to it?
What year H22 injectors are you using? in other words, are they High Impedance or low?


Buying a swapped car that doesn't run is just asking for electrical and mechanical nightmares. You will no doubt have a few sleepless nights trying to figure out what the other person has done during this swap. I have personally seen some really fucked up swaps. And this is a pretty easy swap in terms of engine swaps. Some people just like to **** things up for no reason. Hopefully you didn't buy a complete hack job.....

 

Ohh ya it runs when we blast fuel into the intake hole and it is a p13 ecu not sure if I have all grounds and we have fuel all the way up to the injectors wich are stock kei hin fuel injectors and ya the engine light clicks on for a few seconds then goes off and back on solid when it is in (II) key click.

I dont know what wire harness it is usueing but it has the external coil mod done to it aswell..

 

i'm telling you, you need a resistor box for H22 injectors.

 

93 accords already have a resistor box.

OP, you need to reverify what kind of injectors you are using. If they are obd2 then they aren't going to work and the ecu could have burned out by not using the correct injectors with an obd1 ecu. I'm assuming you have an obd1 ecu.

 

Low Impedance injectors would still run if it didn't have a resistor box. and Saturated injectors would run with a resistor box. Just not for a long duration. Over time ether the ECU drivers or the injector coils would overheat.

I'm with Holmes.... Check the resistance of your injectors, they are ether;
Low impedance (peak and hold) with 2-3Ohms of resistance
High impedance (saturated) with 11-13Ohms of resistance

Once you know what injectors you have. You will know if you have to use the stock Accord resistor box or not.


On another note:
OP,
Where you say the check engine light comes on solid. I would suggest retrieving the diagnostic trouble code(s) from the ECU. Not sure how hacked up the wiring is, however there should be a green or blue two pin connector in the passenger side foot well. It is usually found behind the side kick panel.

Even though the title says how to check codes for a 96, the procedure is the same for all 90-97 Accords. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-check-codes-96-accord-2301560/

 

What would be the best way to check the resistance of the fuel injectors?? Also if the ecu had burnt out on the fuel injectors how would i know it is just the ecu and not bad injectors because the car essentialy runs just not correctly and when we tested the power wire to one injector we had about 11 read on a volt meter.

 

When you say it runs but not correctly, what's up there? You said in your first post that you couldn't get fuel from the injectors at all and that it would only run if you sprayed starter fluid into the intake. In that case the engine would only run for a short time and then not at all..... that's not what I would consider running incorrectly. I consider that a no start issue.

You really should check the stored codes on the P13 ECU before you go swapping out parts based on hunches.

On another note did you, or the person who swapped the engine, happen to swap the ECU pin A11 with ECU pin A6? If you, or the person who did the swap, did not do this you would have an engine that ran poorly at idle, if it would start at all.

The two pins are for the EGR and the O2 sensor. If the EGR is open all the time at idle the car will stumble and most likely stall.

 

Well the car is now on its third owner first the people who did the swap then the person who i bought it from who said it was running fine then they were working on it and it dident start again which was half the timing was wayyyy off and second the external coil was hooked up backwards. And yes by incorrectly i mean no start but run with fuel shot into it. The wiring job in general looks pritty bad and i have wires that i have no idea where they go or for what reason. I have fixed most of these issues with very little idea what i am doing in the first place for this is my first tuned build. And yes i have fixed the timing and installed the kstuned manual tensioner and left the counter balance belt off due to bolt issues. I'm learning about this car as i go and cant ask the prev owner anything as i lost his number.

 

Get a multimeter and set it to lowest ohms setting and run the leads to both injector prongs after removing the connector.

 

Ok guys thanks for the help so far and good news we got it to start!!!!! and it runs on its own but the ecu throws a error 7 and 22 which are the throttle position sensor and VTEC pressure valve it idles at about 2k and surges roughly but other then that it sounds fairly good and there is an issue with my transmission where I can shift into 1st 3rd and 5th like butter and all engage correctly but when I go to shift into 2nd 4th or reverse its like i'm hitting a wall and when I jam it as far as I can then let out the clutch it grinds. I don't know if its just cooked or the linkage is messed up...

 

Your car will run in limp mode with it throwing vtec pressure switch code.

 

Also I just dug up some info about the transmission problem from what I can read here http://teamzx2.com/threads/31206-Man...4th-or-Reverse I need to replace the bushings on the shifter rod. Any info on how to do that would be great and where I should be looking for the vtec wiring problem would also be great.


@holmes@ What is this limp mode your saying do you mean it will run just not to full potential because of it lacking vtec or are you talking about the surging idle and high idle?

 

Does your H22 have a pressure switch under the VTEC solenoid? The VTEC solenoid and housing is mounted to the right side back of the cylinder head. Right behind/beside the distributor if you are looking at the engine from the passenger side fender.

There should be a VTEC solenoid with a single wire on top. Then if it is an H22 that uses a pressure switch it will be a 2 wire sensor on the same assembly directly under the VTEC solenoid



If you are using one that does not have the 2 wire VTEC pressure switch you will have to ether add one, or do the VTEC pressure switch bypass.

 

If you don't have the vtec oil pressure switch that Ghost shows in his pic, you can pull one from a 94-97 honda accord. They are the same. You might be able to find one at the junkyard. Limp mode means your car will run like crap while it throws a code for vtec pressure switch. You can get a vtec pressure switch wire kit from axidwords ..just do a search on the internet for that name.

 

Ok we worked on it the other day and got the code 7 off now we still get 22 and it appears that i have everything hooked up my vtec pressure switch looks just like ghosts does and then it runs down and routes with what i think is the thermostat set of wires and goes to the ecu. But my oil sensor has like a blue and black wires while my thermostat has a black and green with the black being cut at the end. Ill try to post pictues of what im talking about later..

Also when we took the green black connector from the thermostat unit we switch that with the one that was on the oil pressure switch (black and blue i think) and ran the car and it sounded fairly good and even rev up to 6k sounded allright dont know if the wires were switch on accident but i switched them back without checking for a code and it appears that the black wire to the thermostat is clipped so it dosent ground im guessing..

 

If I were you I would find a new harness, everything will plug in except the vtec, pressure switch knock and IAB's depending on which harness you find (92-93 ex/exr would be the best). If the donor car came from an A6 it would have IABs everything else is gravy, sounds like your chasing a wiring nightmare.

 

My GSR REFUSED to run when my vtec pressure switch got clogged up. did not wanna start nor run at all, I cleaned it and she purred afterwards

 

Ok so the first one shows the wires all connected and the green coming from the Vtec solenoid and going down to join with the wire cluster down to the left and the oil pressure hooked up with 2 dark wires. The second picture shows the end of the wire unit that goes down to a sensor right behind the tube that runs from my radiator so I think that it is a thermostat or something but the end black wire is cut for some reason.. Im not worried about to many more wire issues because its pretty murdered wire wise and as long as it runs correctly I could care less how my wires look so if I cant figure this out ill just straight wire it to the ecu.

 

I thought this wasn't the case on a cb chasis only the cd 94-97. I didn't have to do this on my 90 cb and have no codes but o2 (non existent after swap but have one now) but I don't believe this changed until 1994.


Also Code 7 is for your tps, that would cause the engine to enter limp mode, but would still run, I know this because I drove home without mine hooked up. Is it plugged in? has it been replaced if so it needs to be calibrated properly at 0.5v closed and 4.5v at wide open throttle. I know when I had my swap done the tps was done and for some reason when I went to put a new one on it was 180* out had to put it on upside down in order for it to fit in the slot on the end of the throttle plate shaft. As for code 22 could be a dirty clogged screen if not perhaps the solenoid is bad or the wiring. In order to wire it all you have to do is locate the correct pin on the ecu which is A4, re-pin or properly splice with solder and shrink a shrink tube and attach it to your solenoid.

 

Yeah it is for the 94-95 Accord using a P13 that you have to do this swap....

I seem to get that mixed up now that I haven't worked on a CB in years.....Not many CB's left around my area any more. Most of them have been driven into the ground by kids.