I've gone through many threads similar to my problem but the people just stopped posting after they found the solution so yah.

Car: 2000 civic hatch
Swap: b16a obd1
ecu: virgin p28 and p06

Ive had a d16, b16 and a d15 in this car and now i did another b16. The harness was professionally converted and ive had 0 problems with the last 2 swaps. So i just put in this new b16 and im not getting any spark and the fuel pump is not priming. So im trying to fix one problem at a time so Im trying find out what's wrong with the fuel pump. Also the engine light just stays solid at On (II) so i tried a p06 and p28 and no luck. Here are the steps ive taken so far:

*with a multimeter*
Check Fuse 13 and 44 (both good)
Tried another main relay
Tried another fuel pump
Checked voltage at terminal 5 in the main relay plug (good)
Used a Jumper wire to connect terminal 5 and 4 and the fuel pump came on
Checked volatage at terminal 7 in the main relay plug (good)
Used a Jumper wire to connect terminal 7 and 4 and the fuel pump came on
Checked terminal 3 for continuity (good)

Ecu Socket A & B checked for continuity on:
A26 Good
B2 Jumped to 0.01
A23 Good
A24 Good

(Last week all of them Jumped but i checked again today and they had continuity except for B2)

Ecu Socket A & B checked for voltage on:
A25 Good
B1 Good

Thats about all i've done. All the tests ive done are from all the other threads ive read. Hoping RonJ@HT has the answer as he's helped a lot of people with this problem.

 

Wrong ECUs.

 

That was my 1st thought so i went to teknotic and asked them if its the ecu, he said that a virgin p28 and p06 should at least start the car, it'll be running on the wrong map but it will at least run. They are honda specialists.

 

Just saying. Solid engine light is indicative of problems with the ECU.

Does the fuel pump work if you apply power to it directly?

 

What do you suggest I do? I've seen people running virgin p28's and p06 just until they get em chipped. I will be getting it chipped of course but i just want to make sure the engine runs before i spend any more money. What're the chances of both my ecu's being fried

 

I added a question.

And think about it. The car may start and even run, but you're running a single cam ECU on a DOHC engine. Not correct on any planet.

 

Oh sorry i didnt notice the question, I didnt give power to it directly but here is what i did do:

On the main relay Plug

Used a Jumper wire to connect terminal 5 and 4 and the fuel pump came on

Used a Jumper wire to connect terminal 7 and 4 and the fuel pump came on

 

Check all your grounds. Make sure the one on thermostat housing is connected.

 

Not having continuity to body ground at terminal B2 in the ECU connector would seem to be the main problem. Run a new wire or locate the open and fix it.

With the key in ON(II), if you unplug ECU connectors A and B and then ground ECU connector terminal A7 or A8, does the fuel pump run?

As Marc says, you will also need the correct ECU that matches your engine.